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Your a smart guy you will make it right.

I'm just a bit disappointed with myself is all. I have a plan in my head already. Requires more tubing to replace/reform the curve on the left side and welding it. Glad I didn't scrap my swingarm weld fixture. I will need to have it re-powder coated as well.

There is a post here showing were a half moon shape was cut out of the frame and then a C shaped flat plate welded into the frame pipe. Maybe someone else can find I i cant. Might be a save instead of remaking the entire swing are.

found it

kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/569823-what-s...-r6-swinger?start=12

I thought about a reverse section of tube as well. The more I looked at it, the more it seemed a new section of tubing, sleeved for strength, may look better. It would add more material to one side of the swingarm, but I can't see it being enough to cause any issues. I will decide which way to go once I get the swingarm removed. I am marking the area needing clearance before I take it back apart.

I finished adjusting the length of my shifter linkage this morning. The original shifter will get cut down and refinished when the side cover assembly is completed and bolted down.

After a lot of thought, here is my plan to modify my mistake on my swing arm. In the picture, cut #1 will go all the way through the tube. Cut #2 will only be part way through, starting on the outside, but leaving the inside edge intact. #2 will be a pie shaped cut. I will bend the tube outward, and insert a short tube section in the gap at cut #1. I am thinking it will be 3/4" to 1" wide. This will move the brace outward, giving the chain the clearance it needs. After welding, it will get ground smooth. Then it will get stripped and re-powder coated. Unfortunately this will cost me four new pivot bearings, as they will not live through the process. I will need to remove the bearings before hand, which will likely ruin them. The goal is to keep the shape of the tube as intact as possible so it doesn't look butchered. It will end up non-symmetrical on the left, but chain clearance is by far more important.

After soaking with copious amounts of penetrating oil, I got the stuck half of my clutch cable freed up. One end (the bar end) was still very free. The lower end though was not due to collecting moisture over the years it sat outside. The spring over the housing has some rust on it, along with the adjustment hardware. Since I have been unable to find a new replacement, lubrication and cleaning were in order. I will continue to slide the housing back and forth with penetrating oil for the new few days. I will wait for the swing arm mod to be completed and test the cable/clutch assembly when the cover goes back on.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationIsn't your clutch cable the same as the 1982 GPZ750 R1 and KZ 750 E3 ? , if so they seem to be all over ebay.. These links are in the UK but I'm sure you'll find them locally.. Actually, I remember someone saying Motion pro in the States has them, might be worth trying them..

I agree with targeting an R1 clutch cable PN 54011-1101. There are a few on Ebay for decent prices. OEM are better than Motion Pro.

The Zedder part number cross reference does not list that cable as fitting the '81 KZ750E2. Can you get a length verification (inner cable tip to tip)? I found some cables are as much as 7" longer than the one off my bike.

Skidmark wrote: The Zedder part number cross reference does not list that cable as fitting the '81 KZ750E2. Can you get a length verification (inner cable tip to tip)? I found some cables are as much as 7" longer than the one off my bike.

I'd email Z1 enterprises and ask, what handlebars are you using ?, I'm going to use low rise superbike bars so will be chasing a shorter cable, I think the later {early 80's} Z650 also use these cables....