TOPIC:

ThatYeti wrote:

Thanks, will see if I can figure that out, but given it never blows when I'm running the original flasher, is it likely that there's actually a short somewhere?

It is a strange one but I can see no reason for. a change of flasher drawing enough current to blow the main fuse ?? below is what you have, orange goes to the flasher switch - brown is ignition live and black is ground
EDIT: it is possible that if you have a "partial short" (remember it doesn't blow as soon as you operate the flashers) the mechanical flasher may be absorbing the additional current flow (hence the erratic operation)

 

Ok, got all the bulbs out, though getting the cluster bulb was a nightmare and I'm pretty sure I ruined the headlight in the process.

With it all hooked up I'm not getting zero but really close. Key on or off makes no difference. When I flick the blinker it'll spike to something between 25-85 and then go back down to next to nothing. (See pics)

Ok, so apparently the headlight is a lot easier to assemble if you get the lens out. Odd smattering of wires inside, not sure it's related but seemed odd.

The insulation on the black wire with the yellow stripe that is hanging out of the headlight bucket seems to have some of its insulation rubbed away.

Thanks didn't notice that, ok to just wrap it in electrical tape? Seems like it's been a really long time since it's been opened and the headlight works fine for what it's worth.

Any chance that's what's causing the issue with the flasher?  Any insight on the readings and the worn wire would be appreciated.

So yes it could be contributing to the issue, it looks like the ground and the red/yellow (headlight low beam) have rubbed through and have been arcing, possible on the edge of the headlight housing. As the US models don't have a light switch this would mean that a partial short here would "load" the ignition circuit above normal whenever the ignition is on. When the flashers are operated this further adds load to the ignition circuit which may be enough to overpower the fuse after a short period of operation. I would suggest separating the other wires in the headlamp and check for further signs of rubbing through (pay particular attention to the green and grey wires). The voltage readings you achieved are minimal 0.08v and may simply be down to a corroded bulb holder etc causing minor leakage.

 

Understood and thank you. To add though mine has a headlight switch, but it only lets you select between hi beam and lo beam so if your point was that it's always drawing power then I think the logic holds.

ThatYeti wrote:

Understood and thank you. To add though mine has a headlight switch, but it only lets you select between hi beam and lo beam so if your point was that it's always drawing power then I think the logic holds.

Just an FYI the European KZ's have a two position switch on the right handlebar - first position is tail light/instruments/front marker light - second position adds headlight low beam - they then have the Hi-Lo that you have on the left handlebar switch
PS: also worth checking is on the wiring diagram it shows a turn signal "beeper" ( only on 75 model but worth checking you don't have one as it is tied into the orange wire)

Good to know and will see if I can find anything, but only 'beeping' I ever heard when the blinkers were going came from the flasher module itself and was more of a click.  But the orange wire you're talking about is the one that connects into the flasher that I'd used the test light on correct? Other than wrapping the worn wires with electrical tape, anything else I should be checking?

Just check that no other wires in the headlamp are worn through while you are in there

Ok, so those wires just had dust on them apparently, not worn at all. Did notice a two wires that terminate in a couple but don't connect to anything though, see below, not sure what they are meant for but all look as old as everything else.