foulded plugs

Hi, all. I just finished my bare bones wiring thanks to loudvox. The engine starts and runs well. However plugs 1 and 2 are fouling. Wet and smells like gas. Exhaust burns your eyes after a minute of running. Compression is 120 lbs in all cylinders. Seems like they are running too rich. I,m not sure where to adjust the carbs for that. It is a 1977KZ1000. The 4 carbs are connected at the top by a metal plate if that helps. Thanks all.

If not already done, would first check for correct service fuel level in float bowls by using the quick and easy clear plastic tube test.

A too high fuel level in an otherwise perfect carb can cause excessively rich mixture resulting in the symptoms as described.

Good Luck!

Measure the voltage at your coils. We have a tech article on coil repowering. Many fouled plugs are attributed to carburetors that are really ignition related. The tech article is on my website under wg's Tech Stuff Index.

Thanks, I will try that.

One thing I did notice this morning. When I turned on the ignation switch I got a "pop" out of the #1&2 exhaust. Seems there was some gas fumes in it. Not sure that helps.

Air Supply.

Would assure ample clean air supply: Clean and properly serviced (not over-oiled) filter. Filter intake not obstructed by shop rag, tool bag, gloves, or anything else.


Ignition - Spark Quality.

Would also visually check spark quality of each plug by removing plugs and holding each against cylinder head while spinning engine over with ignition switch in ON position. With a fat blue spark, the ignition is probably good to go, assuming timing set correctly and properly functioning advancer.

Given adequate voltage to coil primary circuit, the visual inspection of spark quality should help determine whether there's any deficiency between arrival of voltage to coil and spark at business end of spark plug.

Coil > plug wire > plug cap > plug. Any of these connections might be deficient. Old hard deteriorated plug wires might be leaking current. Could perform spray water mist test over ignition wiring with engine running in dark garage (look for spark arcing).

Could also measure ohm readings of coil primary windings (between primary terminals) and between coil secondary windings (between plug caps, and also between ends of plug wires absent plug caps). Aids diagnosing condition of windings.

Also measure ohms of each spark plug cap. Imo, may often get along just fine without the resistor style caps. I am very well pleased with Dyna green coils and Dyna solid metal core plug wires that come with caps already affixed. Using on both bikes, obtained from Z1E.


Compression.

Should also assure adequate compression by testing for psi readings in cylinder combustion chambers.

Imo, easiest to perform with all spark plugs removed, and measuring psi of each cylinder while spinning engine over and holding throttle wide open.

If compression is too low or shows widely divergent readings among cylinders, should check/adjust valve clearances and re-test. Then add teaspoon of oil to each cylinder and re-test, and also perform a leakdown test if necessary to determine source(s) of compression leakage.


Bottom Line.

Even otherwise perfect carbs can't compensate for improper fuel level, deficient clean air supply, weak or improperly timed spark, or too low compression.

Where air supply and ignition and compression and fuel level are all up to specs, and the reported problems persist, it may then be time to address the carbs (cleaning, adjustment, jetting, etc.)


Good Luck!

Everything checks out and I think you are right-time to clean the carbs. It had been sitting a few years. When I first started it the carbs leaked badley than sealed themselves. I guess there is still a problem to justify cleaning Thanks.

Here's a previous thread with some suggestions about carb cleaning.

Click > Some carb cleaning tips

Good Luck!