TOPIC:

swest wrote: There is a thread on porting and a video. Instead of opening the intake like I did, they closed up the bottom of the ports to increase velocity. Suggest watching it before doing any cutting. Very interesting.
Steve

Do you have a link to what you were reading or is it on KZR?

It was a link on KZR. One of the topics. I think I saved it on my computer at home. I'm in the high desert at my daughters place for X Mas. I might be able to find it on hers.
Steve


Merry Christmas to all.

Don't sweat it, Steve, I'll find it.

Now that I have 72mm 1075 pistons do I need 72mm cylinder base and head gaskets? The only ones I see on Z1 are copper. Is that what I am supposed to use? When I gap the rings is it going to be the same gap as stock?

Sent you a PM about the gasket.

As long as the sleeves are the same diameter as stock, you shouldn't have to use a larger base gasket. The head gasket is copper.I was watching one on eBay for $30. I was told they seep. I wish I hadn't listened to them. I bought stock gaskets with the O ring and it started leaking. This time I bought a early Z1 one piece gasket, filled the groove with high temp. silicon and no leak. It was cheap and the compression ring was in slightly in but no problems, being I will be in there one last time, I'll buy the copper one, coat it with copper seal and reuse it over and over again. That damn O ring has been a bane for the last 40 YEARS. If it seeps, let it, at least it won't gush like the O rings do.
Steve

Found a scuff on my intake cam. Take a look at pic and tell me what you guys think. I am on the fence as to whether or not I should use this cam. I looked at it under a magnifying glass and it has been run this way but that does not mean it should have.
More bad news, my cylinders also have scratches in them that I will have to deal with. I may have to just have my old cylinder punched out. The good new is that the pistons are in great shape and are forged not cast. Upon closer inspection there are no casting marks on the underside of the piston, (something my brother pointed out to me). Anyway please look at the cam under give me you opinion, GO or NO GO.
Thanks in advance you guys are awesome as usual.

Its on the releasing side of the lobe if that makes a difference.

It will only wear against the shim, shims are of course replaceable. I can't see it being an issue as long as it doesn't wear badly or fail on that lobe. A bit of polishing with some fine wet paper using light oil, just to smooth it. Run good oil, and a magnetic drain plug. You can recheck that lobe at valve adjustment intervals.
As far as the cylinder scuffing, have you got a hone? Or take it to a machine shop to have it checked and honed.
I'm wondering what sort of oil was used in that motor?

Is that on your Andrews cam? Show pics of the cylinder scratches. Might be able to run a hone through them.
Steve

Yes Steve, that is the Andrews cam
I ran a hone through the cylinder already and got rid of most everything but this one short scratch. Unfortunately its in the compression area of the cylinder so it has to be dealt with. After the hone I can easily get my finger nail in it. I need to take it to the machine shop and see if they can get it out and what the bore size would change to. It may end up to big for service limits.
Got my Keihin CR Specials today. They turned out to be 33's and are in pretty good shape. may need new gaskets they are pretty hard. All the screws for the tops and bowls are striped for the phillips so I will replace those with cap head allens.

Are they the same sleeves as your stock ones? You might be able to have one of them bored to fit. The gaskets can be re used with a smear of grease to seal them. I got Allens for mine.
Steve
I'd use the cam.

Hey Steve, those carbs turned out to be 33s. Are they going to be to big?