TOPIC:

No warren that isn't what I was referring to. Glance back through the comments and look for the most unusual piece of test equipment that NOBODY owns. I was referring to a different comment, but if you want to self identify.. lol

Some of the comments get wayyyy over the top on some of these threads for sure. Also wayyyyyy over-complicated to say the least. My bike doesn't use points, nor does my truck, or even my lawn mower, and I haven't set points on anything in at least 20-30 years. When I did, I also preferred a dwell meter and timing light.

Kawasaki shows the "electro-tester" in the service manual for checking coil output among other tests. Anybody got one of these? I have used a function generator trigger and spark gap in the past, much like loudhvx posted a video of.
Pictures really ARE worth 1000 words.

Haha, that "electrotester" looks to be out the ark. Whats it supposed to be a primative multimeter.
Seriously though Charles I do believe it is worth you testing your dwell, I cant count the number of times guys in my club have thrown money and time at an issue and not really solved it when all they needed to do was set the timing correctly and set the dwell.
For the sake of a few dollars its got to be worthwhile.

Warren3200gt wrote: Haha, that "electrotester" looks to be out the ark. Whats it supposed to be a primative multimeter.
Seriously though Charles I do believe it is worth you testing your dwell, I cant count the number of times guys in my club have thrown money and time at an issue and not really solved it when all they needed to do was set the timing correctly and set the dwell.
For the sake of a few dollars its got to be worthwhile.

Good advice warren! Another thing to VERIFY is secondary coil impedance. Wires, caps, plugs etc. Very important stuff to keep the coil from arcing internally. Not that either of these items haven't been mentioned less than umm.. 20 times in this thread.

The electro-tester is in the Kaw service manual section 5 and has several uses in checking out the ignition system. It appears to be a pulse generator with a variable spark gap to measure the spark intensity in milimeters. 7mm is supposed to be the nominal gap it should arc. I just usually "rig up" stuff like that.

I thought the comment was referring to "stroboscope", which I assumed simply meant timing light, but who knows?

I did not ask if anyone tested anything with a bug zapper like in my video. I wouldn't expect them to need one. I need it because I test a lot of coils. I posted it to illustrate how coils can sometimes fail slowly.

Ok well Ill take a look at different things and report back what I find. Dyna kit will come Tuesday so hopefully by next week Ill be able to say how everything turns out.

loudhvx wrote: I thought the comment was referring to "stroboscope", which I assumed simply meant timing light, but who knows?

I did not ask if anyone tested anything with a bug zapper like in my video. I wouldn't expect them to need one. I need it because I test a lot of coils. I posted it to illustrate how coils can sometimes fail slowly.

More self identity? lol
I don't remember anyone else asking him to check a coil with a bug zapper either. I was comparing your coil tester video to the electrotester in the service manual. Like I said, I used my variable function generator to pulse grand national coil packs in the past. I could zing them up and see what rpm they would cut out at.

Not a timing light, although when you google it a strobe light pops up in the same results. This is a stroboscope. It is meant to find the rpm of rotating objects, and the strobe can be dialed up or down in frequency.


en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stroboscope

Charles 750B wrote: Ok well Ill take a look at different things and report back what I find. Dyna kit will come Tuesday so hopefully by next week Ill be able to say how everything turns out.

Do you have a link to the kit you bought. I still can't find a 750 twin version on the Dyna website.... only 750-fours. They do show a 1976 Kz750-four, but there was no 750 four in 1976 in the U.S.

Its the kit for KZ750 four, but I read that many people just take one of the magnets off the plate to turn it into a twin setup. Ill have to use my original plate most likely but that shouldn't be a problem. If it doesn't work then I will send it back. For the four, it just uses another magnet, and there's only one advancer magnet so it seems like a possible solution. Ill get it tomorrow and let you know how it goes after a few hundred hopeful miles.

So far "tinkering and being a shade tree mechanic" has gotten me over thousands of miles of land (rebuilt transmissions with hammers instead of presses) so I operate on a test fail level. If it works, so it does .

If I had expendable income I would do everything the "right" way, but until then, I do alot of praying...

I was just checking. I don't know why they don't make a kit for the twins. It would work on the millions of 750 /400/440 twins out there... seems like a no-brainer.

The inline-four should be able to work pretty easily as others have done it successfully. The black things on the plate are usually referred to as pickups. They contain a Hall-effect sensor and most likely an IGBT ignition coil driver, so they are more than just a pickup. Each one is essentially a self-contained ignition system.

So the good news is, you will actually have two. You could mount one to your original points plate, and maybe re-shape the Dyna S plate to make another one. The rotor is just a single magnet, like you said. It triggers the Hall-effect sensor once per revolution just like the points did.

The only remaining thing to figure out is where to locate the pickup on the timing plate. That's going to take some playing around to get just right. One trick you can do is wire a light bulb in place of the coil. When the light is on, the coil would be charging. When the rotor lines up so the light just turns off, that is when the spark would fire.

When it's all together, make sure to not leave the ignition turned on with the crank not rotating. It can overheat the coil.

Great Video to explain what going on beneath us as we ride along . Great when it's all working correctly ,too.
If I could just see it , it would make it so much easier . I have had both style of systems over the years ,both can give you problems - it's being able to trouble shoot these on the side of the road !
Love this forum,guys - keep up spreading this invaluable knowledge !

Ok so the Dyna ei. got the bike running way better than the points ever did, but now the main fuse blows. I know this is good since the blowing fuse is letting me know somethings wrong without hurting stuff. Everything is fine until I flip the kill switch to run. Then neutral indicator goes way dark and fuse blows.

Any ideas?

Looks like a hidden current drop/bad connector or short to ground/negative in the ignitinon wiring.
Try to feet the igniton power temporariy directly only from the battery (with 10 A fuse) and disconnected the yellow/red igniton power wire from the main wiring harness.