TOPIC:

I was wondering if anyone else had advice on adjusting the brass nut at the end of the rod that pulls on the Accelerator Pump arm. The Clymer manual suggests 10.9mm from the top of the threaded rod to the top of the brass nut. This is impossible on my carbs without using a die to add more thread since there is not enough thread. Do I have a different model than the book refers to?

I like having the nut backed off quite a bit since this seems to allow the pump jets to work over a longer duration of throttle, thus fattening up what I would suspect to be a somewhat leaner factory setting. Is this recommended?

If I am thinking of the same nut you are thinking of I would not touch that nut. If is factory set and if I am correct, trying to move that nut can break the whole screw since it was permanantly put at the setting. I didn't even know that a 1000 had a accelerator pump

Yea the 79-80 KZ1000 used the pump carbs, but shaft was a whole different set of carbs than the chain model. I think the setting was about 4mm on the shaft, but it's been a long time. Clymer no doubt gives the setting for the chain model. This is what the shaft drive carbs look like. The choke lever is straight unlike any other Kawasaki that angle up.

Lordy! Clymer strikes again! Someone writes something in a Clymer and it stays there FOREVER wrong... no feedback mechanism and no double check, near as I can tell.

The brass "nut" should be about 4mm as suggested. You can't set it at 11mm as suggested by Mr. Clymer. What you need to do is push your airbox back if you can and LOOK in the venturi of #4 carb (you can do it OFF the bike if you fill the bowls with gas). Twist the throttle with the nut up to about 4mm... make sure the spring is on the shaft because it adds tension to the nut and if it is missing, the nut will eventually just back off and get lost. Anyway, with your eyeball in the #4 venturi, twist the throttle. When first filled with gas, the #4 pump squirt will be the last to send a squirt into the venturi... first the #2 carb will squirt, then the 1 and 3 and last #4. Anyway, twist the throttle a number of times and ensure gas is squirting out the pump squirter in the middle of your venturi. It is the 3/4" long little tube that sticks up. It has a small atomizing hole pointed towards the combustion chamber.

If you don't see gas squirt, check back as it is often a pain to make the pump work proper... And the adjustment is about the same for the pump on the 24, 26 and 28 and smoothbores fitted with a pump.

Yeah...I just adjusted mine too. I just kept backing off the little brass nut until there was a .001 gap between the flat arm that the rod pulls up and the pump diaphram. Then I tightened it just enough to do away with the gap.

Works great and sprays a lot of fuel into the carb. I also used CLEAR fuel tubing between each carb so I can watch it work. Twist the throttle a bunch of times and you can see the lines fill.

Bob

Wow! Thanks everyone. I've been following this site for a while but only recently joined in. It's great to actually hear from the famous (or infamous wiredgeorge. Time to add pictures etc. I'm working with the carbs off the bike and when filled with gas the pump and venturis work fine as I have just been through and cleaned the carbs out. I'll set it at 4mm then and see how it goes...

Also, I had a hard time with the tiny clips that hold the servicable check valve (small chrome ball and weight)that are in each float bowl. I left these clips out and assembled the set making sure they didn't fall out. I assume these clips are merely to avoid loosing the parts upon disassembly, but then again, when I assume I make an ASS out of U and ME. Haha.

PS: My carbs look just like the ones in the picutre above.

The little clips must be in place... there is a small indentation around the edge of the well where they sit... use some needlenose pliers and get them in the well then push them down into the indentation with a small screwdriver of something to seat them in the indentation. The clips hold the check valve in place... if the check valve, consisting of a little barrel piece and a ball are not there, the carb will overflow... Unlike many other 79 KZ1000E1 owners (I have one too), I don't use accelerator pump carbs. I find that VM26 without a pump are better suited to the shafty's engine characteristics... the 26s make better mid-range power which is where the shafty lives most of the time. I seldom get the bike to 7K rpm where the 28s will make more power (7K and above). Attached is a pic of my 79 with some ugly ol' fella standing behind it.

Post edited by: wiredgeorge, at: 2007/06/14 08:30

To Ebay it is, then! Thanks wiredgeorge!

If you go with the 26's watch your jet sizes. Mine is in a major rebuild right now and the 28's they will go back on the bike but this E1 isn't going to be anything near a tourer when done. It will be fast enough for most street riding with the 26's but if you like to twist it you will find the "wall" much too soon.

If you stay with the 28's then set the carbs to factory stock setting as shown on the factory manual. Clymer is only good for photos, their instructions are always to be treated as suspect. Put the retainers back in the ball checks, make sure they rattle a little when you shake the bowl, replace the diaphragm in the pumper, have all the passage ways cleared and it will do what it is supposed to do.

The little brass nut that you speak of came off mine yesterday while riding. Any idea where I could find one?