TOPIC:

Awesome, thanks for the input guys.

How many links would a standard, unstretched, bike have. Is 110 the norm? Or will I need to remove some links to fit it to size?

I'm pretty sureI need a 630 size chain, any remommendations on where I could find one of those at a decent price?

Thanks again.

I think a lot of 1000 owners here have converted to a 530 chain, its lighter, easier on the drivetrain, quieter, and cheaper, and new 530 chains are just as strong if not stronger than old 630 chains.

Squints; Your owners/service manual will tell you the link count and size of the chain you need, with standard sprockets. The whole deal with any chain/sprocket combination is how they fit each other. Usually the countershaft (front) is make from case hardened steel and the rear from soft steel or aluminum. When you put a new chain on worn sprockets the chain stretches to "fit" the worn parts. The best way to check for proper fit is to grab the chain at the 3:00 O'clock position, when facing the rear sprocket. See how far the chain will lift off of the sprocket. Make sure you have plenty of slack to do this measurement and the bike is on the centerstand. When you get new parts the next time, lay the new chain over the new rear sprocket to simulate the way they are when on the bike and you'll find you can't "lift" the chain very far. Now lay your worn chain over the new sprocket and see the difference. The other thing is that O ringed chains only trap the lube inside the pin/bushing areas. The rollers that turn around the bushings (the part that contacts the sprockets)still needs constant lubrication. The lubing should be done while the chain is hot, so that the solvents flash off, leaving the grease. It's also a good idea to wipe the excess off of the outside of the chain. It keeps it from flinging onto the bike and your left calf. Ha As you know, keeping the tension adjustment up to specs also helps in smooth shifting. Wow, this post got really long, Sorry! Ride safe, Steve

The other thing is that O ringed chains only trap the lube inside the pin/bushing areas. The rollers that turn around the bushings (the part that contacts the sprockets)still needs constant lubrication.

There are members here that never lube their X-ring chains and get somewhere near 17k-20k miles from them

Interesting reading about chains

Wow, you guys are awesome. so much knowledge.

Ok, so what should I do? I have two new sprockets and a new chain that appears to be stretching. I have the chain tensioners maxed out, no more room to tighten the chain. And I really want to ride. Would it be wise to buy a new chain? I am unsure the quality of the current one, though the kid at the shop said I should get a decent amount of riding out of it. Or could there be a greater problem within the chain sprocket set-up? Is there any way to salvage the chain I have, i.e. remove a link? Would that even be a good idea. I'm desperate..I need to ride!!!

Any suggestions?

If the chain pitch is increasing due to wear you want to replace it before it causes accelerated wear on the sprockets,if it hasn't already. The chain will ride up towards the tips of the sprockets rather than seating in them properly. You need to inspect the sprockets carefully for wear as you may best to replace all of it with an X ring 530 conversion.

What is involved in this conversion? Is it simply replaceing he sprockets? I have a 15 tooth up front and a 41 in back, could I still use these if I switch to a 530 chain? If not, what size sprockets are needed?

This sounds like a worthwhile investment if my chain needs replacing anyway. I will save in the long run.

check out the stuff on Z1, it has all the info on doing the conversion, and what sprockets to use
click here for a direct link;)

Post edited by: 77KZ650, at: 2006/06/28 19:26