KZ750 Four Cam Install Help

So you may have read in a previous post that I decided to do a valve clearance check. I had one exhaust vlalve that came in at .064mm. The other inlet and exhaust clearances were in spec, but on the low side. I am installing one lower shim number on all the valves except the .064mm one which will be two steps lower. Anyway. When I removed the cam shafts I locked the tensioner and removed it. I then removed all the cam shaft bolts and caps. Before I removed the actual cam shaft I put a mark on the chain and cam gear for each shaft to help with reinstall. I have the crank set at the 1.4 T mark.

As long as I have not moved the crank shaft and I have the marks on the cam shafts and chain should install be as simple as lining up my marks I made previously?

Yeah, should be "as simple" as that, but I would go by the book and line up the arrow on the exhaust sprocket and count pins just to be safe.

Just be sure to double check everything.  And remember: remove the tensioner spring before putting on the valve cover.  

What I do is install the cams, put the cap & spring in the cam chain tensioner back on, and turn over the engine carefully, while watching the timing marks.  Make sure everything is perfect, then remove the tensioner cap and spring, and put on the valve cover.  Last step, put the tension back together.

Obviously you need to consult the factory service manual but I have done so many 650/750 shim adjustments I can do it with my eyes closed.

Here is my method : Roll the cam into the center of the head (top idler removed if early model) on the chain without taking it out. Change the shims then roll it back in place and clamp down with the cam caps, repeat for the other side. Crank the engine over several times by hand to check the sprocket marks are where they should be in FSM.



If for some reason the sprocket is not in the correct position you can move the chain one link either way using the same method.

Never had a issue doing it this way, can be done on all the Kawi 4 cylinder air cooled engines.

 

Great question - I'm doing the same to my 750 as well, shims on order. Good luck and thanks again to the vets who help us along the way!

I FINALLY got my shims in (two week to Wisconsin from, Tennessee). Installed them tonight. Reinstalled the cams WITHOUT the tensioner installed using the factory manual process and the various cam marks. Had the crank set to the 1.4 T mark when doing all this also. Put the cam cover on. Then reinstalled the tensioner. HOPING she will start when I give it a go tomorrow.

Best to rotate the motor a couple of times by hand to be sure all is well before "hitting the button"

Injected wrote:

Obviously you need to consult the factory service manual but I have done so many 650/750 shim adjustments I can do it with my eyes closed.

Here is my method : Roll the cam into the center of the head (top idler removed if early model) on the chain without taking it out. Change the shims then roll it back in place and clamp down with the cam caps, repeat for the other side. Crank the engine over several times by hand to check the sprocket marks are where they should be in FSM.

If for some reason the sprocket is not in the correct position you can move the chain one link either way using the same method.

Never had a issue doing it this way, can be done on all the Kawi 4 cylinder air cooled engines.

 

I do it like this too. Only difference is I zip tie the chain to the cam through the hole in the cam so it cant move.

Wookie58 wrote:

Best to rotate the motor a couple of times by hand to be sure all is well before "hitting the button"

Finally had some time to work on the cams again. I tried a couple of test cranks using my 17mm soket wrench. When I rotated crank the cam chain like "skipped" camshafts. I don't know what the means. This is after I reinstalled the wedge chain tensioner.  Its like the tensioner is not taking up the slack for some reason. Any help is appreciated as I have no idea how to move forward with this issue.

As in you're turning the engine over by hand and the chain is kind of "popping" ? I had something like that happen on one reassembly to recheck valve clearances and I had not put the tensioner back in...chain would get taught and then kind of pop back to slack as the engine turned. I reset timing, installed the tensioner and it turned by hand fine. 

Now if only my last shim would get here so I can finish this project and get riding again... 

bluejacobs wrote:

As in you're turning the engine over by hand and the chain is kind of "popping" ? I had something like that happen on one reassembly to recheck valve clearances and I had not put the tensioner back in...chain would get taught and then kind of pop back to slack as the engine turned. I reset timing, installed the tensioner and it turned by hand fine. 

Now if only my last shim would get here so I can finish this project and get riding again... 

I have now attempted to reset the timing 3 times now. I remove the tensioner "wedge". Remove the cam bots, adjust the cams per the manual. Reinstall the cam bolts. reinstalled the tensioner wedge. Attempt a hand crank and the cam chain continues to skip. So frustrating. 

bluejacobs wrote:

Great question - I'm doing the same to my 750 as well, shims on order. Good luck and thanks again to the vets who help us along the way!

Attaching a video of what its doing when I turn the motor manually.