TOPIC:

When I took of the block some sands dropped into the engine, not much but some....
The engine was drained before I open it up.

Stupid.... stupid....

I was thinking remove the bottom pan and use compressed air and maybe some liquid for flushing?
Just use thin hot oil? or can it be good to use diesel first and then thin oil ?

Thank you for your advise in these matter.

I knew no matter how hard I would try I would drop some junk in the bottom end too so I planned on it and bought a auto motor stand, removed the pan and washed it out really good with (gas) but defently use diesel instead, WD40 and brake cleaner then like you say oil the thing up. The pan and pump will be a mess anyway so in the long run your better off doing this anyway.

+1, I've had the same experience as KZB2.

Thank you all for feedback.

Hopefully will it be in better condition then before as you say, properly many thing who left when you only drain oil with the drain plug...?

I think you are asking if you just drop the oil by pulling the drain plug, will it be OK? No in my opinion. There are lots of channels in the oil pan and very likely there is some sludge in the bottom of the pan that will hang on to the sand and dirt. You should be able to pull the pan off without pulling the engine. You will have to remove the exhaust. Get a new pan gasket and drop the pan. Do keep track of which bolts go in each position on the pan. I believe there are three different lengths of bolts.

Thank you, the engine is out and the top and block is of, so it should be a big problem removing the pan.

1. removing the pan.
2. flush the engine with diesel.
3. flush with a general motor oil (heat it up first)
4. install the pan again?

Is there something I need to pay attention on ? example with the diesel, so I don`t make any errors .... ?

a plan ?

Most debris will find it's way into the sump pan, smaller bits picked up on the re circulation gets trapped in the oil filter before going onto the bearings and shafts etc. Any bits would get spun off the gear and crank, (at redline con rod rpm forces are up to 1000g -the G force acceleration) each grain of sand now weighs 2.6 grams...)

Some of the 197's Triumph sports cars had poor quality control, decades later some enthusiasts have found casting sand in the sump form manufacture some decades later.


Dropping anything into the motor is bad, circlips or nuts potentially much worse. You seem to be doing the right thing here.

1 yes
2 yes
3 no - unneccessary
4 yes, new gasket, clean the pump strainer if required -and use new O ring on oil pump
5 new oil filter



One grain of sand in a bearing could scrap it in minutes, but one can drive a vehicle through the Sahara desert in a vehicle for several weeks on one oil service with no problems, The paradox of this desert scenario will clearly illustrate that even driving through 8.0x10^27 grains of sand : 8 octillion grains of sand is possible. ..but one bit of sand or grit that gets into the oil gallery past the oil filter can ruin a bearing. surface.

Tyrell Corp wrote: Most debris will find it's way into the sump pan, smaller bits picked up on the re circulation gets trapped in the oil filter before going onto the bearings and shafts etc. Any bits would get spun off the gear and crank, (at redline con rod rpm forces are up to 1000g -the G force acceleration) each grain of sand now weighs 2.6 grams...)

Some of the 197's Triumph sports cars had poor quality control, decades later some enthusiasts have found casting sand in the sump form manufacture some decades later.


Dropping anything into the motor is bad, circlips or nuts potentially much worse. You seem to be doing the right thing here.

1 yes
2 yes
3 no - unneccessary
4 yes, new gasket, clean the pump strainer if required -and use new O ring on oil pump
5 new oil filter



One grain of sand in a bearing could scrap it in minutes, but one can drive a vehicle through the Sahara desert in a vehicle for several weeks on one oil service with no problems, The paradox of this desert scenario will clearly illustrate that even driving through 8.0x10^27 grains of sand : 8 octillion grains of sand is possible. ..but one bit of sand or grit that gets into the oil gallery past the oil filter can ruin a bearing. surface.

Thank you, the engine will stand for a while before I will fill oil and start it up. Can I just spray WD-40 around inside the engine,
to prevent against corrosion?

O ring for the oilpump are we talking about item 671 (671B2590) ?
www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...ilter-81-83-h2-h3-h4

My plan is to replace all the o-rings for the oil pan:
www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...l-pan-81-83-h2-h3-h4

Before you attempt any kind of flushing I'd try to remove as much debris as you can from the top. Look into the engine after removing the cylinders and reach down with a stick loaded with grease and pull out the grit from the top. You should be able to get most of the debris out this way. Only after doing this would I start flushing.

Nessism wrote: Before you attempt any kind of flushing I'd try to remove as much debris as you can from the top. Look into the engine after removing the cylinders and reach down with a stick loaded with grease and pull out the grit from the top. You should be able to get most of the debris out this way. Only after doing this would I start flushing.

I understand, remove everything I can see before I apply any diesel into the engine.

I was planning using a spray bottle with diesel on.

Thank you.

Nessism wrote: Before you attempt any kind of flushing I'd try to remove as much debris as you can from the top. Look into the engine after removing the cylinders and reach down with a stick loaded with grease and pull out the grit from the top. You should be able to get most of the debris out this way. Only after doing this would I start flushing.

I will try get most as possible out before flushing.
The flushing can it be a good way doing it, by using a spray bottle with diesel on, spray and spray from the top and then use high pressure air to remove the diesel...

The engine will stay fora while before I start / fill oil... can I spray some WD40 around in the engine to avoid any corrosion?

Today have I flushed the engine with diesel as planned together with you all in these threat.
I think these was a good decision, I found the clip for he piton bolt and there was also some metal shavings (very small).

My question is now, it will take some weeks before I rebuild the engine and it will take even more weeks before I install the engine in the frame and fill oil on the engine etc... What shall I do ?

Do I need to store the engine inside in a heated room or can I store it cold warehouse?

Must I spray some WD40 around inside the engine ?