TOPIC:

Sorry about delay.

1. Well if you get the opportunity to use assembly lube, you should, as mineral oil might drain away a bit over a few months.

2. Don't worry about carb synch for the first 100 miles, you'll have to redo it anyway as the valves/rings bed in. Do a static sync on the slides.
Yes, vary the rpm, don't lug the engine, don't baby it. Avoid traffic lights

3. Yes, use Kawasaki shop manual torque specs and replace bolts with others of the same tensile strength. I'd be careful about the torque on the camshaft tunnel bolt on the cylinders, use medium threadlock on it.

4. I think the shop manual gives break in oil replacement. Off the top of my head, first change is 50 miles, second is 150 + filter.

I try to make a summary here, so I can have a step by step procedure to follow the next week.

1. Warm up the engine, but not idle the engine, keep it between 2500-3000 RPM (I need to heat up the paint in steps here)

2. Take it out for a trip, and don`t idle the engine for the first 30 minutes.

3. Keep the RPM over 2500 but under xxxx ????

4. Vary the rpm whole time between 2500 and ???

5. Re-torque on the bolts on 20 miles.

6. After 30 miles, start to use more throttle, up to ?

7. After 50 miles, check the torque on the head bolts again.
If not loose more torquing is not needed ? How do I figure out if they was loose or not, since I going to pull the nut back 1/8 before I torque?

8. After 75 miles take it up to full throttle and run the bike as normal driving.

9.
- 100 Miles I replace the oil and filter.
- Check the valve clearness, adjust if necessary, try to heat .004" on intake and .004" - .006" on exhaust ?
- Carb synchronization.

10. What do do now? When Shall I start follow normal engine maintenance?




Is it waste of time try to adjust the valve in point 9? shall I just monitor the valve clearness is fare from the minimum cleanrenss?
But when should I do the valve adjustment ? and when whould the valve clearness be stable?
All the valve has a cleanress between 0,10-0,15 before start-up, around 0,13mm.

I don't think you need to worry about allowing the engine to idle. Just don't allow it to idle for a long time or it may heat up because there is no airflow.

Start engine and check to see if all four cylinders are firing. You can do this by touching the headers but be very careful to not burn yourself.

I'd set the idle at 1500 rpm and do a quick carb sync with a fan in front of the engine.

Then take the bike out for a ride following a "city" riding routine. Accelerate away from stops, vary throttle openings, don't lug the engine. Max rpm's of about 7000 or so.

Retorque head nuts after 20 miles is good. I'd also check the valve clearances since the valve cover will be off (just to be safe).

Ride more and continue. You can use throttle but again, keep away from full throttle until you get to about 75 miles or so, and then only for short bursts.

Oil and filter at 100 miles is fine. Torque head nuts again as necessary but hopefully they are already tight from your previous work. If the head nuts keep loosening that's a bad sign (gaskets compressing too much).

Have fun!

Spin the motor a few seconds without plugs to circulate the oil.
Put plugs back in and start it.
if it runs ok don't let it sit idling, just get out asap and ride as normal for at least 20 minutes .
If it's running ok don't baby the engine but don't overrev and use the throttle to load the engine with both acceleration and engine braking to bed in the rings.
Most important is is vary the speed /revs to avoid glazing the bores.
Let motor cool overnight and re-torque, do your shim checks etc whatever you need to do.
Change the oil/filter whenever you like 100 miles/200 miles and re-torque the head again at around 500.

I started up the engine yesterday without any problem. It was running on all four, I took it out on a 30 minutes drive after it was warm.
No big issue, I can feel I need a carb sync, but that is fine.

Will retorque the head bolts before next time I take the bike out.

Thank you all.

Valve clearness.
1. How many miles do I need to run before it should almost be stable?
2. When should the valve clearness be stable (when should the last valve check be done) before I start following normal maint. intervals?

I`m not reshime valve before these limit it meet if I`m within accepted window for valve clearness.

Retorque head nuts after 20 miles is good. I'd also check the valve clearances since the valve cover will be off (just to be safe).
I don`t need to take of the valve covers when I retorque the head bolts, all bolts is outside the cover ?

This is what I do..
Build engine .
Set valve clearances.
Spin engine on starter to settle the valves etc and re- check / adjust.
Run engine as you have.
Let it cool overnight and re-torque the head - No need to remove cam cover unless you want to check the valves.
The amount of miles you did (if any ) on first start up don't matter, it just needs to go through a full heat cycle before re-torqueing .
At this point you can re-check the valves now or put a few more miles on the engine.
Any checks are good checks.
After 400 - 500 miles re-torque the head, check /adjust the valves and then start your service intervals from there.

zed1015 wrote: This is what I do..
Build engine .
Set valve clearances.
Spin engine on starter to settle the valves etc and re- check / adjust.
Run engine as you have.
Let it cool overnight and re-torque the head - No need to remove cam cover unless you want to check the valves.
The amount of miles you did (if any ) on first start up don't matter, it just needs to go through a full heat cycle before re-torqueing .
At this point you can re-check the valves now or put a few more miles on the engine.
Any checks are good checks.
After 400 - 500 miles re-torque the head, check /adjust the valves and then start your service intervals from there.

Thank you for sharing your skills !
Then I only have one question left, must I wait to 400-500 miles before I start running the engine normal, with stady RPM etc... ?

gordone wrote: Thank you for sharing your skills !
Must I wait to 400-500 miles before I start running the engine normal, with stady RPM etc... ?

No. ride the bike normally, just don't sit at constant rpms for too long and risk glazing the bores ..
We are talking sitting for miles at constant revs that will prevent the rings from bedding in fully not a short cruise up the street..
Don't limit your rev range either, no need to keep below 5000 rpm or whatever for 500 miles but don't instantly take it flat out .
All just common sense really..

I have got problems....
As you now was I starting up the bike two days ago, all cylinders was running fine and took the bike out for approx. 30 minutes city drive without any issue.
Yesterday was I not using the bike, I was fixing some paint on the exhaust, replace the fuel hose and made some vent house (the two port on the carbs, so water cannot come in).

Today was I tried to start the engine it will not started... I tried a lot with choke and not...

- I checked for spark, and it was spark on all four...
- I took out the plugs and they looked weet...
- Sometimes I can hear it firing some in between... got 1rpm maybe and then die...
- I could feel the pipe was cold on 3, but they other was not hoot either, but I could feel they was warmer.
- I took out the carbs and open-up the carbs up under and used compressed air cleaned the jets etc...
- No differences, will not start....
- I open up the valve cover and measure the valves, 3 was close to 0,08. So I adjusted the valve so all is around 0,13-0,15
- No differences, will not start...
- I took the plugs out and 3 and 4 was wet, but it looks like 1 and 2 was dry....
- I dried to drain the carbs will the fuel switch was in PRI, got gas out from all, but not cylinders 1, nothing...

I think the problem is the carb? But why was the bike running fine when I parked it, and when I start up two days later will not start?

What should I do? Must I take the carb out and clean more, fuel line etc?

Don`t know 100% where to start.

When I got the bike for 1,5 years ago I also had problems, then it started easy, but it was missing power and back firing, then the conclusion was the carb sync was the problem, I mean carb 1 had to lidel openin or something.. so when I open up the carb1 more it start firing good on cylinder 1 also.. and the bike was running fine for the whole summer.

I rebuild-ed the carb when I got the bike.

It was a lot of information here... my head is spinning around

I have free these days, so want to be out driving was so ready for it, since the engine was running fine two days ago.

gordone wrote: Yesterday was I not using the bike, I was fixing some paint on the exhaust, replace the fuel hose and made some vent house (the two port on the carbs, so water cannot come in).

- I took the plugs out and 3 and 4 was wet, but it looks like 1 and 2 was dry....
- I dried to drain the carbs will the fuel switch was in PRI, got gas out from all, but not cylinders 1, nothing...

Seems like a problem with either the fuel hose, petcock, or maybe you have debris in the tank which is now blocking up the carbs.

Nessism wrote:

gordone wrote: Yesterday was I not using the bike, I was fixing some paint on the exhaust, replace the fuel hose and made some vent house (the two port on the carbs, so water cannot come in).

I have fuel filter inside the tank, built inn with fuel valve. So I can start the clean process after the tank?

- I took the plugs out and 3 and 4 was wet, but it looks like 1 and 2 was dry....
- I dried to drain the carbs will the fuel switch was in PRI, got gas out from all, but not cylinders 1, nothing...

Seems like a problem with either the fuel hose, petcock, or maybe you have debris in the tank which is now blocking up the carbs.