TOPIC:

I had the same issue before the wreck. The gauge would show 0 when hot. On hard acceleration the oil light would flash. I had a cooler too. I thought I'd have to install a gate in the pan. When I got her back on the road again, I ran it without the cooler, it was trashed anyway. The pressure still did the same thing but the light stopped flashing. This time in 13 I went through the pump. I sanded the flat cover plate with #600 paper and used a feeler gauge to measure between the gears. I had a couple laying around and used the best from each. Now I have all kinds of oil pressure. It says in the book to take out the wear marks on the plate and there is a thinner gasket to use to raise the pressure. They can be hard to come by.
As for the clutch you might remove the glaze from the plates. I am liking zukedave's clutch arm mod idea. I have to keep telling myself there's nothing wrong when I pull in the lever. It feels too easy. Like a 100cc machine and it works great. I'll bet I could put in heavy springs and not even notice it. What I like most is it's cheap and revercable.
Steve

Glad you got it going Jon, I knew you'd be happy with the RS 34's, I was glad I got talked out of putting some 40 yr. old 29's on, mine by Jim at Red Line Cycle, as far as the pipe goes, is it too loud at normal riding, or just at WOT? mine is still in the box from the same time you bought yours a few yrs. ago
once you get all the tweaking done now, you'll be ready for another project,
Pete

NEWBIKEITIS syndrome, what noises are lurking behind those rs 34s.......

Street Fighter LTD wrote: Hi Jon
Glad you got out on the bike.
15 cold is normal as is bouncing off zero at a warmed up idle. Should show 2 or 3 at speed once warmed up.ALL NORMAL
Flow, vs Pressure
When you take the plates out of the clutch you may be able to polish the basket fingers if not worn badly. I did this when I last went thru mine and got good results. More of a minor fine file and 400 grit polishing effect , than removing material so the plates done get hung up
Hope this helps
Dave

Maybe I am late to the party, but while the clutch basket is out I would think it would be VERY smart and the right time to replace the clutch dampers that are notorious for turning to coffee grounds and ruining a ton of internal parts and causing havoc. Putting in replacement aftermarket Viton dampers would be extremely worthwhile when that is out and easy to access. Just my 2 cents...

Brett

Irish-Kawi wrote:

Street Fighter LTD wrote: Hi Jon
Glad you got out on the bike.
15 cold is normal as is bouncing off zero at a warmed up idle. Should show 2 or 3 at speed once warmed up.ALL NORMAL
Flow, vs Pressure
When you take the plates out of the clutch you may be able to polish the basket fingers if not worn badly. I did this when I last went thru mine and got good results. More of a minor fine file and 400 grit polishing effect , than removing material so the plates done get hung up
Hope this helps
Dave

Maybe I am late to the party, but while the clutch basket is out I would think it would be VERY smart and the right time to replace the clutch dampers that are notorious for turning to coffee grounds and ruining a ton of internal parts and causing havoc. Putting in replacement aftermarket Viton dampers would be extremely worthwhile when that is out and easy to access. Just my 2 cents...

Brett

It's good timing Brett, thank you for the advise. Does anyone know if I can get those from Z1E?

pete greek1 wrote: Glad you got it going Jon, I knew you'd be happy with the RS 34's, I was glad I got talked out of putting some 40 yr. old 29's on, mine by Jim at Red Line Cycle, as far as the pipe goes, is it too loud at normal riding, or just at WOT? mine is still in the box from the same time you bought yours a few yrs. ago
once you get all the tweaking done now, you'll be ready for another project,
Pete

Pete, it's loud period. It's as loud as my Kerker was @WOT when I am about 3-4K. Don't get me wrong, I love love love this pipe, but it rattles my brain. It makes the bike sound mean.

On another point Jon,did you get youhydraulic cluth working in the end? Im busy with mine again and am wondering if I can get the spacing sorted out 'Dry' without filling the system.Any advice?

kaw-a-holic wrote:

Irish-Kawi wrote:

Street Fighter LTD wrote: Hi Jon
Glad you got out on the bike.
15 cold is normal as is bouncing off zero at a warmed up idle. Should show 2 or 3 at speed once warmed up.ALL NORMAL
Flow, vs Pressure
When you take the plates out of the clutch you may be able to polish the basket fingers if not worn badly. I did this when I last went thru mine and got good results. More of a minor fine file and 400 grit polishing effect , than removing material so the plates done get hung up
Hope this helps
Dave

Maybe I am late to the party, but while the clutch basket is out I would think it would be VERY smart and the right time to replace the clutch dampers that are notorious for turning to coffee grounds and ruining a ton of internal parts and causing havoc. Putting in replacement aftermarket Viton dampers would be extremely worthwhile when that is out and easy to access. Just my 2 cents...

Brett

It's good timing Brett, thank you for the advise. Does anyone know if I can get those from Z1E?

No problem and glad it was a helpful thought, I am aware of this via a different forum and there is a member that makes them out of Viton for our bikes and they are $45 for the set I believe. If you would be interested PM me and I will get you some more details.

Brett

The big fours have springs not rubber dampeners.
Steve

davido wrote: On another point Jon,did you get youhydraulic cluth working in the end? Im busy with mine again and am wondering if I can get the spacing sorted out 'Dry' without filling the system.Any advice?

David, I'm still working on it. I still need to order the correct 14mm MC. I bought one, the guy told me it was a 14mm bore, it wasn't. Outside of that I am confident it will work.

Im also sure it will work. What Im wondering about is the spacing twixt the engine block and the mounting plate.
For instance,On my ZXR slave cylinder,I have the cylinder,then a large spring,then the piston,with a ball bearing in the center. This will butt up against the dimple in the end of the clutch push rod.
When the plate is mounted with the slave cylinder in place,and everything is 'at rest' should the piston be fully retracted ,fully compressing the spring ?
How did you space yours?
(My brain is turning over now. Maybe this is somethig to do with why yours didnt work out! Maybe you did get a 14mm bore master cylinder but the spacing of the slave wasnt right??)

Im sure I can sort it when its all together but I would like to set it up dry first as close as I can.