TOPIC:

Ok, my brother and I have a 1979 KZ650.
A couple of weeks ago, I cleaned my carbs since the bike was running horrible. I got everything back together, except I noticed the screw on the throttle lever arm in the top of carb #3 is stripped, and I can't adjust it. I put everything back together, and put them back on the bike. The bike started, but it was idling really high (4000-5000 rpms). I figured out it was an air leak between the carbs and the boot between the engine. However, by the time I was able to make it back to his place to fix the air leak and try to start it, it had already been 2 weeks, and I noticed my brother left the choke on.

So now the bike won't start. We changed the spark plugs, charged the battery fully, and we aren't having any luck.

As it stands right now, it looks like the carbs are leaking into the engine, the bike won't start. The oil glass is full.

Here is the question: Should we try to get the rebuild kits and fix these carbs, or just get a new set from wiredgeorge? I calculate that it will cost between $50-70 to fix the throttle arm, and then $50+shipping for the carb rebuilt kits from here: www.partsnmore.com/cat_index.php?model=kz650&category=carb

Sooo, are there other issues that might cost me even more money with these carbs, should I spend the extra money to trade these in for a fresh set from george? Suggestions please!
Thanks!

you will want to totally drain the oil because if the carbs are leaking into the engine the bottom end is probably full of gas(bad). sounds like you have needle and seat or float issues as for the screw , your choice on how to address it. after you drain the oil replace it keep the petcock off and pull the plugs and ground the pugs. you are going to need to turn the engine over to blow the gas out of the cylinders and dry the plugs out

What is the easiest way to ground the plugs?

I just try to start it with the plugs out (after they are grounded)? Should I kick it over or use the electric starter?

katjbus is right, drain all of the oil and gas out of the engine (and replace the oil filter). I wouldn't suggest even trying to start the bike again until this is done.
And the sooner the better, since gas will dilute the oil and prevent all those little metal engine parts that mesh from being lubricated properly.
Plus it will eventually damage the seals, which would create a whole slew of new problems, the least of which would be oil leaks.

I don't believe WG has an inventory of rebuilt carb sets that he simply swaps out, but actually receives carbs sent to him by customers and then sends them back rebuilt/repaired.
I'd suggest checking with him to be certain though.
WG knows his stuff and does really great work from what I've heard, so he might even be able to repair that stripped throttle arm screw for you as well.

DivideOverflow wrote:

What is the easiest way to ground the plugs?

I just try to start it with the plugs out (after they are grounded)? Should I kick it over or use the electric starter?

The easiest way to ground the plugs once they're removed, is to insert them back into the plug caps and place them against the engine.

If you plan on grounding the plugs just to expel the gas out of the cylinders, I highly recommend NOT doing it.
Picture this:
If gas is being squirted/spewed/dribbled out of the cylinders, do you really want to have your spark plugs firing while they're close enough to the engine to possibly ignite that gas?

Not a pretty visual IMHO

RetroRiceRocketRider wrote:

DivideOverflow wrote:

What is the easiest way to ground the plugs?

I just try to start it with the plugs out (after they are grounded)? Should I kick it over or use the electric starter?

If you plan on grounding the plugs just to expel the gas out of the cylinders, I highly recommend NOT doing it.
Picture this:
If gas is being squirted/spewed/dribbled out of the cylinders, do you really want to have your spark plugs firing while they're close enough to the engine to possibly ignite that gas?

Not a pretty visual IMHO

Thats for sure! Wouldnt want to end up like THIS guy......

Should not be to hard to find a functional replacement for the screw. Might take a little grinding, filing, and silver solder.

For carbs without overflow, I like to hook them up on the bench and make sure they are not leaking prior to installing. Q tip and some mild abrasive may be in order if the float needle seat is corroded. If pitted badly it may need replacing.

If the above is a hassle, send 'em out to someone who likes to mess with carbs.

Change oil. Replace filter or rinse it out in kerosene and blow it dry if it's still clean.

Just take your plugs out. By the time you're done with the other stuff, the jugs should be dry inside.

-Duck

Alright, we got the carbs out, emptied the oil and took the spark plugs out... went out to sit on new bikes, then came back and put in fresh oil and just gave it a few kicks to get it all circulated.

I emailed wiredgeorge to see if he recommends sending them in to get reconditioned, getting new ones, or upgrading to the BS34s.

I might be tempted to try and fix the carbs myself, but I'm extremely, extremely busy with school and work, and my brother is just lazy... and we both have very minor experience working with carbs.

I guess we can try, and if they don't work, we can just get new ones... Is anyone running the BS34s on a KZ650? Are there big performance gains with those carbs and pod filters?

Thanks!