TOPIC:

Even with the shorter and narrower bars I am using, the stock cable can be routed to work. A cable 2 or 3" shorter would also work with different routing. Any longer than stock would start to cause routing problems.

Skidmark wrote: Even with the shorter and narrower bars I am using, the stock cable can be routed to work. A cable 2 or 3" shorter would also work with different routing. Any longer than stock would start to cause routing problems.

Ok, I have a 750R1 and my son has a 1981 KZ650, both cables are basically the same, I can't measure the lengths because the 2 bikes are crammed together in storage, the only visual difference is where the mid cable adjuster sits along the cable, the 650 adjuster is closer to the bars, the R1 cable adjuster is about mid way along the cable. I just searched cable lengths and found on Z1 enterprises site that they list a KZ750/650/ KZ1000 cable at 58.5 inches end to end of the inner cable, they list the GPZ750R1 at 49.5 inches end to end of the inner cable. I'll drop both links below.. Lengths are in the descriptions in the links.

GPZ750R1 www.z1enterprises.com/cable-clutch-kz700...50-R1+GPz+750%2F1982

KZ650/750 and 1000 www.z1enterprises.com/cable-clutch-kz650-750-kz1000.html

Starting the repair on my swing arm brace. Ending up with some misalignment, so I am not sure how well it will turn out. It will be tacked and reassembled to ensure there isn't any chain contact prior to full welding.

Since I didn't like the misalignment, I cut it completely out so I could line it all up properly.

Could you take a v out here to bring the radius back into alignment

Time to pull it out of the fixture and reassemble. Fingers crossed!

Mikaw - I already had it cut all the way out when I saw your suggestion.

Definitely better, but still not enough room. Looks like I will need to take a section out of the tube wall and weld a plate back in to create enough space. Since this is the slack portion it has to have room to move around.

I have been cutting, grinding, and tack welding attempt #3. As soon as it's cool I will reassemble and recheck the chain clearance. Looks good from the side, not so much from the bottom or rear. Waiting to see it on the bike before anything is final.

I am comfortable with the new chain clearance. Final weld sequence will be important to keep it straight, even with a fixture.

Here is a better angle from below

Normally don't post close ups of my welds, for obvious reasons. These are turning out better than my usual though.