Speedometer Gear

I wish there was a place in the forum for non Kawa bikes. I have a 77 KZ650 that I got as a gift, but I also have a1976 Honda 650. The speedometer gear at the wheel. spins around and around, causing the speedo cable to pop out. Im sure this isnt normal.

What would cause the speedo gear on the wheel go round and around? I can rotate it with my hand!

AlexRocco wrote:

I wish there was a place in the forum for non Kawa bikes. I have a 77 KZ650 that I got as a gift, but I also have a1976 Honda 650. The speedometer gear at the wheel. spins around and around, causing the speedo cable to pop out. Im sure this isnt normal.

What would cause the speedo gear on the wheel go round and around? I can rotate it with my hand!

There would normally be some sort of "lug" on the fork leg the drive engages with so that doesn't happen

Wookie58 wrote:

AlexRocco wrote:

I wish there was a place in the forum for non Kawa bikes. I have a 77 KZ650 that I got as a gift, but I also have a1976 Honda 650. The speedometer gear at the wheel. spins around and around, causing the speedo cable to pop out. Im sure this isnt normal.

What would cause the speedo gear on the wheel go round and around? I can rotate it with my hand!

There would normally be some sort of "lug" on the fork leg the drive engages with so that doesn't happen

 

Thanks, but im very frustrated. my stupid cousin took the bike to a shop to get the tires changed while I was at school. I think the shop messed it up and I dont know whats missing. I dont even know if its safe to ride like that with the gear spinning. It makes me think something else might be loose. Here is a photo of the fiche of the wheel. Its #15 that spins round and around.

 

If it was mine, I would remove the front wheel and carefully lay out all those pieces in the exact order they are installed and carefully compare to the picture. Also be certain number 7 is between the bearings. If it is missing, the bearings can sink too far into the wheel and that might cause the problem. Also, carefully inspect the drive mechanism and the fork on that side to insure that whatever is supposed to prevent the problem is present and undamaged. Some pictures will help forum members in diagnosing the problem.

Ditto everyone's comments but note Honda didn't make a 1976 CB650?? Maybe a 550 or 750? Regardless, all those Honda front spoked wheels of that era were basically the same hub/bits and axle design. The assembly needs to be tightened-up as a unit before installation onto forks. Make sure Part#8 ears fit into Cover#9's slots. Then make sure dogs of speedometer drive #15 fit into matching dogs of #8. Slide axle thru #15 first, continue pushing thru hub bearings till axle seats. Then install short spacer and nut/spacer with socket portion facing hub. Tighten to correct torque. At this point if everything is assembled correctly the whole assembly should rotate easily within the hub and you can verify operation of speedo drive gear turning as you rotate. Drive gear looks like a flat bladed screwdriver tip when looking down the hole where speedo cable goes. Most of the #15 CB Speedo Drives Didn't have a locating tab. You just install the assembly into bottom of forks and "almost" tighten-up the clamshells. NOTE clamshells are designed to go on ONE way or you'll distort the two studs coming out of the bottom of forks!! Sometimes they will have an Arrow on the bottom, sometimes not. Arrow always faces forward. If no arrow you want the side that is thicker facing forward. ALWAYS tighten forward facing nut first! If correctly orientated you'll note an open gap between bottom of fork Rear fork stud and clamshell. This is normal and you're not going to be closing-up the gap upon assembly, this is to allow clamping. Position/turn speedo drive cable opening to approx the 5oclock position. Might have to "play" with position, you want speedo cable not stressed in fully extended or fully compressed positions. Finish tightening FRONT nuts First, then rear. DON'T Ham-Fist tightening or you'll distort/snap off the studs. Long winded but it's easy, ha.    

TexasKZ wrote:

If it was mine, I would remove the front wheel and carefully lay out all those pieces in the exact order they are installed and carefully compare to the picture. Also be certain number 7 is between the bearings. If it is missing, the bearings can sink too far into the wheel and that might cause the problem. Also, carefully inspect the drive mechanism and the fork on that side to insure that whatever is supposed to prevent the problem is present and undamaged. Some pictures will help forum members in diagnosing the problem.


 

Solved. Shady mechanic. When the wheels were changed, they didnt tighten axle to spec, expecting my cousin, who is young and even younger looking,  to come back. When I took the bike back to them, they made up some long story about old bikes having peculiar axles and charged me $100 to "fix/tighten it to spec" . when they were the ones who didnt put it back together properly.

I was very angry but I wasnt about to go to jail for punching someone who was trying to cheat me (my cousin too)  So I paid it.
Its OK though. I will spread the word about them here in there relatively small motorcycling community where I live.

Thanks everyone for your help.

Negative feedback to everyone gets round faster than positive and does a lot of damage to businesses who do crap work 👍👍