TOPIC:

Maybe someone tracked the bike?  I must say, though, that the safety wire job wouldn't pass muster in the aerospace industry where I work (not that motorcycles fly or anything.)  

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Maybe someone tracked the bike?  I must say, though, that the safety wire job wouldn't pass muster in the aerospace industry where I work (not that motorcycles fly or anything.)  

                 It's possible  I suppose but I doubt I'll ever find out. Interestingly the engine number doesn't match the frame number. It doesn't bother me as its recorded on the Registration docs. Not that unusual on a bike this age.My local mechanic has a Z550 with a Z750 lump in it. I agree about the wire job in your industry. I'm still waiting for my flying bike if you know anyone...

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              Yes I did notice the wired sump plug after I had bought the bike but I'm not too concerned as it's not the sort of bike you would use for racing. I's the only bolt that has been wired. I just put it down to an enthusiastic DIY er who got bored on a rainy day but I don't suppose I'll ever know why.. If I can find a suitable recepticle for the oil I plan on taking the pressure switch out and having a root around inside it. It'll save me £30 if i can get it going again. Anyone have an exploded diagram?

I wasn't concerned as such - just pointing out something I thought was interesting.

"Not the sort of bike you'd use for racing" - I respectfully submit there is no such thing.

Normally I use the diagrams on Partzilla or CMSNL, but neither seems to have the I4 400.

 

If the oil pressure switch thread is M10 x 1, you can use a VW Golf/Rabbit 1 oil pressure switch for 5 €.

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Interestingly the engine number doesn't match the frame number. 

They never do on KZ bikes.

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Interestingly the engine number doesn't match the frame number. 

They never do on KZ bikes.

 I didn't know that - how bizarre!

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If the oil pressure switch thread is M10 x 1, you can use a VW Golf/Rabbit 1 oil pressure switch for 5 €.

   That's handy to know - so it might be worth taking it out and going to a VW dealers or car spares shop. It wouldn't be the first time I've walked itno car spares shop with bike bits and asked if they had anything similar.

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              Yes I did notice the wired sump plug after I had bought the bike but I'm not too concerned as it's not the sort of bike you would use for racing. I's the only bolt that has been wired. I just put it down to an enthusiastic DIY er who got bored on a rainy day but I don't suppose I'll ever know why.. If I can find a suitable recepticle for the oil I plan on taking the pressure switch out and having a root around inside it. It'll save me £30 if i can get it going again. Anyone have an exploded diagram?

I wasn't concerned as such - just pointing out something I thought was interesting.

"Not the sort of bike you'd use for racing" - I respectfully submit there is no such thing.

Normally I use the diagrams on Partzilla or CMSNL, but neither seems to have the I4 400.


 

               You haven't ridden one of these 400's have you.....? 

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"Not the sort of bike you'd use for racing" - I respectfully submit there is no such thing.

 

               You haven't ridden one of these 400's have you.....? 

The US (twin) version, yes - please see my sig block.

Also, as a further counterpoint, this:


 

With the wire off you should have 12V or there about's on that wire, it works like the neutral light the switch provide the ground return to put the bulb on. The bulb is fed from the brown (main power after ign switch and gets a return from the blue with red tracer wire through the oil pressure switch to ground. your wire is a repair poss due to the elimination of the side stand safety swtich on non UK models.

As previous poster suggested with engine stopped the switch is closed allowing current flow and when the engine fires and you get over a few PSI oil pressure it OPENS stopping the current flow and the light goes out. check the brown wire from headlight to tacho oil light and the Blue with red tracer strip comming back to headlight shell then it is in the loom from there till it goes into the chain cover with the neutral wire (green) and the alternator wires (yellow)

check with a multimeter the voltage on your repair wire (disconnected) ign on, in the photo and check with resistance setting wire removed, the oil switch closed (low or no resistance engine stopped) and open(high res) with engine running.

good idea to remove sump and clean out anyway if you do not know the motor.


Nice JT Harlty pic on the Profile pic.
 

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"Not the sort of bike you'd use for racing" - I respectfully submit there is no such thing.

 

               You haven't ridden one of these 400's have you.....? 

The US (twin) version, yes - please see my sig block.

Also, as a further counterpoint, this:

 

              I think they were even slower!

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With the wire off you should have 12V or there about's on that wire, it works like the neutral light the switch provide the ground return to put the bulb on. The bulb is fed from the brown (main power after ign switch and gets a return from the blue with red tracer wire through the oil pressure switch to ground. your wire is a repair poss due to the elimination of the side stand safety swtich on non UK models.

As previous poster suggested with engine stopped the switch is closed allowing current flow and when the engine fires and you get over a few PSI oil pressure it OPENS stopping the current flow and the light goes out. check the brown wire from headlight to tacho oil light and the Blue with red tracer strip comming back to headlight shell then it is in the loom from there till it goes into the chain cover with the neutral wire (green) and the alternator wires (yellow)

check with a multimeter the voltage on your repair wire (disconnected) ign on, in the photo and check with resistance setting wire removed, the oil switch closed (low or no resistance engine stopped) and open(high res) with engine running.

good idea to remove sump and clean out anyway if you do not know the motor.


Nice JT Harlty pic on the Profile pic.

 

                    Great advice, thanks Linuxrob. I've tested the light and wiring by earthing it and it come on fine . I had planned on removing the switch and trying to get it working but it's leaking oil from inside, where the screw that holds the wire goes into leading me to think the oil is insulating the contacts, so I'm going to change it when I get chance.
    The JR Hartley pic is a meme I often use when I read something on t'internet that is clearly bollox.  Very few people get it so full marks to you