TOPIC:

Got a chunk of ally through the post today so took a break from the head and finished the blanking plate for the now unused ignition side.
Made the center a press fit in the modded ign housing and styled it to match the bulge of the 'J' alt cover which will be slimmed and skeletonised to act as a stone guard for the electrex ignition

Busy day today.
Spent this morning blasting the head.



And then painted and baked it


New guides fitted and seats recut



Ports have been opened up to let the flavour flood out.




A few more hours work setting up the valve heights etc and it's ready for fitting,

zed1015 wrote: Have also machined down an old damaged ignition housing which will have the old oil seal hole plugged with a nice bit of turned alloy to keep the oil in.

This is due to the arrival of a self generating cdi race ignition that runs in place of the alternator

A small total loss 12v moped battery will now live in the seat tail to take care of the brake light and horn to keep plod happy :wink:

Can you tell me more about the ignition? That looks like a pretty bitching setup!

Hi.
It's from Electrex over here in England.

www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/STK-310.html

It bolts on the alternator side and comes with everything you need, rotor ,coils , cdi's, 5ohm resistor plug caps and kill switch (you can specify straight or angled plug caps)
The cdi units have adjustable rev limiters and the ignition curve is supposed to be adjustable but in reality it just relies on moving the backplate so it is actually just moved up and down the rev range along with the timing being moved a few degrees .
Actual timing advance is fixed over a 35 degree range.
You don't need a battery , just kick it off like a crosser.
You can't use the starter motor as there's no provision for the starter gear so only really practical on the early kickstart engines unless you got the knack of bump starts.
They are available for all big zeds / gpz's and other makes.
Price for this one was just under £500 delivered.

Does that ignition fit under a stock dyno cover?

wireman wrote: Does that ignition fit under a stock dyno cover?

Yes! it does.
I'm going to skeletonise a cover to act as a stone guard for mine.
Something like this but not as severe.

i'm gobsmacked !

i've got some questions,but i am not sure where to start .

thanks for the post.awesome work as usual.

keep us posted,

leon

Valve stem heights all done and set around the minimum height so will be in the 280/300- ish shim range once i've lapped the valves.
Home made height tools make for quick checking and adjustment and much easier and consistantly accurate than using a vernier.

531blackbanshee wrote: i'm gobsmacked !

i've got some questions,but i am not sure where to start .

thanks for the post.awesome work as usual.

keep us posted,

leon

Thanks, Will try my best.
Have had a lot of problems posting pictures on here and gave up for a while but now everything seems ok so i pasted everything over from my thread on the Z1OC site and it's all up to date now.
The valve stem heights were actually done this morning.

in this picture here,




the adjustment idler is the kz650 right ?
what is the heat affected zone,did you have to weld on it?

the top idler on the right what did it come from?

did you re-use the needle bearings or source new ones?

i have some gsxr forks that look like your zx-10 forks,any idea if the same trick could be used on the gsxr forks to extend them?

you are very glad that i do not live near you ,i believe you would grow tired of seeing my mug very quickly.

otoh,i could watch you and you wouldn't have to answer so many questions .

thanks in advance for any of the darkness you can clear from my mind .

you are going to have quite the collection of hand built brutal zeds in the garage.


leon

Truly one of the best builds on KZR glad to see you are back at it, alot of info and great ideas thanks for posting.

531blackbanshee wrote: in this picture here,

the adjustment idler is the kz650 right ?
what is the heat affected zone,did you have to weld on it?

the top idler on the right what did it come from?

did you re-use the needle bearings or source new ones?

i have some gsxr forks that look like your zx-10 forks,any idea if the same trick could be used on the gsxr forks to extend them?

you are very glad that i do not live near you ,i believe you would grow tired of seeing my mug very quickly.

otoh,i could watch you and you wouldn't have to answer so many questions .

thanks in advance for any of the darkness you can clear from my mind .

you are going to have quite the collection of hand built brutal zeds in the garage.


leon

Ok.
Yes!

1. The middle one is Z650 and on the other side is a slim threaded insert i brazed in to take a bolt (which explains the blueing) so that it can be dismantled easily (A button head bolt will replace the caphead when it is actually fitted)
There is also some subtle trimming of the bracket to be done before fitment which i will post details of once the head is complete.

2. Right top idler is 78 Z1R or z1000A i think, I've had some that are riveted and some that have the bolt.

3. I have fitted new bearings. I was suprised to see that Kawasaki used an imperial bearing amongst all the metric.
It's 7/16 x 5/8 x 1/2 inch.
simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p92295/BA78ZOH...ch/product_info.html

4. Any forks can be extended to some degree by this method.
The amount of length gained will be governed by the position of the top bush AND the amount of give on the rebound spring which i didn't mention in my posting.

Hope this helps