KZ750 - Starter button fell out.

Hello y'all,

Went to start my bike today and the starter button decided to just eject from the housing. I tried pushing it in but it doesn't crank at all now. Not sure if that's to be expected or a separate issue. 
Searching around for a replacement assembly and I'm seeing a lot of the 3rd attached image on ebay with the ON PO OFF light toggle instead of the On/Off blockoff kind my bike currently has. 
Wondering if anyone knows if this will work with my bike or would I need to modify it somehow? 

Thanks!

 

It will work, I can help you with sorting the small wiring changes 

I believe you can buy new buttons.
The horn button is the same part.
Well it is on a 1978 KZ650.

Z1Enterprises used to have them.

WOW, that is a crusty mess you have going on there! I can see you've replaced the grip with "something" else and negated the use of carb pulley return throttle cable, ha. I suppose moot considering but you can just fix what you have, did ya know? YES that aftermarket RH switchblock will allow you full control of your lights though, wired properly. All these era harnesses allowed a selection of constant ON or personal selection of when you wanted the lights on or not. It was the switch construction/internals that dictated. Somebody had been in there "fabricating", NEVER have i seen a starter knob pop out!!    

My starter button fell out last year. The lip wears down. Still available like rstnick says.

Looks like you can see the spring is still in place inside. I ordered from local kawasaki dealer and until it came i used a hinge pin with a bit of rubber tube for a handle and just pushed it in when I wanted to start. 

asphalt900 wrote:

WOW, that is a crusty mess you have going on there! I can see you've replaced the grip with "something" else and negated the use of carb pulley return throttle cable, ha. I suppose moot considering but you can just fix what you have, did ya know? YES that aftermarket RH switchblock will allow you full control of your lights though, wired properly. All these era harnesses allowed a selection of constant ON or personal selection of when you wanted the lights on or not. It was the switch construction/internals that dictated. Somebody had been in there "fabricating", NEVER have i seen a starter knob pop out!! 

  
 

Yeah I think brake fluid got all over the everything on that side. Last year I had one of the screws snap off in the reservoir when I was going to bleed the brakes and it was a whole mess lol.
Is a carb pulley cable something I should look into? The handle is more or less original, the foam grip disintegrated so I replaced it with one that just sleeved over the throttle bar that was there.

JR post=915433 userid=2660My starter button fell out last year. The lip wears down. Still available like strick says.

Looks like you can see the spring is still in place inside. I ordered from local kawasaki dealer and until it came i used a hinge pin with a bit of rubber tube for a handle and just pushed it in when I wanted to start. 

Yeah it looks like all the plastic around the edge that was holding it in cracked/separated finally. I've seen a few posts with similar happening looking around on google.
I tried just pressing the detached button back in just to see if it would still start but it didn't want to crank. I'll have to see I can find something else that fits. 

Wookie58 wrote:

It will work, I can help you with sorting the small wiring changes 
 

Ahoy, I have the new one mostly installed now, I'm at the part where wiring will need to be changed if you can assist.
New pod has a 4 pin plug and two extra blue wires with a blade and a bullet connector vs the bike's 6pin plug. 
 

Ok, so the Brown - Yellow - Red - Black look like they should match up to the loom, see the below for the two "Blues". Any issues I will need to see inside the switch (fold it open so I can clearly see which wires go where)

Connect a voltmeter (black lead to battery ground) to one of the blue wires and operate the light switch to the “PO” position, if the meter reads connect to the Brown/White, if no reading move to the other Blue wire if reading then this is the wire to connect to Brown/White

Now move the switch to the “ON” position, you should have a reading on both Blue wires now, if so connect the remaining Blue wire to Blue/White

Wookie58 wrote:

Ok, so the Brown - Yellow - Red - Black look like they should match up to the loom, see the below for the two "Blues". Any issues I will need to see inside the switch (fold it open so I can clearly see which wires go where)

Connect a voltmeter (black lead to battery ground) to one of the blue wires and operate the light switch to the “PO” position, if the meter reads connect to the Brown/White, if no reading move to the other Blue wire if reading then this is the wire to connect to Brown/White

Now move the switch to the “ON” position, you should have a reading on both Blue wires now, if so connect the remaining Blue wire to Blue/White


 

Thank you! I think I got it figure out. I was able to depin the connectors and match the colors up. Just need to figure out how I'm going to attach the blue wires yet. Think I'll see if I can find the small connectors and just make a little jumper wire that goes into the plug and to a bullet so I don't have to modify the harness.

Currently it won't start and the headlight isn't coming on but I believe it's because the battery is way down (It's been sitting for a couple months unfortunately), it was only reading 6v when checking the blue wires so I've got it on a charger and will check again later. 
But I've included the inside of the cluster if you wanna check if the colors are correct.
I notice there's no red inside the pod, but two yellow/red. There's also a second brown under the two blues that didn't come thru in the picture.  

Edit: Okay I just checked on it and it cranks and the headlight comes on but not quite enough oomph to start yet.
Something does appear to be not right though as it cranks regardless of the killswitch position.
Edit 2: Now that I've gotten it running, off on the light selector turns the bike off now lol

These switches are fun 

 Hi, that is a z1 reproduction, wanted switched lighting 81 650, pics of final plug layout, works well

jwfels wrote:

 Hi, that is a z1 reproduction, wanted switched lighting 81 650, pics of final plug layout, works well 

Thanks for this, I'm sure if he follows my instructions he will be fine and as he is in Europe will have the "PO" and "ON" functions on the light switch as well as the independent coil feed from the ignition switch that his 82 Ltd had as stock