TOPIC:

SKK so you went through the resetting cam tensioner procedure as indicated in WSM - mine is different setup to yours and ya gotta get it exact- is it a metallic tapping noise you are getting now mate ?
Running worse than before at 5 k limit ?.
See how it goes with some fuel and not leaving prime on
Cant be slides mate - havnt you got a different set of carbs on now
Did you notice by hand how fast every slide returns when you had them off bike
Sometimes a prob can be like searching for an honest politician
Mick.
Sorry Steve

No offence taken and you're right.
Steve

JR; thanks for the link i had a look and im gonna PM the guy, maybe he sorted his problem? which sounds pretty much like mine.

Mick: I did follow the WSM and the haynes as well. when i set the cam chain i pulled the chain taut at the exhaust side with it in tdc and set the cams to the z7ex and 'in' marks bang on with the top of the head, and counted out the 46 links. But when i took the chain off the first time i forgot to mark it up where it was originally and lost the setting so i dont actually know if it was actually off by however many teeth or not stupidly. it seems like it must be in the right position now but i will check the timing once again with the strobe gun when i get a chance.

I might tear it down again and make sure i mark it up this time before i loosen the cam caps and then move it over one notch from where it is now, i guess theres a chance i could of just put it back the same as it was before without realising :?
Any ideas which direction it is more likely to make a difference to the timing, ie advancing or retarding the chain one tooth notch?

When it fires up all 4 cylinders warm up relatively quickly and the noise is kind of like a high pitched tapping or rattling i think? ill try and record it and load it up on here.

Mines the automatic tensioner type, i just seated it in without the bolt spring cap bit on then cranked the engine by hand until the chain slack was taken up on one side and then fitted the right angle cap as per the manuals.

Slides seemed to take a few seconds to come down when i checked em with the air vents covered so think they are all good?

SKK sounds like you have the cam timing right - Crank turned until TDC mark for #1 and #4 on timing rotor is aligned with line timing mark - chain pulled taut on exhaust side with both marks aligned perfectly with top of engine and the 1 st link starting at Z7EX and 45th on top and 46th under the IN mark at 46 links.
Always thought too retarded timing will give low power and excessive wear and too advanced it will ping and overheat - someone might like to correct me on that if i am wrong
Is that noise you have now like a rattling a tin can of tiny ball bearings ?
Mick.

Look at the plugs.
Steve

SKK any progress mate ? Mick.

Hey mate yeah actually have made a little progress, I think may have pinpointed the problem now. Haven't had much chance to do a lot to the bike cos of the baby and other stuff recently but I took it down the bike shop last week and the guy had a listen, said generally sounds ok apart from a little tapping noise in the rocker head and he thought it sounded like air was leaking in around the carbs. So reckon the tapping is something I've done from when I took the cams off, sounds like valve noise so not sure what I've done there but will sort that another time it doesn't seem to be making too much of a difference to the bike atm. The air leak I replaced the carb to manifold inlet rubbers and runs a lot better but still not revving over 6k.
However Ive since noticed that whenever I ride it now when I first warm the bike up and pull away there is loads of power and its nice and smooth, then about 100 yards down the road it starts sounding a bit rough again abit like the slides are slapping about abit and then there is no power again over 6k. If I pull over, turn the engine off, prime the carbs and then pull away again I cab get it well above 6k and get some top end out of it.
So, seems to me like its only getting enough fuel at idle and then running out of fuel after pullway. any ideas what would cause this problem? Float height maybe? Weird that this was the same on 2 sets of carbs?

thought I'd mention to recap: ive already set the float heights to standard, diapraghms are good, taken the exhaust recycling system off, only one vacuum hose going from carbs to petcock, checked petcock and fuel filters are clean, ran bike with fuel cap open etc. Seens vacuum or carbs related still though I think? Only thing I haven't done yet is sync the carbs.

Special KK wrote: thought I'd mention to recap: ive already set the float heights to standard, diapraghms are good, taken the exhaust recycling system off, only one vacuum hose going from carbs to petcock, checked petcock and fuel filters are clean, ran bike with fuel cap open etc. Seens vacuum or carbs related still though I think? Only thing I haven't done yet is sync the carbs.

Sync likely won't influence higher rpm performance.
Perhaps fuel starvation.
Double-check that fuel is flowing freely from inside the tank, through the petcock, and from the petcock.
If not already done, would assure that the petcock screens that protrude into the fuel tank are clear and unclogged.

Good Fortune!

I did take the tap out and check the filters and dismantle the petcock etc, all seemed pretty clean and free flowing, I put new fuel filter also and can see the fuel flowing through it when I switch the tap to prime.
Floats then perhaps?

Is there any other areas I should look at regarding vacuum? Ie some simple tests I could do to make sure the pressure is drawing the fuel thorugh ok perhaps?

Mate not familiar with that recycling crap - dont have it here
You do have a rubber vacumn line from each carb front that all join into 1 and then into back of fuel tap ?