kz1000 csr popping at idle and bad igniter?

I've been working on the big one a lot last weekend and fully disassembled the carbs and put them into the ultrasonic cleaner. Set float levels, bench sync, and fuel mixture. The bike still pops at idle and during most deceleration which is frustrating! I checked my igniter in attempt of fixing my tachometer issue but most of the readings are correct except two reading: The positive and ground pins and the pins coming from the pickup coil side of the igniter. I'll write more when I can, my class starts right now!! 

So i followed this diagram and its been a bit but I know both sides on the pickup coil side of the igniter were at about 1 megaohm. For the connection at the black/yellow and red i believe were also out of spec but i dont remember what at. Do I need a new igniter? I dont think that the igniter would cause my popping or tach problems, would it? 
I also thought my problem would be the spark plug caps because I checked the resistance on them and the 1 and 4 caps were reading in the megaohm range so I replaced them but it didnt help. The ignition coils and pickup coils read fine. I didnt check what amount of voltage im getting to the coils.

bound wrote:

So i followed this diagram and its been a bit but I know both sides on the pickup coil side of the igniter were at about 1 megaohm. For the connection at the black/yellow and red i believe were also out of spec but i dont remember what at. Do I need a new igniter? I dont think that the igniter would cause my popping or tach problems, would it? 

I would question your readings and test process - the spec for the pick ups is 20,000ohms  - 40,000 ohms (20 - 40 Kohms) if your reading of 1 million ohms (1 Mohm) was correct it wouldn't run at all !!!! I suspect what you are measuring is outside the scope of your meter

That's totally possible! I put the multimeter to the kiloohm range and it was consistently reading at like 970 kohms no matter which way I measured it. I even tried multiple methods to make sure I was getting a good connection on my probe but it kept reading at 970 kohms!

A lot of digital meters only have either a 2k or 20k scale, anything past that is random meaningless numbers (I have an analogue meter for the higher measurements)

This is the multimeter im using:  Also for clarity, my test process where I got the 970 kohm reading was putting the + on the black and - on the blue. I'd get 970 kohms so I'd swap the poles and get the same reading. I would then swap over to the red and yellow wires in the same way and still get that 970 kohm reading, if i remember correctly. After that point i was trying to grab any reading that would get me close to the spec but none did. You may be right about the multimeter and I still recognize that the popping still may be from the carbs.

Nice bit of kit, looking at the spec it should be capable of what you are asking but the readings can't be right or I don't believe the bike would run at all
Edit: I assume the plug for the pick ups was disconnected from the igniter when you did this test ?

Yes, the igniter was completely disconnected when I did these tests. The pickup coils read fine along with the ignition coils and most of the wires on the other plug for the igniter except for the red and black/yellow but I cant quite remember what it was reading.

I do have a kz550 igniter laying around somewhere so I may be able to mess with that one this weekend and maybe try installing it and seeing what happens if it wouldnt cause any problems...

So I tested the igniter again and compared the values to the kz550 igniter. Guess what? They are almost exactly the same! This is what I got for values which is really off from spec. I don't know what to think.  

I suspect your readings are off, if every circuit in the igniter was that far off it wouldn’t run

Wookie58 wrote:

I suspect your readings are off, if every circuit in the igniter was that far off it wouldn’t run

 

I agree. I'll probably look elsewhere. I'll keep you updated. 

Well i pretty much got rid of the popping by backing out the pilot screws to 2 turns out from 1 1/4 but before AND after these changes the spark plug 1 is wet... i peeked through the hole and the piston is wet too but when I check for spark im getting great spark.