I recently purchased an 81 750 LTD at a yard sale for $150. The bike had set without running for years. It now runs great and is silly, stupid fast! The biggest problem I have had with it is the infamous Kaw starter clutch slippage. My mechanic, who got just whirring noises and rare or no engine turnover, insisted that the only fix was to split the case and install a new starter clutch. Since this is my first post, I hope I can make a positive difference for you old timers.
I did not want to spend $600 on labor on a cheap bike, so I did several Google searches on the issue and tried what the consensus in the riding community recommended.
(Disclosure: I have no connection whatsoever with any oil company).
To cut to the chase, I believe that most, if not all Kawasaki starter clutch issues are caused by using an automotive grade oil with friction inhibiters (Which was not available widely when these bikes were new). On a Kaw, the starter clutch, like the main clutch, is submerged in oil. Modern Automotive SJ rated oils all contain friction inhibitors, the bane of both motorcycle clutches and starter clutches. I have kept careful notes on the oils that I have used, since I have changed the oil numerous (5) times since my purchase, believing that the wrong oil is almost always the real culprit. After much trial and error, I have concluded that Shell Rotella T 5-40 synthetic Diesel truck oil works miracles for the Kaw starter clutch and makes it shift better to boot! For three reasons: Rotella is a very high detergent oil that cannot be used in modern automobiles because it's high phosphorus (detergent) content messes with catalytic converters (but cleans out all the gunk and rust from years of sitting) and 2) it contains no friction inhibiters 3) it is sythetic so allows easier cold engine turnover.
My 750 now starts and engages like a new one, and this morning it was cold enough to have frost on my car windows. It started and purred after three stabs on the button. It only "whirs" without engaging very rarely now, usually only when I press the button and hold it down. I tried the following motor oils before settling on Rotella syn, the worst being 20-50 dino Supertech (from Wallyworld) and the second best being Chevron Delo 15-40 which works almost as well as the Rotella synthetic. Mobil 1 5-30 syn rarely allowed full engagement, making it nearly as bad as Supertech. Dino 10-40 from NAPA was right in the middle, while Supertech 5-30 dyno was also right in the middle as far as starter clutch usability.
So until you have drained your crankcase of all that low friction automotive oil DONT SPLIT YOUR CASE!, save yourself a major headache by changing your oil to either a motorcycle-exclusive oil (damned expensive) or one of the Heavy Duty high-detergent Diesel oils like Delo, Delvach or Rotella.
There you have it! Enjoy!
Post edited by: Larry P2, at: 2006/10/03 17:16