TOPIC:

dont see any point running higher exhausts. they often run less height on exht, than intake.
thanks for the Brake line configuration post.

Put together a quick wiring diagram. Swear I'm forgetting something, it seems way too simple.




Don't need lights on the tach or speedo. No blinkers, tail light, head light.

Edit:Added oil pressure switch and neutral switch. The yellow globes are the bulbs. Probably should move them onto their own fuse, too. Assume it's drawn that way...

DD's brake line info post pretty much says it all. I went with the setup that I have because it is how they were routed on the GSXR. It was easy to measure and I figure that I may sacrifice a tiny bit of feel to help clean up the look of my bike. Honestly, the braking seems completely fine to me. I have had to make a few quick stops, and I don't notice it pulling to one side or anything like that.

For a race bike, the best bet is the long dual line setup straight from the master. I actually have a Galfer set like that for my zx-10 that I have yet to install. Just waiting for a good reason to pull my fairings before I do it. In reality, unless you have both lines the same length, you still have a microsecond difference between when the pressure hits the right caliper and then the left. This means having one line too long and one just right. Just sayin'. Don't overthink it. You will know what to do when you start racing. When your brake line routing starts holding you back, then it's time to eek out that last little 0.25% improvement.

Good point. If the brake lines keep me from sucking I'll change them, otherwise whatever is easiest. My guess is that the operator will be the issue for the first 5-10 years doing this.

DoubleDub wrote: Good point. If the brake lines keep me from sucking I'll change them, otherwise whatever is easiest. My guess is that the operator will be the issue for the first 5-10 years doing this.

I bet you pick it up pretty fast in the first year. The initial learning curve for anything is always steepest.

As for your wiring diagram, are you kick starting or bump starting? Not sure if it may be an issue, but having an electric starter, while heavy, might save your ass if you stall on the starting grid. Trying to kick a stalled bike through on the grid while everyone screams away could be rather dis-heartening. I probably wouldn't run one either, but once again, just sayin'.

Bump/push start.

The kick might be a quick-release type for pit-starting, but it has to be removed (something about impaling children, not sure ).

I saw a guy stall on the grid. Looks like the prefered method is to get the F out of the way and then push start after everyone has gone by.

That said, the 650 feels much lighter than my 900 and I'm not that worried about push starting it.

I figured you had a plan. I was just throwing it out there to make sure you had thought about it.

Personally, I miss the old 2 stroke GP races where they all had to push start off the grid. I wonder if Dani Pedrosa would such a good starter if he had to push start that rig?

The little GP bikes do that in the AHRMA:

I spoke briefly with this guy this last year about his bike. The guy on the Z1R and Guzzi were top two for all races, I believe. They were just up in another class by themselves.

His other video from the weekend. I love watching these - can't wait to get on track. Too bad it won't be this next year. At least I can look forward to the race class.

Edit: whoops - forgot the video:

That video is perfect. All they lack is some hay bales on the corners.

looks like fun.