TOPIC:

So, having scoured the internet and these forums, and doing tests on my bike, it looks like I've burned out my rectifier by going crazy with LED conversion. Everything but the brake/tail light is converted. I thought using as high power of an LED light as I'm using would prevent me from having an issue, but it was not to be. The headlight I'm using is a Hikari Eye of Megatron 12000 lumen H4 bulb. It's so high power it needs a fan to stay cool.

So... on the forums I bumped into a reply by loudhvx telling someone else with this problem to get a series-pass regulator, and very specifically not a mosfet one. Another reply by him in a different thread saying to get a Shindengen series-pass regulator, and mentioning that Nessism might have more information.

So... I'm asking everybody, and also would like Nessism's input if possible?

See, I've searched for a Shindengen series-pass regulator on the internet and cannot find one. I can only find mosfet regulators by that company. I've also searched for series-pass regulators from any other company and can only find ones saying they're mosfet or not saying anything at all about what type they are.

In the mean time I have a NOS regulator coming in and I'm hoping I don't burn it out.I am not wanting to lose my Eye of Megatron bulb, so I have two questions...

1: Does anybody have any specific suggestions about where to get a series pass regulator, possibly links to a store selling it?
2: Does anybody have any suggestions about what I can do to increase the load on the electrical system to sink heat/energy away from the stock rectifier so I don't burn the new one out too?

This is a screen shot of what Nessism recommends. I saved it because one day I’m going to upgrade.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

This is a combination rectifier and regulator. Buy the Triumph adapter harness and have at it. A vastly superior to shunt type r/r.

Truth is though, since your headlamp creates a high load on the generator there won't be a whole lot of extra power that needs to be dumped, thus the series R/R is less important. I'd still get one though. It has no downside and is a high quality Shindengen which is basically best available.

....You may need a new regulator, and the SH775 is a great one,..... I have one in my antique,..... but I doubt the LEDs are causing the problem. They draw much less current than stock, even with fans, as they DONT burn most energy in heat, as the stock incandescent do, as long as you don't use the so called, "load resistor", which draw same current or more than the stock converting it to heat to 'fool' a stock blinker relay. They defeat the efficiency of the LEDs.

.....in any case, any overload or excess load, is for the fuses to blow before any other part is damaged. Electricity 101












. Electricity 101

Hugo, this is more about the alternator is producing more energy than is being used. And that happens, the regulator gets hot because it has to shunt the energy some how, and that happens as heat.

So it's not about something drawing too much power, it's about it drawing too little. Kind of a common problem.

Anyway, thanks guys. I'll get that when i can. Penalty next month. I'm by the mean time I'm just going to cancel the order for the nos one since it'll probably take longer than I have the luxury to wait since I have obligations that require the bike.

Main thing is not the R/R getting too hot, it's the stator that gets too hot since a shunt R/R returns the unused power back to it.

So what are the chances of my stator needing to be replaced, then?

(edit)

Meh looks like new stators are a dime a dozen. My only concern is getting the stock output from a replacement. Though with all my LEDs, I have a lot more spare amps than the bike was intended to have... So perhaps a stator producing the standard amps for a KZ1000J engine isn't all that bad. I'd still like to be able to restore it back to stock specs though.

Ive replaced all my R/R with the sh775s And not looking back, the only people that knows is ME and my stator.

Without highjacking the op thread, I recently converted over to all LED’s. The only one I left incandescent is the gauge cluster brake lite. If I swapped it for LED it triggered the brake lite out function. I’ve even gone to electronic relays for the tun signals to stop hyper flash and the four ways to make everything work correctly. Have I created a problem for the stator and how would in know. It’s on my ‘78 kz1000 B2...

Dunno, Mikaw, maybe, maybe not... I found my problem though and it's NOT the LEDs... Take a gander at my alternator's rotor...







The magnets are FUBAR and it would explain the mystery of my intermittant rod knock... wasn't a rod knock at all, was the magnets smacking into the stator.

FML

Argh, that hurts. Old parts and glue gets brittle.......
How about your Stator condition?

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationThe stator doesn't look burnt, but I can't tell very well with all the oil covering it. The moment I saw the magnets, I decided to just take the photos, clean the the chunks out, and put the cover back on till I can find a new rotor.

I found some but I don't have the money for them right this second. Hoping to get a new rotor later this week.

I'm also hoping I can refurbish the current rotor, getting new magnets for it... but that's a project for much later. I don't have time to do the research and whatnot because I need to get the bike up and running hopefully within the next 2 weeks.

One of the rotors I found is an after market one, not used or NOS. It looks like the magnets are completely solid rather than individual. I don't think I trust it. It claims to be a direct replacement though.