3D printing

Well folks, I’ve been at it again.
Whether it be from being impatient or frugal, or both… I’ve got some more 3D files if folks want them. 
back story: when I got my kz700, it had (the same thing as) no rear turn signals. So I fabricobbled some together from some steel tubing and trailer indicators. While browsing eBay, I came across some rear signals that were chromed for a different model. But the size and shape were identical. The chrome was flaking and peeling so I didn’t feel too bad. Paid $32 for a pair of rear signals. Now, my bike uses a rubber insert that the signals go into. Same Diamond shape, but smaller cross section. I found that removing the insert, there’s a larger diamond hole. And a perfect match for the indicators I got. I did not have the spacer with the Diamond cutout for the washer to hold the base tight. So I 3D printed one from TPU. It works perfect. Then, upon cleaning up the signals for painting, I found that one lens gasket was toast. It shattered into 12 pieces when I pulled it from the back of the lens. So I printed one of those, too. Perfect fit.

   

If anyone wants one or both files, I’m happy to share them. No charge.

I also re-plated the metal reflectors(?) inside the turn signal bodies with zinc. I can do a write up on that if anyone is interested. Only using stuff from local big box store.  With a little patience and a fair amount of concern for safety/health, I think anyone could do it. 


 

I am interested in your zinc process, if you have the time to write it up.

Admins, if this is deemed too risky, please delete.

!EXTREME CAUTION!
There are two methods I know of. One provides a stronger plating and is faster, but is massively more dangerous.
Please do your own research on how to handle Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) safely. This includes storage, use, how to neutralize, and disposal.

That being said....
Required:
Excessive ventilation
PPE like nitrile gloves, face shield, maybe a nitrile or rubber based apron
Power supply capable of 5V at 1amp, tolerant of being shorted out
2 liter of water (deionized, filtered, cleanest you can get)
Approximately 1 tablespoon of sodium hydroxide crystals (i use this from my local walmart:  myinstantpower.com/product/crystal-lye-drain-opener/ )
Have everything available and ready to handle spills/splashes.
Plastic container to hold solution, preferably with a lid that can be used to mitigate some of the fine mist produced in the process. Red solo cups are absolutely forbidden.
Zinc source (some small round, copper plated discs that are no longer being produced in the US are copper plated zinc. you can melt the zinc out with a propane torch. Don't breathe the fumes from this, either!)

This is only to be used on steel hardware. Mechanically and chemically cleaned. As in all rust/oxidation removed. Then all greases and oils removed.
I use a wire wheel, followed by scrubbing with either 90% isopropyl or acetone.

WEAR ALL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT
Prepare the solution:
pour the 2 liters of water into your container. slowly, add the lye crystals. over a few small batches. Adding the lye is exothermic (releases heat). So add a little, stir, and wait a minute or two before adding the rest. This isnt melt the container kind of heat, but no harm in taking your time.

Using a small alligator clip, hang the sacrificial zinc into the solution. Your power source's positive side is connected to the zinc. The zinc in solution will go from (+) zinc -> (-) steel.
If your power supply is capable, limit it to 100 milliamps.
using either a clip or a bit of copper wire, hang whatever you want plated on the opposite side of the container from the zinc. Touching the two sides together is bad.

Connect the negative from your power source to the thing you want to plate. As soon as power is supplied, you should see small bubbles forming on the steel being plated.
Low current  (milliamps) = slower plating, minimal to no heat generation.
High current  = fast, rough, poorly adhering, increased heat output. If your steel looks "fuzzy" after only a minute or two, the current is way too high.
WEAR ALL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT
For the clips on my turn signals, those were one at a time. About 10 minutes of plating. They come out looking a dull gray. I was running at about 5v, limited to 300 milliamps.
When you want to check your progress, remove power from either side, positive or negative. Then pull the steel piece out, and rinse in a LOT of water, or swish around in some white vinegar.
After it dries, you can gently use a softer bristled wire brush to reveal the shiny zinc plating under the dull gray.

Notes:
WEAR ALL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT
Do not do this is an enclosed space.
Assume all hardware used in this is "contaminated" and should be handled with caution.
The solution can be stored long term for later use. Make sure to label it appropriately. the more the solution is used, the better it will work. More zinc will be held in solution for plating availability.
Try plating only half of something steel. So you can spot the visual "color" difference.
Recesses are harder to plate (electroplating = path of least resistance)
Sharp edges will plate easier. Like thread peaks.
During the plating process, hydrogen gas will be released. Hydrogen is lighter than air, and very flammable (See: Hindenberg)

Any questions, I will do my best to answer.

No issue from my point of view, everybody here is a grown up and need to do their own "due diligence" when using chemicals or machinery