TOPIC:

Hey Guys,

I have just finished stripping/sandblasting this ole girl down to the barebones. I need some help with figuring out which type of primor and paint I should be using on this. In my other restoration projects (All have been Cars) I have used Rustoleum, always had goodluck and works well for minor rusting, etc. But I am wondering if there is a better product for bike frams because they seem to take a bit of a beating it seems. Any advice would be great.

Thanks.
PeachC

If the frame is disassembled (removed swingarm and bearings, etc), suggest you consider powdercoat. It is more durable than rattle can paint. If you do rattle can, I like Krylon filling primer and Krylon Ultra Satin. The Krylon stuff dries VERY fast and doesn't run even if you are a ham fisted rattle can painter like me... It is also pretty durable. Satin or flat paint on the frame tends not to show imperfections in the prep and that is why I prefer it over gloss.

The problem with powdercoat is that it chips, and there is no easy way to repair it. After starting with powdercoat, most (if not all) the guys that rebuild Bronco's have switched to POR-15 because it is much tougher than powdercoat, POR-15 is like a Timex watch, "It takes a licking and keeps on ticking"

I plan on using Sterling Silver from POR-15 on mine.

I'm getting good with this Links thing

Post edited by: steell, at: 2006/02/01 14:41

maybe a dumb question but do they have POR-15 in rattlecans?

I really hope you don't mind me hijacking the thread a bit...

Has anyone thought about using spray-can pickup-truck bedliner for frames?

I see this stuff at AutoZone and I get to thinking that there can't be anything tougher than that, right?

Just wondering...
I've been hearing negative things about powder coating lately.

Like the heat process can have an adverse effect on the parts. Also it blocks holes and makes things bigger so reassembly is harder. I have a friend who has recently had a rim powdercoated and now can't get the bead to pop. This is with over 100 PSI in the tire and they still can't get it.
Can someone clarify?

Also wondering if it's better to strip metal parts completely prior to paint. I've always read it was better to NOT go down to bare metal. The original paint is supposed to act as the primer. Is this true?

Or... when is it better to strip completely vs. just sanding original finish?

Biquetoast, My friend used the stuff on his Suzuki. He used it on the frame, and on the sidecovers and stuff. Because of the texture it was kind of cool. Like when the Star Boyz first donned fur covered bikes. But is it something to live with every day? I guess if done correctly anything is cool...

Usually...it's best to try to keep as much of the original paint on the parts as you can. They generally are baked on at the factory so original paint makes for a very good base to paint on. Sand the paint best you can, put on some primer (if the best finish you can get is a little rough, use primer/filler cause it's thicker then regular primer and helps fill in minor scratchs and such), sand it smooth and lay on your paint. AS far as the frame goes, I try to get mine sandblasted so it's got a uniform surface to paint on. You can try to sand the nicks, etc. out if you want...just depends how much time and effort you want to put into it. My dragbike has the frame powdercoated and I'm trying to find some way of getting it off. It looks great while it's new but is brittle and chips fairly easy and about the only way to repair a chip is to paint the spot. That's what I've got now...painted pwdercoating! I've heard it weakens the parts also, but haven't heard if it's enough to worry about though. Any of you guys know how to remove pwdercoating?

Caswell sells a powdercoating stripper.

Caswell

I'm not an expert on painting but have been involved in selling surface preparation equipment with paint systems over the years.
Theres a lot to be said for powdercoating or ecoat or baked enamel. As with anything, the finish will depend very much on the preparation that went into it. I dont understand how guy's spend hundreds of dollars doing up their ride and then skimp on the finish.
Paint needs something to hang on to! not just stick to this is referred to as an anchor pattern. The best finish will be achieved if the base has a uniform etched type of finish. Bead Blasting using glass bead will work or grit blasting using an aluminum oxide will also work. The surface must then be thoroughly cleaned and de-dusted befor applying a primer.
A lot of Automotive lines will have a water wash (to clean the part), a phosphate rinse (to chemically etch the metal) and then a water rinse and a dryer phase before the first coat is applied.
Sanding old paint works well and unless you go through the original top coat and prime coat to the base metal you probably wont need to apply a primer. Be careful that you dont go too aggressive with the sanding as the lines or scrapes caused by the sanding may show up in the finished coat.
Don't give humidity an opportunity to get a hold, the coating needs to be applied before the base metal starts to oxidize. The primer will act both as a sealer and as an anchor to the top coat.

Hope this is helpful and no I have'nt recoated by own Bike.

Thanks Steell. Was told once you powdercoat...can't go back. Was going to sandblast but place where I have mine done wouldn't do it. This looks like it may be the way to go. Thanks for the info.

I have heard the same thing about PowderCoating though, that it does have a tendensy to chip away and there is no real way of fixing it. I ended up using the Kyrlon Primer and Krylon Paint on the frame this time around and seems to have worked great. The topcoat came out awesome, once it dries, i will post pics to see what you guys think. I just need to let it harden before I put a finishign topcoat on it. I do agree with the sandblasting though, it did do wonders on the frame, but I also did use wired stripper at the end to clean/finish up the parts to the absolute bar medal.

Here is a link to my post a couple of weeks ago. The primer/paint is listed. The frame looks even betterin person than in the pictures.
Mark

kzrider.com/component/option,com_joomlab...id,6/id,18560/#18560