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Pilot Jets 08 May 2007 09:33 #138186

  • NomadicLTD
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Hello all,

I have a couple questions and rather than the normal trial and error (error part is winning) I figured I would ask. I have a 1980 KZ1000 LTD.
I added 4 into 1 pipes and pod air filters, should I get bigger than stock pilot jets as well as main jets?
And is it ok to clamp Dyna coils to the frame instead of using the mounting bracket? Thanks for the help.

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Pilot Jets 08 May 2007 10:44 #138205

  • Patton
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Absent knowing about any possible previous jet modifications, believe spark plug reading would be a good place to start. Suggest highway speed throttle chop test to help determine best main jet sizing. Pilot jets may be okay if idle and lower throttle performance is satisfactory, and then might improve by cleaning. Should also check for proper service fuel level in float bowls. Clamps or tie-wraps are okay for attaching coils (but they are supposed to fit the stock mounting tabs). Just my 2 cents. :)
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD

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Pilot Jets 08 May 2007 12:10 #138240

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The jets were all stock, I read several threads that said if pipes and pods were added to increase the main jet, so I did. I was just wondering if the pilot jet needed to be larger as well. I can not get the bike to idle so I can't set the timing to read the plugs. I have cleaned the jets multiple times and it didn't seem it help.
The coils do fit the stock mounting brackets but that puts the spark plug connectors right agianst the frame so I just wanted alittle more room or avoid rubbing should I ever get around to riding the bike. thanks

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Pilot Jets 08 May 2007 14:13 #138284

  • tjettim
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Some coils need to be grounded.
The mounts can be shimmed out
with steel washers,if it will
clear the tank.The 79 and 80
carbs were alot harder to jet.
I believe there are metal caps
over the air screws that have
to be pryed out.Some were only
1/8 to 1/4 turn open.Need to be
1 1/2.17.5 pilots and 130 -135
mains will put you close.At least
at my elevation (MI.)

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Pilot Jets 08 May 2007 14:43 #138298

  • wiredgeorge
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Two part question... mount the coils in the stock mounting position. Why clamp to the frame? Where on the frame is a better spot than the mount brackets welded up under the tank?

Timing? Did you install a Dyna S? If you have a stock IC Igniter ignition, I can't imagine a whole lot of timing occuring. The pickup coil plates mount holes are not slotted so you can't rotate the plate and the pickup coil positions are fixed as memory serves. If you have a new Dyna S, they provide static timing directions and you can view the directions online on their website as all their directions are posted in .pdf form.

The 28 pump carbs are not all that fussy. The problem is, if you bump the pilot sizes and the pump is working properly, you can get a little rich. I would go with #17.5 pilots... adjust the air mix screws at idle for max idle speed on each carbs... turn the idle back down after each adjustment. The OEM main is #102.5 so don't bump the main up to much more than #112.5... that will be plenty big. With that size main, you should be able to pull redline.
wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
Mico TX
www.wgcarbs.com
Too many bikes to list!

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Pilot Jets 08 May 2007 16:32 #138334

  • NomadicLTD
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The coils(Dyna's) when in the stock postion cause the spark plug wires to rub on the frame, it is a tight enough fit that I have to put the wires on the coils then bolt down the coils.
I have the Dyna s ignition and did the static timing but am still getting alot of backfiring and it will not idle with the choke off. thanks for all the help.

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Pilot Jets 09 May 2007 06:26 #138483

  • wiredgeorge
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To time the Dyna S you really need a timing light. Make sure you have the thing wired properly to start with. They use a black and white wire for the pickup coils but have little plastic bands on the wires (black and green) to tell you that the black band is for the 1/4 coil and green is for the 2/3 coil. Last, there is a black rotor that fits on your stock mechanical advance. This rotor has ONE magnet which provides the signal to the pickups as it rotates past the pickups. Recheck to see if the rotor is installed correctly as it will cause the ignition to misbehave if it is installed 180 degrees out. I think you put the engine at TDC for 1/4 and orient the magnet at about 9 Oclock but I would definitely recheck that with there instructions. The magnet is painted over but is an indentation about the size of a pencil eraser you can see on the outside of the rotor if you look closely... ok if the install is OK, let's look at timing the thing.

Get an inductive timing light. This means that the light is a strobe with a pickup that clips OVER a plug wire. Start the engine and warm it if you can. Timing should be done at idle but if you have to turn the idle up with the idle knob on the carbs, that is OK as you can recheck it after we are done and are able to turn the idle speed down if it doesn't want to idle at this point.


OK, engine is warm, now put the alligator clips on the battery to power the light and the inductive clip over the #4 plug wire. Loosen the 3 phillips mount screws for the plate. At idle, the mark on the case should align with the mark next to the F on your advance. If it doesn't rotate the plate till it does and once you have the marks lining up, stop the engine and tighten the three screws. 1/4 are timed.

OK, move the inductive pickup to #3 plug wire and start the engine. Essentially, the two pickups must be 180 degrees apart so the firing can take place at the right time. The timing mark next to the F for the 2/3 cylinders should line up with the mark on the case. It won't so you will need to loosen the two small screws that retain the RIGHT pickup. There are at least three small washers on the pickup and it is sometimes helpful to remove a washer on each mount screw to allow it to be moved easier. Anyway, slide the pickup coil up and down a tad and see if you can get the 2/3 F timing mark to line with the mark on the case. If you can, good; shut it down and tighten the two little socket head bolts that hold the pickup coil.

Sometimes you can't get the 2/3 timed because you run out of slot to slide the pickup coil. If this is the case, you can move the 1/4 pickup coil in the opposite direction and retime it using the same procedure as you did initally and THEN set the timing on 2/3. Remember that the pickups must be 180 away from each other and I suspect Dyna just sticks the pickup coils on any old place so the 1/4 may be towards the end of its adjustment as far as the small mount screws and may need to be moved to allow you to adjust the 2/3. Hope that made some sense. It ain't that hard once you have done it a few times.
wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
Mico TX
www.wgcarbs.com
Too many bikes to list!

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