z750L: Repair starter clutch

I have read trought the document:
KZ 650/KZ750 four starter clutch repair. - KZRider, KZ, Z1 & Z Motorcycle Enthusiast's Forum

I could not catch he was talking about a spesical tool for bearing pulling?
He is mentino that it can be handy to have spesical tool for the main gear clutch (I had one when I replaced the friction plates, but have sold it..)

If I understand correctly, I need to take the bearing out on the right side before I’m able to pull the shaft out?

I don't need to damage the bearing, right?
I found this tool:  Wheel Bearing Removal Kit - Biltema.no
But it requires drilling two holes between the rings...

 

gordone wrote:

I have read trought the document:
KZ 650/KZ750 four starter clutch repair. - KZRider, KZ, Z1 & Z Motorcycle Enthusiast's Forum

I could not catch he was talking about a spesical tool for bearing pulling?
He is mentino that it can be handy to have spesical tool for the main gear clutch (I had one when I replaced the friction plates, but have sold it..)

If I understand correctly, I need to take the bearing out on the right side before I’m able to pull the shaft out?

I don't need to damage the bearing, right?
I found this tool:  Wheel Bearing Removal Kit - Biltema.no
But it requires drilling two holes between the rings... The drilling only relates to "sealed bearings" (you have to drill the seal to remove it) which this isn't


 

Is these correct tool then:
VEVOR Blind Hole Collet Bearing Race and Seal Puller Extractor Kit, Slide Hammer Pilot Insert Inner Internal Bearing Removal Tool Set, 10 Adjustable Collects and Counterstay, 16 PCS | VEVOR UK

???

I can't picture what this looks like—will the shaft be sitting in the hole of the bearing, or will it be empty so that I can pull it out?

gordone wrote:

I have read trought the document:
KZ 650/KZ750 four starter clutch repair. - KZRider, KZ, Z1 & Z Motorcycle Enthusiast's Forum

I could not catch he was talking about a spesical tool for bearing pulling? The only special tool I can see you need is to pull the gear on the clutch side (as far as I can tell you would only need the bearing puller if replacing the "right side" bearing which you don't plan on doing)

He is mentino that it can be handy to have spesical tool for the main gear clutch (I had one when I replaced the friction plates, but have sold it..) For the cost it's best to get a "clutch holder" rather than risk damage to the basket

If I understand correctly, I need to take the bearing out on the right side before I’m able to pull the shaft out? No - the bearing will come out with the shaft (knocked through from the left side) once the gear and bearing retainer are removed

I don't need to damage the bearing, right? Correct
I found this tool:  Wheel Bearing Removal Kit - Biltema.no
But it requires drilling two holes between the rings...



 

You need a "three bolt" puller to remove the gear (OEM parts puller 57001-319 and adaptor 57001-317) the adaptor 57001-317 is available from Partzilla and Johnny's and is cheap (as I understand it the adaptor fits between the puller bolt and the shaft to prevent damage to the shaft) you can use a generic "3 bolt puller like the one below as the OEM one seems to be unavailable. The diagram also shows how the three bolts attach the puller to the gear
EDIT: "note to self" once you have bought tools (clutch holder) hang onto them, you never know when you may need it again and in the long run it's cheaper than buying again 

Thanks! I’ve now ordered the adapter (57001-317) and the Faankiton 21-in-1 Bearing Kit, so I should have the tools I need.?

In the meantime, I’ll remove the exhaust, drain the oil, and take off the clutch plates and housing on the right side. That way, I’ll be ready to open the left side once I receive the tools.
I’ll be working outside in a carport. I was thinking I could just reattach the right and left covers, along with the oil pan, using 2-3 bolts when I’m not working on the bike. Since everything inside is coated in oil, corrosion shouldn’t be an issue?
The bike won’t be exposed to direct rain.
 

I found a serie of videos on Youtube:
1982 Kawasaki 750 Ltd L (Part 8 Starter Clutch: Step 4 Final Step)

He is just tapping out the shaft with a weighted hammer?

 

gordone wrote:

I found a serie of videos on Youtube:
1982 Kawasaki 750 Ltd L (Part 8 Starter Clutch: Step 4 Final Step)

He is just tapping out the shaft with a weighted hammer? Correct - after the gear and bearing retainer has been removed


 

I removed the starter clutch today. I was expecting it to be harder than it was — it only took 2–3 hours.
I can't see any visible damage; the piston looks good as well.
Could it be that the spring has too little tension?

See video:
drive.google.com/file/d/1qJYKXRyiOptssss.../view?usp=drive_link

Photos:

 

More picture, I don’t think it looks bad?



 

Since the piston and spring are not damaged, I'm planning to replace the starter gear, as its surface is not completely even. I will replace the following parts:

1. Starter gear
2. Piston
3. Springs

Do you agree with this approach?Also, there is a lot of play in the clutch hub when I try to move the two plates (see the picture below) away from each other. I assume this is caused by the rubber dampers? There shouldn't be much play, correct?
I've decided to order new dampers on eBay.To remove the old dampers, I believe I need to drill out the rivets (marked in red in the picture).
To reassemble, can I weld the holes where the rivets were and grind the surface flat again?
Or would it be better to use 6 x 20 mm bolts with thin heads instead?

 

Check the housing the springs and rollers run in for wear (if worn the rollers will reach the end of their travel without locking fully)
with the clutch hub, grind the heads off the rivets and weld on re-assembly ( don’t concentrate the heat in one place for too long or you’ll burn the new rubbers) if you search the site you will find pictures where others have done this repair (I can’t do this for you as I am on holiday and only have my phone)

Wookie58 wrote:

Check the housing the springs and rollers run in for wear (if worn the rollers will reach the end of their travel without locking fully)
with the clutch hub, grind the heads off the rivets and weld on re-assembly ( don’t concentrate the heat in one place for too long or you’ll burn the new rubbers) if you search the site you will find pictures where others have done this repair (I can’t do this for you as I am on holiday and only have my phone)

I will check later today, when it comes to welding, If I`m not able to get hold of a person to weld for me, using bolts is working fine also?