TOPIC:

Be sure to post the pics;) Remember we all LIKE pics!!

or you could have used some cheap spray can primer and had sanding sctratches and shrinkage and reactions show up every where. The final out come is only as good as the prep work underneath. After all is it really that expensive if it ends up looking good. It sounds as if your brother knows what he is doing. I would make him look over all your stuff before you start spraying primer.

watch the omni clears, have had a few issues in the past with them. the clears have not held up as well as the ppg stuff

Really, What was the problem with it? we have a couple vehicles around the house that have omni on them for several years and they seem to be holding up very well.
even if it dosn't have the greatist durability i still think it is well worth the money.

BSKZ650 wrote:

watch the omni clears, have had a few issues in the past with them. the clears have not held up as well as the ppg stuff

then well uh?
I guess the next owner will get mad? im just fixing it up and probably going to sell it anyways after the season. unkess its more comfortable on my back than the Seca. I am seeing a height issue here is all. I cant be hunched at all or My back will lock up badly.

But on a side note, my brother uses it on $50,000 cars everyday and it seems fine as long as its mixed properly and maintained well.

Post edited by: ran429, at: 2006/03/15 20:46

I painted a few sprint car bodies/ parts, the wings and such dont last long enough to see how the paint will hold up, but the body parts got a lot of chips marks on the clear,I painted one with the ppg clear and it held up great no chips or marks for the whole season or until it got crashed which ever came first

Did you already buy the clearcoat?

What type of paint/primer did you get?

is it Omni AU MBC basecoat? MR186 reducer?
What about the primer? The best stuff, and probably what he reccomended was PPG NCP-270, or NCP-271(difference between 270/271 is just the color)? I'd guess that's what you have, since you say it was expensive. I think the last gallon I bought was arond $170. Remember $12 a gallon redoxide laquer primer?!

I'd go with Matrix clearcoat if you haven't already bought that. Omni Clear isn't as good, and Matrix is about the same price. You will have an easier time shooting the matrix clear. Matrix MS-20 clear is the formula (that the patent ran up on) for PPG 2020 clearcoat. It is the same stuff, and since PPG doesn't carry the 2020 anymore, Matrix is the only place to get it. I have switched to DC-3000 and DC-4000 clearcoat from PPG because you can spray it, and 45 minutes later you can wetsand it, buff it, and mount it. DC-3000 is faster than the 4000, but the 4000 is better if you are painting a whole car, because by the time you get back around to where you started, the DC-3000 is already dry to the touch and leaves nasty overspray. The 3000 is really good for small pieces. The best thing about the 3000 is, 20 minutes after you shoot it(or usually by the time you get the gun cleaned out and things put away, you can lay a sheet of newspaper down on the fresh paint, and pull it right back up. It dries that quick. Of course, DC-3000 is about $220 a gallon.

If you can't find a supplier for Matrix clear, let me know.

Omni basecoat is nice stuff on a budget, but be careful of the TDS reccomendations and note that it isn't a reactive reducer, so if you have to sand anything out you'll have to wait a little longer than usual before you can start sanding.

happy painting!

For those times when it just doesn't matter:

Cheap high build Primer

Cheap Basecoat and Clearcoat

I feel your pain in the $$$ for the color and supplies.I paid $70 for a PINT of 87 ford turadore red with 15 grams xtra of metalic and flop control in it.I just about fell over when they told me the price after they mixed it.But the final product came out BITCHEN

Post edited by: rammy, at: 2006/03/17 11:04

Seriously, how easy is it to screw up painting?

I am an A-M-A-T-E-U-R and I am considering dumping just under $300.00 into some DuPont products. I have access to a bead-blaster and a paint-booth at an Air-Force Auto-Hobby shop.

I spent $500.00 getting my frame, swingarm, mounts, kick and center stands powdercoated, so I really don't want to cheap out on the paint, but the labor'd be another 3-4 hunnert.

But what other options does the DIY'er have besides (crappy) Krylon or (hard to use) two-and-thee-part urethanes and clearcoats?

Watta Connundrum.

Post edited by: indytwin, at: 2006/03/17 11:48

Man kindda salty, I used PPG paint when I did mine. Got 3 pints of paint, black,red,gold, a pint of primer, 2 gal of thinner, QT of clear and the hardner, and all the sand paper I needed for $127.00. But that was 5 years ago

Does a paint exist that is both easy to use and provides a lusterous, long-lasting finish?

Surfing the WWW says that there are 2 alternatives to multi-component urethanes: 1. Laquer (which it turns out isn't manufactured anymore b/c of EPA regs) and 2. Water-based paints such as "Auto-Air"

Anyone have any experience with these? They're supposed to be easier to use without screwing up.