TOPIC:

I've got a 1980 KZ750G1 (twin Ltd) and a 1979 KZ750B4 (twin std).

I looked close at the 1980 mikuni's and couldnt see a part designation, I looked at Buy Kawasaki (assy parts differ) but pics of the 79 look like the 80's in hand.

Are they the same?

godsjester71 wrote:

I've got a 1980 KZ750G1 (twin Ltd) and a 1979 KZ750B4 (twin std).

I looked close at the 1980 mikuni's and couldnt see a part designation, I looked at Buy Kawasaki (assy parts differ) but pics of the 79 look like the 80's in hand.

Are they the same?

For what it's worth...
The '79 carb assy part #: 16001-1019
The '80 carb assy part #: 16001-1187

Diaphragms and covers are differnt part #s... and the starter body (choke), and the pilot adjustment screw... and the main jet screw... and the choke levers... and there's an o-ring in the '80 pilot screw.

Pretty much the same, except for minor changes in my opinion....

i figured i would ask my question here in oreder not to junk up the forum, i have a '77 kz750b2 and was wondering if there's any new carbs options that would work, i rebuilt mine, but i'm still pretty freaked out by the float levels and unsure of there performance, (they might not be all they can be) so i would kinda like to just buy whole new carbs if possible

I know nothing about replacement carbs, but I think I can help get you un-freked-out about float levels. Talk to me.... How have you *been* trying to set the float level? Maybe I can make some suggestions to help....

Check out the carbs on the bike pictured (it belongs to smithgpz, another member), I think he told me they were mikunis and he paid ~$400 for them new.

well i did all the reading i could do on these carbs, printed out some procedures, because i rebuilt the carbs, and performance was just OK and i read about how the float levels were really important, SO, one of my floats were kinda pinched as if done on purpose, and although i had instructions, measuring the floats seemed totally unaccurate and unsure, maybe i'll just send them to wired george

Post edited by: cratgo, at: 2006/02/26 13:55

cratgo wrote:

...and although i had instructions, measuring the floats seemed totally unaccurate and unsure...

I have found that float levels are VERY important. Just 1 or 2mm can make a big difference.

I did alot of reading about this and ultimately found a method that somebody here posted that worked for me:

With the carbs off, flip them upside down, remove the float-bowls, and measure the distance from the bowl-gasket surface to the "bottom" of the floats (of course, now that they are upside-down, they are the highest point of the carbs from the earth).

I have tried this a few different times and I think I have it ready for summer at an un-tested 25mm (it was at 26/27mm last fall, and needed a tweak).

I know this isn't the "right" way, but it works really well for me. Some minor accomodation could be granted for the "pinch" in the float, but I wouldn't sweat it (mine has one too, and I don't notice any effect from it).

On the other hand, if you want to send 'em to George, by all means do. He has a great reputation here.

What year was there a change over in twin carbs? Any advantage to the newer carbs?

The reason that I'm asking is that I have a tworn diaphram on my 77, along with the pv stripping out the float bowl screws. I was thinking that it might be best to just get a new (used) set of carbs. Opinions? Or should I just get a diaphram for my carb (I assume that I have to get one from a 77, or would other years interchange?)

I think I still have a spare carb diaphram in the garage that came off a 77, and I might even have a spare carb body (but I'd need to know which side).

pistolpete wrote:

What year was there a change over in twin carbs? Any advantage to the newer carbs?

The reason that I'm asking is that I have a tworn diaphram on my 77, along with the pv stripping out the float bowl screws. I was thinking that it might be best to just get a new (used) set of carbs. Opinions? Or should I just get a diaphram for my carb (I assume that I have to get one from a 77, or would other years interchange?)

I have a couple sets of carbs, I think from different years, and I don't really notice a difference. I have a parts reference software, so if you have specific years and parts I can check.

As for the stipped float bowls screws, I just followed WiredGeorge's advice and got a "Recoil" kit to re-thread the screw holes. It was Soooooper-easy once I got the kit. And now I have it for when it happens again... and it will...

HIJACK!!

Anyways, I am completely confused on the carbs, I looked at buy kawasaki, and the 76-78 carbs appeared to be the same, then in 79-800 some carbs had the different diaphrams, some had the older ones.??.

Currently the sheet metal screws are on both carb bodies, and they are much larger than the stock screws, completely stripping out any of the old threads. It doesn't leak right now, but to fix it I would have to tap new threads, and I do not feel warm and fuzzy with it like that.

What I really want to know is:
What years (of twins) had different carbs?
Should I get a different set of carbs?
If sticking with my B2 mikunis, should I change out some of the parts to later model parts?

Thanks for patience and a lil history

I think that in 79 Kawasaki leaned out the mixture on the twins to meet EPA requirements, I know that the 750 twins did not get air injection until the 82 model (there was no 81). The diaphrams will interchange from 76-80, and I think most of the other parts will also. I think it is probably best to use all the parts from one particular year though, carb bodies from anu year bi=ut all the other parts from one year model.

I had 77, 78, and 80 carbs all disassembled in a box because I mistakenly assumed they were the same, I assembled one set of carbs using the best parts that were in the box and I had the carbs off the bike a dozen times until I finally got the right combination of parts to work. I learn from my mistakes and I can assure you that I will never do that again

Post edited by: steell, at: 2006/03/03 18:02