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One more thing mate - just checked out that WSM you DLd ? with LTD H4 supplement .
Remember you saying yours was a US model ?
The pics in it are crap but there are 3 combinations to try -
The US model is setup with vacumn hoses on 1, 2 and 4 with a cap on 3
The non US model has them with vacumn hose on 2 and caps on 1 , 3 and 4
whereas mine has vacumn lines on all 4
Give em all a go - you will just need a plastic T join no matter which way you try
Bloody hope this fixes your bike - has to be something that simple now.

For some Keihin CV34 vent info:
Click here > www.wgcarbs.com/index.php/using-joomla/e...gories/91-cv-connect




If the carbs at hand are the Keihin CV34 design without vent nipples, the float bowls may vent through big holes on the edge of the venturi.
Would assure the vent holes are clear and not obstructed by anything such as sloppy pod fitment.

Some Kehin CV34 carb designs reportedly vent the float bowls through the overflow circuit, so would check the brass overflow tube going straight down to the bottom of the float bowl to assure it isn't obstructed, and that the overflow circuit is clear, and that the hoses connected to the overflow nipples are clear and unkinked, and exit to open air.

In any event, the objective is to assure that the float bowls are venting as they are supposed to, regardless of the particular venting system designed into the carb(s).

When the float bowls aren't venting as required, normal fuel flow into the float bowls is restricted, whereby fuel level in the float bowls becomes too low, which is like "running out of gas."

Good Fortune!

SKK sorry mate bit of brain fade there last post - you will of course only need a T join for my setup with 4 hoses - it was late here and by the time i thought of that was trying to get to sleep. You have given those carbs a good clean out with carb cleaner and compressor with all parts out havnt you (and blown through overflows/vents with all parts removed)?Make sure if you have to again keep those Diaphragms over the other side of room when using carb cleaner .
Bit of a problem when we have different names for parts Patton - got ya now - Vents = Overflows here - Sorry for the mixup
Your carbs have only 1 main fuel line in centre from tank SKK ?

Awesome guys thanks, lots to go on and fiddle about with there now
Weirdly the bike is beginning to perform a bit better since I've been riding it to work this week and thrashing the nuts off it down a couple of nice straight roads on the way. I can't figure out why that is but I'm not complaining! Its still ropey in the top end but I actually managed to get a ton out of it this morning (at least I think it was as stupid US speedo only goes to 80mph...why?!) I can't seem to redline it but the revs were getting up to around 9-10 so a bit of improvement, guess it could be to do with the new manifold rubbers settling in or something getting blasted out maybe?
I'll give the carbs a synching & mess about with the vacuum hoses n hopefully that will get her running that little bit better.
Have noticed the valve ticking noise is quite annoying, any ideas why its doing that or how I managed to do that? I took 3 of the valves out as I was going to replace them but put them back the way they where as bike shop guy said the clearance was ok, then the cams back on etc. It sounds like a loose valve, its like a tapping/clacking sound? Do i need to worry about it?

ZR it is just one fuel line in the center going in to the carbs yeah.

Did you replace the springs? They can test good but act like that. /
I had a ticking at start up and the valves were noisy at certain RPM's. New springs, seals and valves. They sing like new. Red line comes quicker too.
Steve

SKK exactly how loud is the ticking - ticking is good up to a point - silence is not- can you do a very quick vid of it running .Not bad if you are getting the Ton (speedo display only goes to 80 MPH ?).How does everything feel and sound at that speed.Ropey as in rough ?
Is it starting first go .Still starving for fuel at all ?
Take it slow with the sync - small steps and give the throttle a short blip between each small adjustment and let it settle before checking gauges and continuing - what type of manometer are you using ?
I wouldnt give it a thrashing till you are sure of what the noise is .
Your carbs are almost identical to mine - just cosmetic differences.

swest wrote: Did you replace the springs? They can test good but act like that. /
I had a ticking at start up and the valves were noisy at certain RPM's. New springs, seals and valves. They sing like new. Red line comes quicker too.
Steve

No I didn't replace anything in the end just put everything back how it was on the shop mechanics recommendation. I may replace them at some point then, the bike only has 18, 000 miles on it though so I imagine they can't be too worn yet?

Zephyrrider wrote: SKK exactly how loud is the ticking - ticking is good up to a point - silence is not- can you do a very quick vid of it running .Not bad if you are getting the Ton (speedo display only goes to 80 MPH ?).How does everything feel and sound at that speed.Ropey as in rough ?
Is it starting first go .Still starving for fuel at all ?
Take it slow with the sync - small steps and give the throttle a short blip between each small adjustment and let it settle before checking gauges and continuing - what type of manometer are you using ?
I wouldnt give it a thrashing till you are sure of what the noise is .
Your carbs are almost identical to mine - just cosmetic differences.

The ticking isn't ridiculously loud just sounds like valve noise but it wasn't there before I took the cams off which is why I mentioned it, perhaps where I've disturbed the shims they've not got as much oil or residue under them any more keeping them quiet I guess? I think maybe I'm just being a bit paranoid about it thinking I've done something wrong when I put it back together. I'll do a quick video of the bike idling and try and do one of a run too so you can see how it is,
It didn't feel particularly rough or anything at that speed just perhaps that it was struggling to get up all the way? Maybe its just me I've been used to the Honda CBR very smooth and highly tuned so perhaps now its running better I'm over thinking it, it would be handy if I knew someone local who had a kz then I could compare it!
I've got a carb tune set, but its a 2 cylinder one, I'll do them 2 at a time and take it bit by bit like you say.
The speedo is because of weird US regulation I think, only shows up to 80mph, quite annoying might have to get hold of a UK one and swap it out.

Can you get hold of (borrow) a 4 cylinder manometer - that 2 aint gonna do the job mate.
If you are wealthy enough to buy some i would recommend the Carbtune Pro - very quick and easy to use.
By the sounds you have probably spent enough on it now anyway.
That CBR you had would been a fair bit revier and smoother i would reckon. .

Just as a rough guide what should I be expecting to get out of this bike top end mph wise? 120 maybe?
When I had the 550 zephyr I found it would cruise ok at around 70 -80 and top out at around 110 but it wasn't that comfortable over 80ish. How do the 750 kz's stand up to that kind of guide just so I know when I've got her running as should be expected.
Cheers

Zephyrrider wrote: Can you get hold of (borrow) a 4 cylinder manometer - that 2 aint gonna do the job mate.
If you are wealthy enough to buy some i would recommend the Carbtune Pro - very quick and easy to use.
By the sounds you have probably spent enough on it now anyway.
That CBR you had would been a fair bit revier and smoother i would reckon. .

Lol your right there I have spent a bit on it and still am, just brought some fresh oil and filter and still yet to do the fork seals and the back tyre needs replacing as its perishing round the side walls. I'll see if I can get hold of a four cylinder one, it would make life easier!

Actually I just checked mine is a carb tune pro, just a 2 cylinder one for some reason? Think I brought it years ago when I had the cg.