TOPIC:

I ran new fuel lines and decided to put 2 fuel filters on. I didnt HAVE to put for neatness I routed the fuel lines and mounted the filters on the frame. The way it worked out the fuel lines run down to the fuel filters but then they loop down and back UP to the carbs. Is gravity going to affect my fuel flow? Do the fuel lines need to stay with a downward tilt to the carbs?

Here's a link, still dont get how to resize pictures

i130.photobucket.com/albums/p244/AR15Ron...orcycle/IMG_0544.jpg

i130.photobucket.com/albums/p244/AR15Ron...orcycle/IMG_0546.jpg

Thanks,

Ron

let's see if I get this now



Post edited by: AR15Ron, at: 2007/03/19 03:37

AR15Ron wrote:

...fuel lines run down to the fuel filters but then they loop down and back UP to the carbs. Is gravity going to affect my fuel flow? Do the fuel lines need to stay with a downward tilt to the carbs?

Should not be a problem at all so long as the "upward" flow remains below fuel level inside the tank. But if needing proof, just remove line at carb and watch gas flow out.

AR15Ron wrote:

.... The way it worked out the fuel lines run down to the fuel filters but then they loop down and back UP to the carbs. Is gravity going to affect my fuel flow? Do the fuel lines need to stay with a downward tilt to the carbs?....

Newton won't get you, but ohm's law might. You better take your roll of electrical tape off that dern battery or it might short something out and cause a dern explosion!
But seriously, the only thing that _is_ an issue, is flow direction. I am talking about fuel flow through the filters, not electrical current flow through the roll of tape.
Be sure the filter outlet is toward the carbs, regardless of whether it is rightside up or upside down; I'm talking about the filters, not the carbs.

Post edited by: JimatMilkyWay, at: 2007/03/19 13:00

Well, the jury is still out if it works or not. I put the tank on and hooked everything up and some fuel went into the filters. All I got was some weak backfiring. I've never run it with these carbs before (it ran with the old ones). It's 25 degrees in my garage though so rather than catch it on fire I decided to wait until it warms up to play anymore! (I did catch it on fire once) Personally, I blame the electrical tape. Not sure how much fuel I should see in the filters, they got maybe 1/2 full but I could see it suckin so it should work I think. I really wanted to hear it run though!

Ron

AR15Ron wrote:

Well, the jury is still out....

Assuming good full fuel flow from petcock and tank cap vent in good working order (or just temporarily left open) and no kinks in fuel line, remove float bowl drain screw on left carb, turn petcock on and watch gas pour out.

AR15Ron wrote:

Well, the jury is still out if it works or not. I put the tank on and hooked everything up and some fuel went into the filters. All I got was some weak backfiring. I've never run it with these carbs before (it ran with the old ones). It's 25 degrees in my garage though so rather than catch it on fire I decided to wait until it warms up to play anymore! (I did catch it on fire once) Personally, I blame the electrical tape. Not sure how much fuel I should see in the filters, they got maybe 1/2 full but I could see it suckin so it should work I think. I really wanted to hear it run though!

Ron

Ron, my experience is that all the air is not likely to purge from the fuel filters and lines. That should not be the problem. You probably could purge the air if you don't like it in there, but as soon as something happens to let a little air back in, you would have to do it again.

Well I tried it today and I came to the conclusion is doesnt work. I had no fuel going to the 2 left side carbs. Removed the filters it fired right up. Tried one filter mounted level sideways and it worked fine. I can't find a way to use these like that so I guess I will have to find some very small filters somewhere. Of course, my problems are just beginning. While it was running I found the headers on the left side were not getting hot. Checked the spark its strong. FChecked the compression its great except for #3, only 32 PSI. I'm currently very depressed...

stuck valve?

don't think it's stuck but I'm hoping it just needs to be re-shimmed.

AR15Ron wrote:

.... FChecked the compression its great except for #3, only 32 PSI. I'm currently very depressed...

OOOH, man that sux. What is your first step to check?
I am faced with similar concerns; same jug. Do you try wet/dry compression check next, or just go straight to the valves.
Also, what actual values on other cylinders did you get? I want to know what kind of variation is common from cylinder to cylinder.

Well I didnt do a dry test because the bike had just been running so I'm sure it was lubed up when I tested it. The consensus so far is the valves. I did find the intake valve on that cylander has no gap whatsoever so I'm hoping that's the problem. IIRC from my boat motor manuals no more than 10 PSI difference should be found between cylanders. My actual readings were 148, 149, 32, 149. So pretty consistant on the other 3. Just waiting for the tools and parts to show up to try the vavle shim thing.

AR15Ron wrote:

Well I didnt do a dry test because the bike had just been running so I'm sure it was lubed up when I tested it. The consensus so far is the valves. I did find the intake valve on that cylander has no gap whatsoever so I'm hoping that's the problem. IIRC from my boat motor manuals no more than 10 PSI difference should be found between cylanders. My actual readings were 148, 149, 32, 149. So pretty consistant on the other 3. Just waiting for the tools and parts to show up to try the vavle shim thing.

Thanks for the info. Mine were not that consistent. Best I remember, I had 124, 139, 89, 125; so a bit more variation. I hoped to pop the valve covers this weekend but it had to wait; honey do's you know.