SO FRUSTRATED - Run away idle
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Re: SO FRUSTRATED - Run away idle
18 Jan 2009 18:49
One other thought. Make sure your choke is working properly.
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- bigkzfan
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Re: SO FRUSTRATED - Run away idle
20 Jan 2009 19:42
sound like an issue my friend had with his xs100 with the run away idle it wound up being the linkage going thru all the carbs was slightly bent...it took him a year and wasted money throwing parts at it before he was ever able to ride it, it had us both stumped..
hello, i own a 1982 kz1000 j model with a 4into1 header and factory air box...
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Re: SO FRUSTRATED - Run away idle
20 Jan 2009 19:47
btw he wound up taking it to a shop and they found the problem...freakin thing runs great now:(
hello, i own a 1982 kz1000 j model with a 4into1 header and factory air box...
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- WBPDX
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Re: SO FRUSTRATED - Run away idle
20 Jan 2009 19:48
Actually, I am starting to suspect the choke as well. I've had very little time to mess with it, I am afraid the garage is just too cold, but I noticed tonight that the sounds from fliping the choke back and forth don't sound right all the time...
I'll quickly cover your suggestions:
- Tried WD40, might have found a link on #1, but the idle is so erratic it is hard to tell.
- Slides ARE moving, cv carbs, diaphrams are all 100% perfect, like new.
- Airbox and filter are there (I'll keep mentioning it until people stop aasking)
- Tried blocking airflow from the start, doesn't seem to make much of a difference, this makes me think it must be drawing air in from elsewhere.
- Checked the linkage\synch and everything is moving properly; I'm hesitant to mess with it too much without a synch gauge.
I'm thinking choke; I'm going to try and check that out tomorrow, and if it is okay, I'll try carb holders, and then go from there...
Of note: after getting WD40 everywhere, it did start to run a little better, so maybe the oil snuck in and slightly lubricated either a slide or one of the choke butterflys? I'm not sure, but it is worth noting.
I'll quickly cover your suggestions:
- Tried WD40, might have found a link on #1, but the idle is so erratic it is hard to tell.
- Slides ARE moving, cv carbs, diaphrams are all 100% perfect, like new.
- Airbox and filter are there (I'll keep mentioning it until people stop aasking)
- Tried blocking airflow from the start, doesn't seem to make much of a difference, this makes me think it must be drawing air in from elsewhere.
- Checked the linkage\synch and everything is moving properly; I'm hesitant to mess with it too much without a synch gauge.
I'm thinking choke; I'm going to try and check that out tomorrow, and if it is okay, I'll try carb holders, and then go from there...
Of note: after getting WD40 everywhere, it did start to run a little better, so maybe the oil snuck in and slightly lubricated either a slide or one of the choke butterflys? I'm not sure, but it is worth noting.
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- Kawickrice
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Re: SO FRUSTRATED - Run away idle
20 Jan 2009 19:56
If wd 40 smoothed it out try carb cleaner (more volatile than wd) use the little straw and spray small amounts. you will hear the idle swing.
73 Kawasaki Z1
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82 Suzuki GS 1100
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07 HD CVO Ultra Classic
82 Suzuki GS 1100
74 Yamaha RD 350 (My two stroke toy)
77 Kawasaki KZ 650B-1 (My putt around bike)
80 Indian Moped (My American Iron)
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75 Suzuki GT550
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Tampa FL
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- wiredgeorge
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Re: SO FRUSTRATED - Run away idle
21 Jan 2009 06:36
Replace the carb holders. Never Never try to fix cracks. If there are cracks, they are too hard to seal correctly anyway.
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Last edit: 16 Jun 2009 19:33 by JMKZHI.
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- WBPDX
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Re: SO FRUSTRATED - Run away idle
21 Jan 2009 19:18
Okay, so just to clarify, the spark is better than Okay, it is extremely strong. It throws fat blue sparks in a moderately well lit garage. I have also checked all the connections, and the only one remotely loose, I have re-done.
Tonight I found the choke is perfectly fine.
I'm betting everything on the carb holders I guess...
To clarify the cracks were very small, just under the bolt caps, and I didn't expect to ride the bike with RTV over the cracks; it was simply to see if it made a difference (which it didn't.)
Tonight I found the choke is perfectly fine.
I'm betting everything on the carb holders I guess...
To clarify the cracks were very small, just under the bolt caps, and I didn't expect to ride the bike with RTV over the cracks; it was simply to see if it made a difference (which it didn't.)
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Re: SO FRUSTRATED - Run away idle
21 Jan 2009 19:20
Also, I am not going to spray carb cleaner because:
A- It breaks down plastics\rubber
B- It will eat the engine paint
C- It is very flammable, and the bike is 'stuck' in a small garage right now. I can't take any chances.
A- It breaks down plastics\rubber
B- It will eat the engine paint
C- It is very flammable, and the bike is 'stuck' in a small garage right now. I can't take any chances.
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Re: SO FRUSTRATED - Run away idle
21 Jan 2009 20:55
ok if you don't want to use carb cleaner try a spray bottle full of water it wont allow it to rev up instaed it will kill the cylinder that is leaking my self if i'm trying to find an air leak fast there is no better product than ether or starting fluid as some people call it just keep your hand over the kill switch if the air leak is really bad with that product you will find the problem fast.
1973 z1 2-1974z1-a,2-1975z1-b dragbikes1015cc+1393cc, 1977kz1000,1978kz1000,1981kz1000j, 1997 zx-11, 2000 z12r,1428turbo nitrous pro-mod and a shit load of parts thats all for now leader sask.,CANADA
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- Steveo
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Re: SO FRUSTRATED - Run away idle
23 Jan 2009 09:24
I had the uncontrollable revving problem on my 440 a couple of years ago. The rubbber carb boots were cracked in a few places so I tried to seal them...no dice, I ended up buying new ones, it helped a lot. I feel your pain.
1982 kz440A
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- WBPDX
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Re: SO FRUSTRATED - Run away idle
23 Jan 2009 21:37 - 23 Jan 2009 21:39
So, I discovered a bad\questionable wire. The bike now has all new Accel wires, and brand new plugs to match.
No change, just smoother when running away.
I sprayed WD40, and then water all over everything again, trying to change a cylinder. No dice.
I thought maybe I was overflowing, as I saw what looked like gas inside the airbox, maybe like it had previously overflowed into the airbox, but things were a little 'moist' so I still considered it, even though using the clear tube method the float levels are dead on.
So I adjusted the floats to close slightly sooner (tighter?)
I carefully inspected all the boots\holders - NO problems. The cracks I mentioned earlier are very surface-level, don't go all the way through.
Now the bike is even worse, it just runs away instantly upon 'starting.'
I'm going crazy with this effing bike.
No change, just smoother when running away.
I sprayed WD40, and then water all over everything again, trying to change a cylinder. No dice.
I thought maybe I was overflowing, as I saw what looked like gas inside the airbox, maybe like it had previously overflowed into the airbox, but things were a little 'moist' so I still considered it, even though using the clear tube method the float levels are dead on.
So I adjusted the floats to close slightly sooner (tighter?)
I carefully inspected all the boots\holders - NO problems. The cracks I mentioned earlier are very surface-level, don't go all the way through.
Now the bike is even worse, it just runs away instantly upon 'starting.'
I'm going crazy with this effing bike.
Last edit: 23 Jan 2009 21:39 by WBPDX.
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