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Full control/throttle/lever replacement? (maybe handlebar?) 04 Nov 2023 17:28 #891289

  • viiiwonder
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So, at the risk of this 250cc money pit getting even deeper…

What is the reality of replacing basically everything on the handlebars, as well as the linkage to the respective controlled object (both grips, the throttle, both levers, the electrical/switch clusters)? The 82 KZ250 LTD I’ve been rehabbing has some pretty ratty controls/bent levers, gritty throttle, you name it. I know I need to replace several of the cables, but I know that as soon as I do, the next thread will come unraveled (and it’s just easier to attack one ‘chunk’ at a time if you have a full plan for the entire scope of what you’re doing).

I also feel like the handlebars on this bike are a little high/positioned towards the rider, so I am completely open to replacing the bars as well.

Anyone have any words of wisdom?

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Full control/throttle/lever replacement? (maybe handlebar?) 04 Nov 2023 17:37 #891290

  • TexasKZ
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As long as it is a 7/8 inch bar, you have about a bazillion options.

Here are some….  www.z1enterprises.com/handlebars-mirrors...duct_list_order=name
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough

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Last edit: by TexasKZ.

Full control/throttle/lever replacement? (maybe handlebar?) 04 Nov 2023 19:27 #891298

  • sf4t7
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A set of "superbike" bars will lower your hands nicely.  They have a  2 1/2 inch rise.
Scotty

1974 Z1A
1015
welded Z1 crank
Andrews 1X Cams
Delkevic 4 into 1

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Full control/throttle/lever replacement? (maybe handlebar?) 05 Nov 2023 05:34 #891309

  • TexasKZ
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If you can find a comfortable position when sitting on the bike, you can figure approximately the measurements that might work. It can be a bit of a guessing game, as there is no way to tell for sure until you put some miles on them. Handlebars are a bit like shoes, what is perfect for me might be miserable for you. 

Also keep in mind that you need to think in three dimensions when considering bars. Height, or rise, from the steering stem, width between the grips, pullback - distance the grips are behind the steering stem, the angle of pullback, and droop - how far from horizontal the grips are. 

All of this is also affected by the relationships between hand position, seat position - height and distance from the hands and feet, and foot peg position - distance from the hands and seat.

Then there is riding style. For casual cruising, a position like you are sitting in a chair, very slightly leaning forward is likely best. For touring, leaning forward a bit more with the foot controls a little farther back could be the ticket. For aggressive sport riding, a crouch forward with feet tucked up high and back will shift weight to the front wheel for better control and traction and will give extra clearance for extreme cornering.

Any choice is going to be a bit of a compromise, but finding the setup that works best for you will make riding more pleasurable. I once had a set of Heli adjustable bars on a Concours. Those things were fabulous and without the stigma of low cost. 
 
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough

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Last edit: by TexasKZ.
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