KZ900 valve shims Machining

@ Cra Z1
Totaly agree ! Let me make the total cost of that rework. I think I'm going to sue him for hidden defects, even if the sale was without legal quarantine.

@Zed 1015
I already use a 400 grits and it look ok. I have noticed some fine gouges on few old shims. 

@Texas KZ
I already made an oil change after my first ride but nothing drawed my attention. I will have a closer look on my next oil change after start up.

@Wookie
You are funny

Just a FYI...I always measure shim thickness to ensure it's the correct one.  In the past I've found the odd one that is not the stamped thickness.  

Full agree: Trust in, is sometimes ok,..but control it  is sometimes  better!

hardrockminer wrote:

Just a FYI...I always measure shim thickness to ensure it's the correct one.  In the past I've found the odd one that is not the stamped thickness.  

You bet...during re-install of trimed valve sterm (by a machine shop) One valve sterm has been cut more that it needed ! The stem head was below the spring retainer : (
My option was to order a valve a the exact measurement I need ...I hope...LOL

An other thing that I'm not sure is when assembly, the stem end does not extend very much above the retainer. I just ordered a set of titanium that are made to replace OEM but are thinner on top.

Will see how it goe's !

 

Just an update...I ordered a new valve to replace the one that the sterm was trimed too short by the machine shop and got it right the second time but I had to paid for their mistake
The titanium springs retainer were installed and fit well. Thing when bad when I torqued the last cam cap: I stripped 2 bolts due to the torque value in Kawasaki shop manual !!!
Then I found that a technical buletin was issued to lower the toque required and that I was not the only one that end up with the same result.
The head is now at a different machine shop to install some hellycoil and / or Time-sert and it should be ready this week.
I've have a new head gasket and hopefully I can get it running soon as the riding season here has just begun !

 

I have completed the head and cams installation....and confirmed proper aligment....

Now...I read somewhere (not in Kawa shop manual) that the chain tensioner has to be remove to install the vaves cover.

Can someone tell me if it is required and why !

Thanks,

Kaw-boy 900 wrote:

I have completed the head and cams installation....and confirmed proper aligment....

Now...I read somewhere (not in Kawa shop manual) that the chain tensioner has to be remove to install the vaves cover.

Can someone tell me if it is required and why !

Thanks,

On the later bikes, after 1980, with a link plate type cam chain, inside the valve cover there is a rub block for the cam chain.  Those are the bikes that need the cam chain tensioner disabled before the valve cover is installed.  The bikes with a roller cam chain, and roller wheel cam chain guides, are different, and don't need the extra monkey motion.

Thanks Nessisn ! 

Leson lerned in life and in mechanic: The devil is in the details LOL ! Just wanted to be sure

I started the engine for the first time since the valve and carburetor work. I installed K&N pods and air corrector jets.
The engine runs well, except for occasional pops (still !) at startup when the engine is cold, which roll on choke and disappear once warmed up.
The valves are adjusted to .006" / 1.52 mm. I noticed that the rubber plugs on carburators for checking the synchronization were loose...I corrected this with Tefflon tape while waiting to install new ones

I noticed that the spark plugs are BR8ES NGK R.....could it be why it make back fire....due to weak spark ??



FINALY  At the end of the day...I am very happy of what I've done and even more of what I got !!!! 

Congrats finishing her up bike looks super nice.  I had the same occasional pops after engine rebuild and before engine heats up. 
The reason for the popp on my bike was one cyl was running a little lean before engine heats up and runs more rich. It was fixed by turning the fuel screw out about 1/4 turn on that cyl.
You can try to hold your hand over the mufflers and se (or hear)  what cyl is popping.  Or you can check the sparkplugs and see if one is white.You can also check the heat at the bends the one that is hottest is the one that is to lean. 
I see your bike has airscrews so then you will need to turn the screw inward until the popps stops. 
The popping can also come from several other things like airleak at the intake or lose exhaust bend and more .but first check your plugs and try to adjust the mixture more rich on that cylinder. Good luck!

Bike looks stunning

Kaw-boy 900 wrote:

I noticed that the spark plugs are BR8ES NGK R.....could it be why it make back fire....due to weak spark ??


 

Yes!.
You are running two sources of resistance with the "R" plugs and 5ohm caps so you need to eliminate one or both.