TOPIC:

There was a document discussing fusebox conversion on a KZ1000 and I thought I'd submit a photo of the same conversion (with the same parts) on a KZ650.

The automotive fuses are so much easier to find and I think the contacts on these fuses are far more reliable.

I think problems can arise with the old style fuses if you subsititue the wrong length fuse and you get some bad contacts in the box. The arcing from the bad contacts can create electrical gremlins that you may not immediately trace back to your fusebox. This is a quick and reliable upgrade for all our old KZ's.

Remove old fusebox:

- photograph or write down the wiring in the fusebox for reference later.

- Remove the old box from the bike by pulling the fuses, wires and the rubber holder.

- cut off or remove the old fuse holder connectors, leaving pigtails.


Install new fusebox:

- $4.99US 4-position fuse holder from Advance Auto Parts

- crimp on new connectors (or just use pliers carefully). Soldering is optional. You may have to separate the 4 pins that come on one rail - our bikes don't have the fusebox common ground that many cars have.

- modify one of the mounting holes to take the old rubber holder and hook the box where the old one use to be - there is just enough clearance to the side cover.

- Test all circuits

Time: < 1 h
Cost: $5US (scavenge the fuses)
Additional "Fast-ness" of bike: ZERO


Other tips:

- these are self-cleaning contacts but still a good idea to seal the box somehow.

- Don't use a 30Amp fuse on the 20A circuit like I have, I have to "borrow" a 20A from work tomorrow.

looks good! I think Ill probably do the same to mine
Scott

Thanks Inline - Thanks for the info. I like the swap. Gonna put it on my 2do list for the hibernation months.

Cheers-COlin Firth-Ontario Canada
1977Kz650Custom -Miss January 2007 Kzr Calendar. 810 big-bore with lottsa go-fast goodies tucked away inside. A silver sleeper:)

Yes, this is something I should do as well. Thanks for the write up.

Looks good. I did something similar plus I put a combination of red LED in series with a resistor across each fuse. Now, if a fuse blows (open-circuit), the LED turns on.

The resistor value is chosen based on the maximum current capacity of the LED you use.

Looking quickly at who has replied this morning, I want to remind our friends down south that contrary to popular belief, the Laws of Electricity do NOT change when you cross the border. I did in fact buy the parts in YOUR nation's Capitol of all places.

inline79 wrote:

Looking quickly at who has replied this morning, I want to remind our friends down south that contrary to popular belief, the Laws of Electricity do NOT change when you cross the border. I did in fact buy the parts in YOUR nation's Capitol of all places.

thank god!the whole north/south pole thing had me concerned! once i get that far i will try something similarB)