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new drive chain, more questions! 18 Sep 2006 18:08 #77725

  • tcbradbury98
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I just bought a "new" drive chain. Should it have come w/ a master link? Can I use the one from my old one? Thanks




1983 KZ550 C4 LTD

Post edited by: tcbradbury98, at: 2006/09/24 19:23

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new drive chain 18 Sep 2006 19:04 #77735

  • RonKZ650
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All new chains include a new masterlink.
321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.

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new drive chain 18 Sep 2006 19:04 #77736

  • ltdrider
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If the chain is 'new', then it should come with two master links. One for press fit and clip, and one for the rivet-on style.

BTW,
I changed my chain a month ago and didn't change the front sprocket. Everyone that responded thought that it was a BAD idea not to change the sprocket as well. they're not expensive, about $14 form Z1Enterprises.
'76 KZ900 LTD (Blaze)
'96 Voyager XII (Dark Star)
'79 KZ650 Cafe Project (Dirty Kurt)
Greensboro, NC

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new drive chain 18 Sep 2006 19:07 #77737

  • Sandy
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They don't always come with a master link.There are 2 different types of master links...rivetted and circlip types.
For peace of mind,I would put a NEW one on.
I've always only used the circlip type,and haven't had one fail.Just make sure You install the circlip with the rounded part going with the drive direction.B)
1977 KZ1000 A-1

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new drive chain 18 Sep 2006 19:22 #77738

  • tcbradbury98
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Thanks for the responses, I guess I will pick one up at the dealer when my new air filter and rear sprocket come in. I take it I need to replace the front sprocket too? I believe the factory one is a 13/38 combo. A 14 would give me better highway performance, right? Would I have to shorten or lengthen my 530-100 chain? How hard is the front sprocket to change? I have done a whole lot of wrenching on cars, just not on bikes.

Post edited by: tcbradbury98, at: 2006/09/18 22:48

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new drive chain 19 Sep 2006 09:26 #77820

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Correction, factory is a 16/38 combo, thanks for the replies on the chain.

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new drive chain 19 Sep 2006 09:59 #77826

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In theory the front sprocket is easy to change. You need to remove the engine cover, that means removing the shift lever, left footpeg and starter cover. Now your sprocket is clearly visible, flatten the lockwasher, put on a big socket and remove the nut. This is when the "in theory easy to remove" comes in, the nut can be anywhere from finger tight to 300 ft/lb tight. Once you get the sprocket off a 1 tooth change should not require a different length of chain. I should change my "all chains come with a masterlink" to every chain I've ever seen has come with a masterlink. In my mind if it doesn't come with a masterlink it must be one of those great deals,(otherwise known as a Chinese POS). How in the World do they expect you to use a chain without a masterlink? I suspect different brands of chain have slightly different diameter pins ect, "brand A" masterlink is not a good idea to use with a "brand B" chain.
321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.

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new drive chain 19 Sep 2006 10:39 #77836

  • KawasakiBob
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You're right.

Most of the brands of chains nowadays have a slight variance in the masterlink so that you have to use that particular brand masterlink.

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new drive chain 19 Sep 2006 11:16 #77851

  • tcbradbury98
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Well, the chain is a Lemans pro series, I don't think it is an o-ring chain, but it has never been used. It was sitting on a shelf at the parts store, but it didn't have a masterlink w/ it. Thanks for all the useful info.

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new drive chain 19 Sep 2006 11:39 #77855

  • hwms
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tcbradbury98 wrote:

Well, the chain is a Lemans pro series, I don't think it is an o-ring chain, but it has never been used. It was sitting on a shelf at the parts store, but it didn't have a masterlink w/ it. Thanks for all the useful info.


Note:
The master links for "O" ring chains have slightly longer pins than the ones for standard chain.

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new drive chain 19 Sep 2006 12:13 #77868

  • OnkelB
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RonKZ650 wrote:

In theory the front sprocket is easy to change. You need to remove the engine cover, that means removing the shift lever, left footpeg and starter cover. Now your sprocket is clearly visible, flatten the lockwasher, put on a big socket and remove the nut. This is when the "in theory easy to remove" comes in, the nut can be anywhere from finger tight to 300 ft/lb tight.


To which I´ll add a useful little tip I learned the first time I changed a front sprocket: loosen the sprocket nut before you remove the chain, that way you can use the chain to hold the sprocket by applying the rear brake.
77 KZ 650 B1, 82 GPz 1100 B2.

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new drive chain 19 Sep 2006 12:18 #77869

  • KawasakiBob
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Lemans chains all are supposeed to include a masterlink.

I'd call the shop you got it at and ask them for one.

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