TOPIC:

Not sure this will be of any help or not, but info I have found would indicate all of the 1980 models, the E1 is an 80 model, came stock with a 7 lead switch ( 6 pin connector and a single lead.  Below I have included a list of part #s for switches.  I have also attached a wiring diag for the E1.  I do not and have not done a search of a 7 lead search so do not have a location to point you to.  But with the wiring diag you should be able to make just about any switch work.  

27005-083
4 leads on switch - 4 pin connector
 KZ650-B1 (1977)  
  
27005-5001
6 leads on switch - 6 pin connector
 KZ650-B2 (1978)  
 KZ650-B2A (1978)  
 KZ650-C1 (Custom) (1977)  
 KZ650-C2 (Custom) (1978)  
 KZ650-D1 (SR) (1978)  
 KZ650-D1A (SR) (1978)  
 
27005-5007
7 leads on switch - 6 pin connector and single wire
 KZ650-B3 (1979)
 Kz650-B4 (1980)
 KZ650-C3 (Custom) (1979)
 KZ650-C4 (1980)
 KZ650-D2 (SR) (1979)
 KZ650-D3 (SR) (1980)
 KZ650-D4 (SR) (1981)    
 KZ650-E1 (LTD) (1980)  
 KZ650-F1 (1980)
 
 several part numbers depending upon where sold 27004 with one of the following 5123, 5124,5151,5152,or 27004 with one of thhe following 5024,5026
7 leads on switch - 6 pin connector and single wire
 KZ650-F2 (1981)
 KZ650-F3 (1982)
 KZ650-F4 (1983)

27005-5024 (supersceeded 27005-5015   27005-5017    27005-5027    27005-5035)   
7 leads on switch - 6 pin connector and single wire 
 KZ650-H1 (CSR) (1981)  
 KZ650-H2 (CSR) (1982)  
 KZ650-H3 (CSR) (1983)  

 

Deon wrote:

Just an update, hopefully someone has some ideas. The ignition is not very good so decided to get new one to eliminate the switch. When i unplugged the old ignition i found, on the harness side, someone has joined (very badly) the yellow going to stop / run switch and the white going to 20amp fuse together. I separated these 2 wires which has stopped the battery drain. But now i dont have any working lights on the dash at all. It also looks as if someone has had the ignition back off at some stage. I had to return the new ignition to z power as it was not the right switch and Phil does not know if he will be able to get one. So at the moment its not going very well. The bike is the US important kz650E1 and seems a problem to get parts for. Does anyone know where or what else to try.



 

Looks like I guessed right with the by-pass   (still on the bright side you would still of been able to get home if you lost the keys ) what exactly isn't working on the instruments ? If you manage to locate a switch for a different model (as long as you have a diagram) I should be able to help you make it work as it should

CMS shows the factory switch as out of stock, but does show an aftermarket switch for a surprisingly low price.

www.cmsnl.com/products/switch-assy-ignition-non_270055007p/

Partzilla, a U.S. supplier, lists the factory switch for quite a bit less, but shipping may make up the difference, and it may be out of stock there, too, though it might be worth an email to find out.

Thanks for all the information and assistance. I will speak to Z Power today and take it from there. At least i have a few options now. 

After lots of checking and testing, i found that there were two 12v live white wires to the ignition switch, which join and go to 20 amp fuse. On the harness side, the one 12v white and yellow to run/stop had been joined by removing some insulation and wrapping a piece of copper wire around both by previous owner. I have now separated these two as that was causing the battery drain. When plunging the ignition connector block to the harness the the other 12v live white was connecting to the red wire which goes to the tail light. I removed it from the connector block and put it in the correct place so that white plugs into white as per the wiring diagram. I also took ignition apart and cleaned all contacts. It was pretty bad. Bingo, all dash lights working as the should. The engine fired up and it is running ok. I did need a bit of easy start to get it to start so might still have a carburetor issue. ​​​​​​​