TOPIC:

SKK just went for a run out to my local dam - about 20 miles all up - Zephyr didnt feel quite perfect - tiny bit of hesitation off the mark and a little primary noise
Got back - put on Morgans - #4 about 3- 4 cmhg down on rest
Balanced to within 1 cmhg of each other - took 5 minutes
Instant throttle response - no primary noise - motor "has" only done about 11,000 miles since complete top and bottom rebuild - brilliant bit of kit those Carb Tunes,

Ok mate that's good I will definitely get hold of some fours and balance them out properly.
I replaced the copper exhaust gaskets, expensive things, £21 for four, made bugger all difference.
I will balance the carbs but Im beginning to think that maybe the carbs are just still not letting the proper amount of fuel through and that's maybe my problem, it feels lean still so kinda makes sense.
I know I tried another set of carbs but perhaps its just these types of carbs because they were both gunked up originally. I wonder if it is worth getting them sent off to be sonically cleaned?

One other thing I've noticed is the clutch is very stiff, to the point that it hurts my fingers to ride.
I've got some arthritis in them from riding anyway so its not helping unfortunately, but is this normal with these kwakas to have a really stiff clutch or does it mean my clutch isn't quite right. It doesn't slip or anything and functions ok. My zephyr and Honda weren't this stiff though.

SKK - bugger thought that was your ticking sound - those gaskets are not cheap
You have already cleaned those damn carbs thoroughly havnt you mate (with carb cleaner and compressor)- every single orifice is clear and all your floats heights are right + or - @1 mm above the bottom edge of carb body - just above were the main body joins to the float bowls ? You aren't getting any weeps or leaks from carbs are you ? The fuel tap is fine - you have had a look at it ?.Have you got another filter you can try.What are you air mixture screws set at now.
How is your clutch cables condition - have you got a cable lubber and given it a good clean and lube - i use brake cleaner to clean cable with a lubber - leave it for a while use a bit of paper at clutch bottom to make sure cleaner runs right through and pushes all the crap out and give it a few minutes then lube with a silicon type lube with paper again to make sure it runs through - have only ridden a couple of Z1000's and their clutch's were not hard to use although compared to the Zephyr they were - as you know Zephyrs are very light.

Your plugs will tell you if it's lean or not. Get to the stopped in question, hit the kill switch and hold in the clutch until stopped. Check the plugs.
The clutch can be hard. Try lubing the worm drive inside the case. They also make a easy pull clutch actuator that has ball bearings. I haven't used one except on my old Honda but if miss-adjusted you will hear a pop and have no clutch. Kinda tricky.
Steve

SKK your clutch cable is direct to the clutch release lever isnt it ? None of that farking pain in the ass stuff like on GPZ 1100's

Sorry havent been on here for a while and had left the KZ alone as it was doing my head in. Got it out the other day after it was sitting for about a month or so in the garage under cover and she fired up straight away and idling sweet after warming up for a bit.

Ive been tinkering with her again but unable to ride it as the Clutch is as stiff as hell now, worse than before for some reason? ive put the original bars back on as the others didn't allow for much play on the cables, so now the cables are routed nicely and the clutch cable was also put on as new a couple of months ago and checked it so no probs with it being seized etc.
I took the side casing off where the worm drive is and that seems lubed and good, but i cant get the clutch to set up right when i put it all back together no matter what i do. The Clutch seems to be really stiff and only bites at a very high point, practically stalling when i go to change gear. The pushrod worm drive thing im setting to its furthest screwed 'out' setting when i put it back together and have tried setting it 'in' also too but to no avail, ive never had this problem before.
Not sure if my clutch unit is buggered?

Zephyrrider: yeah it is pain in the ass set up like the gpz's unfortunately, much prefer the direct drives.

Clutch plates are sticking. Adjust it normally and ride it. If it doesn't free up, you may have to separate them by hand.
Steve

Ok thanks, ill give it a good ride. Does it mean the clutch plates are badly worn or anything?

SKK your bike hasnt got a centrestand ? I would warm it up once a week for a little while mate.

Yeh have got centre stand. Will run it today see how it goes if still crap I'll take the clutch out and seperate by hand.

Took the clutch out today. The metal slipper plates look good no blueing or scorch marks, the friction plates feel very smooth and look really thin, measured them up they are all at 3.6-3.7 mm, service manual says the limit is 3.5mm no idea how thick these plates are meant to be new, seem very near the usable limit though perhaps, so may just buy a new friction kit. The springs are similar 34.5mm length service limit is 33.9, when i unscrewed the spring plate the bolts came undone really easily as if there was not a lot of pressure on the plate is this normal for these clutches anyone know? or indication of springs needing replacing even though within service limit?

No by themselves they don't have much load. You should be good to go for a while. Did you grease the clutch arm under the sprocket cover?
Steve