TOPIC:

If plug hole threads are imperfect after the extraction, but may contain sufficient material to be re-tapped, it's of course critical to get the tap correctly started.

Sometimes a reverse tap (aka back tap) tool provides a solution by beginning the tap at the deep end of the plug hole where the threads may be in better condition.



www.kzrider.com/forum/advsearch?q=backta...ldforums=1&catids=21

Good Fortune!

Cool, thanks. Just thought it might be a good exercise. Cam degree-ing is a bit mystical for me - doing something like that where I can visualize it all would help my comprehension.

Patton wrote: If plug hole threads are imperfect after the extraction, but may contain sufficient material to be re-tapped, it's of course critical to get the tap correctly started.

Sometimes a reverse tap (aka back tap) tool provides a solution by beginning the tap at the deep end of the plug hole where the threads may be in better condition.

Good Fortune!

I tried heat with a propane torch, but I don't really have anything at the moment to get a good grip with. All good suggestions that I will try. I'm sure this plug hole will need to be cleaned up whether with a front or back tap once I get it out.

I'm just really glad the piston wasn't frozen ... hopefully that means there wasn't a ton of corrosion. I was really scared after having to pound the pistons free in the 750 motor.

buy something like this to start with. u should be able to find a set at most auto or large hardware stores for like $10.




www.toolprice.com/category/screwextractors.spiraleasyout/

check out the legality of running the 750 head before u put any money into this 1 though.

Thanks, I actually wonder if I should try putting it back in the head a bit before trying to back it out again, too. I'll try to see if I can get some "release" agent in there first and let it sit.

After drilling (right-hand or left-hand bit) or tapping or picking, any metal remnants may be removed from the combustion chamber with a small telescope magnet and/or vacuum.

Good Fortune!

It looks like it has broken off into the head. so it should turn either way.

Patton, why are we talking about drilling? isnt it a little early for that ?
i would only get the drill out as a last resort. only if the easy-out attempts failed.

mark1122 wrote: ...would only get the drill out as a last resort. only if the easy-out attempts failed.

Yes, if easy-out attempt fails.

Good Fortune!

Can anyone confirm for me that there are two bolts inside the cam chain tunnel holding the head to the cylinders?

I think that is what my manual is showing, but it's not very clear. Apparently I need better lighting in my shop too....

Thanks in advance!

Yes, there are bolts inside the cam chain tunnel - one on either end.

Thank you sir. Glad to know you're around still.

I Don't Think This Will Buff Out

The top end is off the engine and I have started bagging/tossing pieces.

First, the good news. The bike appears to have the original Kawasaki tool kit! Hooray! I'll have to take the tools out to make sure it's not just the original pouch, although even the pouch is in bad shape...





The bad news, I think the #2 sleeve is too rusted to be cleaned up and used. Going to see what others think, but it feels too significant to my amateur sense of touch to be cleaned up/honed/re-ringed. I think it would have to be bored out which would put me out of the class limits for Middleweight.