Light circuit

Hi All, I have a 1977 kawasaki Z1000A1, i have a new wiring harness from Zpower, , the problem i have is i cannot get power to the rear light or the bulbs that light the speed / rev counter, when the light switch is in the on position ,and ignition is on, i can press the front and rear brake lever / pedal and the rear light illuminates and the (Stop Light) on the idiot lights work, when you put the ignition in the 3rd position the parking rear  light is lit, I seem to be missing a switch live from the ignition, This is driving me mad, it is a wire connected wrong i know just can,t see the obvious, the indicators, starter motor, horn , clutch cut out, neutral light, high beam light, oil pressure lights all work.
Any info would be helpful

Pictures look like you are in the UK. Does your bike have the euro spec right handle bar switch with the PO and On positions (PO is sidelights and instruments ON is low beam) Feed in should be brown and the outputs are brown/white and blue/white

I will take more photos tomorrow Wookie58, the red wire from the rear light goes to the ignition switch so presume there will be a wire out from the ignition to complete the circuit, with the light switch in the on position , i can get 12v on my meter in the headlamp bowl when i toggle between low and high beam, so the switch on the right handlebar seems good, i just can,t get the rear light and the bulbs on the speedo / rev counter, to work, on the Zpower harness some of the browns have dots on them so may have these wrong.

rednotwrite wrote:

I will take more photos tomorrow Wookie58, the red wire from the rear light goes to the ignition switch so presume there will be a wire out from the ignition to complete the circuit, with the light switch in the on position , i can get 12v on my meter in the headlamp bowl when i toggle between low and high beam, so the switch on the right handlebar seems good, i just can,t get the rear light and the bulbs on the speedo / rev counter, to work, on the Zpower harness some of the browns have dots on them so may have these wrong.

The red wire to the tail light is fed by the white wire in the ignition switch in the park position. In normal "ignition on" mode it is fed by the blue wire. The brown/white from the right switch should feed one of the 10a fuses which then powers the red/blue which is the feed for the tail light and instrument lights.(red/blue changes to just blue !!)

Some photos of the switch and wire harness, blue/white and blue go to each side of the 10A head fuse, brown/white and brown go to each side of the 10A tail fuse, still confused, if you look at photo wireB two brown wires seem to have 2 silver marks on them, if i put a live feed to the red wire on the tail light box connector at the back of the bike i get the rear light and speedo / tach bulbs light up.
need to order some 10 and 20A fuses now Grrrr
 

rednotwrite wrote:

Some photos of the switch and wire harness, blue/white and blue go to each side of the 10A head fuse, Correct 
brown/white and brown go to each side of the 10A tail fuse,Not correct according to the diagram still confused,
if you look at photo wireB two brown wires seem to have 2 silver marks on them,I suspect this loom is made to fit multiple models
if i put a live feed to the red wire on the tail light box connector at the back of the bike i get the rear light and speedo / tach bulbs light up. If this is with the ignition switch in the on position then this is correct
need to order some 10 and 20A fuses now Grrrr

 

If it helps? I'm currently assembling/re-sheathing an identical RH switchblock like yours. This one is for a 1978 Z1R but still handlebar thru wiring. Note there are 3 couplers for fusing the wires together so you get the total 5 4mm bullet terminal output. Blue and Brown with white tracer are tied together as noted in photo. It was dark out so photos aren't really crisp but you get the idea. Sometimes those couplers detach/rot out, aggravated if you've been tugging on the wires. Make sure the wires haven't become un-soldered from any of the components. I see it all the time with factory soldering. Guess they didn't have enough soldering flux when originally doing these ha? Anyhoot, crap ya won't see outwardly.     

RH done and should resemble exactly like yours. These Z1R LH switches are by far the worst, lots of wiring/solenoid for the automatic signal cancel feature! Your RH one is super easy!! Noticed in photo, you're using an aftermarket front brake master cylinder. Was this done for convenience because no original plastic reservoir Tokico's were available?     

Many thanks to asphalt900 and especially Wookie58, got everything working although i seem to have some surplus/extra wires, see photos, i have a Brown i think coming from the left switch, a permanent 12v live on the harness, and another Brown and Brown double connector in the headlamp bowl ??, the pass button lights the headlamp high beam when the low beam is on but dont work when lights are off and ignition is on, i presume it should work with lights off , again many thanks i can stop pulling my hair out now.

All about "teamwork" from knowledgeable like-minded folks here, Nobody KNOWS it all so therefore nobody boasts here just thru photos and schematics! Therefore between patrons that have seen it.."WE WORK" together for a competent resolution. NO AI, just experience. Donate if YOU found it relevant?? I'm sure the value will far outweigh a simple donation. You'll be back with more queries for completion...maybe??  

rednotwrite wrote:

Many thanks to asphalt900 and especially Wookie58, got everything working although i seem to have some surplus/extra wires, see photos, i have a Brown i think coming from the left switch, a permanent 12v live on the harness, and another Brown and Brown double connector in the headlamp bowl ??, the pass button lights the headlamp high beam when the low beam is on but dont work when lights are off and ignition is on, i presume it should work with lights off , again many thanks i can stop pulling my hair out now.

I have had a look at the diagrams I have regarding the "pass" button. The diagrams don't show a "pass" button until the A4 which does indeed have an ignition live to power it. With the lighting on these bikes it varies from year to year and also market (at one time USA models didn't have a light switch on the right handlebar as it was law for the headlight to be on all the time so it was directly ignition fed) the fact that your works as it does suggests either that was how it was intended or somebody has "reconfigured the wiring in the "switch housing ?????

Also regarding the "pass" feature on the LH switchblock. I didn't see any photos representing what you're using for the LH side? Is it aftermarket or genuine? They have been using the combo Horn/Pass rocker switch much earlier Wookie on many other Euro models too. Kawasaki contracted with Asahi Denso (AD) for years to supply all their switchblocks. As you mentioned you indeed have a "pass" feature then that rocker switch has two independent non electrically connected switches within, part number 46027-015. The US version was 46026-006. Horn switch connects via brass strip that grounds to case and other lead goes directly to horn. Pass switch, well follow schematic. They had two styles of that rocker, cosmetic only though. Here are a couple photos of the Two genuine styles      and one of what an aftermarket one looks like.