KZ750 Four Cam Install Help

This is EXACTLY what mine was doing. You also have the cross wedge tensioner... Are you 100% you have the links counted correctly between the exhaust (0) and 45/46? Are any parts locked on your tensioner or not moving properly? 

That noise is normal.  The cam is going over the top of the lobe nose, then jumping forward due to valve spring tension.  

Double check the valve timing, both at the crank (1-4T aligned), and the marks on the cam sprockets, and if all looks okay, put the crank at at 1-4 TDC, remove the tensioner spring, and pull back the wedge, and put the valve cover back on.  Once the cover is on, put the tensioner spring and wedge back in and rotate again.  The noise you are hearing should be much less, or it will be entirely gone.

Nessism wrote:

That noise is normal.  The cam is going over the top of the lobe nose, then jumping forward due to valve spring tension.  

Double check the valve timing, both at the crank (1-4T aligned), and the marks on the cam sprockets, and if all looks okay, put the crank at at 1-4 TDC, remove the tensioner spring, and pull back the wedge, and put the valve cover back on.  Once the cover is on, put the tensioner spring and wedge back in and rotate again.  The noise you are hearing should be much less, or it will be entirely gone.

So I did as you mentioned above, sound is still present for sure. It seems slightly less noisy, but guessing that is from the cover being re-installed.

SnyperX wrote:

Nessism wrote:

That noise is normal.  The cam is going over the top of the lobe nose, then jumping forward due to valve spring tension.  

Double check the valve timing, both at the crank (1-4T aligned), and the marks on the cam sprockets, and if all looks okay, put the crank at at 1-4 TDC, remove the tensioner spring, and pull back the wedge, and put the valve cover back on.  Once the cover is on, put the tensioner spring and wedge back in and rotate again.  The noise you are hearing should be much less, or it will be entirely gone.

So I did as you mentioned above, sound is still present for sure. It seems slightly less noisy, but guessing that is from the cover being re-installed.

Sorry, man, something doesn't seem right.  That chain snatch should go away with the valve cover installed, and the cam chain tensioner working correctly.  Did you back off the set screw after installing the wedge and spring?  

Nessism wrote:

SnyperX wrote:

Nessism wrote:

That noise is normal.  The cam is going over the top of the lobe nose, then jumping forward due to valve spring tension.  

Double check the valve timing, both at the crank (1-4T aligned), and the marks on the cam sprockets, and if all looks okay, put the crank at at 1-4 TDC, remove the tensioner spring, and pull back the wedge, and put the valve cover back on.  Once the cover is on, put the tensioner spring and wedge back in and rotate again.  The noise you are hearing should be much less, or it will be entirely gone.

So I did as you mentioned above, sound is still present for sure. It seems slightly less noisy, but guessing that is from the cover being re-installed.

Sorry, man, something doesn't seem right.  That chain snatch should go away with the valve cover installed, and the cam chain tensioner working correctly.  Did you back off the set screw after installing the wedge and spring?  

Yes, I backed the set screw out. the chain isn't "hopping" on the cam sprocket anymore, but its still making the jerk/hitch motion and noise when hand cranking. You stated that was from the tension in the valve springs as the lobes pass over.

SnyperX wrote:

Nessism wrote:

SnyperX wrote:

Nessism wrote:

That noise is normal.  The cam is going over the top of the lobe nose, then jumping forward due to valve spring tension.  

Double check the valve timing, both at the crank (1-4T aligned), and the marks on the cam sprockets, and if all looks okay, put the crank at at 1-4 TDC, remove the tensioner spring, and pull back the wedge, and put the valve cover back on.  Once the cover is on, put the tensioner spring and wedge back in and rotate again.  The noise you are hearing should be much less, or it will be entirely gone.

So I did as you mentioned above, sound is still present for sure. It seems slightly less noisy, but guessing that is from the cover being re-installed.

Sorry, man, something doesn't seem right.  That chain snatch should go away with the valve cover installed, and the cam chain tensioner working correctly.  Did you back off the set screw after installing the wedge and spring?  

Yes, I backed the set screw out. the chain isn't "hopping" on the cam sprocket anymore, but its still making the jerk/hitch motion and noise when hand cranking. You stated that was from the tension in the valve springs as the lobes pass over.

Yes, I did say that.  Thing is, though, with the chain properly tensioned, and the valve cover installed, there should not be much of any noise.

Nessism wrote:

SnyperX wrote:

Nessism wrote:

SnyperX wrote:

Nessism wrote:

That noise is normal.  The cam is going over the top of the lobe nose, then jumping forward due to valve spring tension.  

Double check the valve timing, both at the crank (1-4T aligned), and the marks on the cam sprockets, and if all looks okay, put the crank at at 1-4 TDC, remove the tensioner spring, and pull back the wedge, and put the valve cover back on.  Once the cover is on, put the tensioner spring and wedge back in and rotate again.  The noise you are hearing should be much less, or it will be entirely gone.

So I did as you mentioned above, sound is still present for sure. It seems slightly less noisy, but guessing that is from the cover being re-installed.

Sorry, man, something doesn't seem right.  That chain snatch should go away with the valve cover installed, and the cam chain tensioner working correctly.  Did you back off the set screw after installing the wedge and spring?  

Yes, I backed the set screw out. the chain isn't "hopping" on the cam sprocket anymore, but its still making the jerk/hitch motion and noise when hand cranking. You stated that was from the tension in the valve springs as the lobes pass over.

Yes, I did say that.  Thing is, though, with the chain properly tensioned, and the valve cover installed, there should not be much of any noise.

Would it be advised that I focus on the chain tensioner? Could it be binding for some reason? I basically reinstalled it without the side wedge installed then installed the wedge. I did re-measur my valve clearance after the shim installs and the numbers are better now. More toward the max clearance then the low end. As for the timing, I getting really good and setting the cams and the chain now. I feel I am so close to restarting, but having doubts. I do plan on going back through the carbs tonight with some carb brushes/wires as you have stated in the past. I figured with them off the bike might as well.

Start up after timing can be nerve wracking but as long as rotate several times by hand with the plugs out (so you can better feel any resistance) and then re-check the chain tension you will be "good to go"