TOPIC:

There was a dedicated interlock wire. It would kill the ignition if, for example, the kickstand was down while in gear. That could be why the ignition is dead. I will try to find a diagram I drew up years ago for the 550 version of the same ignition.
Here it is:
www.kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/59590...n-and-ignitor-wiring

As you can see, on the 550, the interlock line is a brown/white wire. It goes to pin 3 on the module.
If the black/white wire you have disconnected goes to pin 3, then there is a good chance that wire needs to be grounded. I think I would initially ground it through a 1000 ohm resistor to see if that works. That will have less chance of frying something.

Something happened to this thread. I was replying to a new topic, which has now disappeared.

I was wondering what happened here.
Steve

Absolute legend, i found your old thread yesterday after 4hrs of searching through the internet. Got home, grounded the wire and hay presto i now have spark. Saved me a hefty bill at a mechanics so am truly greatful. This forum rocks.

MJA wrote: Absolute legend, i found your old thread yesterday after 4hrs of searching through the internet. Got home, grounded the wire and hay presto i now have spark. Saved me a hefty bill at a mechanics so am truly greatful. This forum rocks.

Yes, he gives some of the best advice on this forum. Now getting the readers to actually take anyone's actual advice would be an entire thread in it's self. lol

As far as electrical / electronics advice, when I was in college working towards my AOSEE degree, my fav instructor used to drill into our heads about electrical stuff..

He would say.. "well, ya gotta have a goez-inta AND a goez-outa to make something work" . Meaning you needed a feed AND a return path for all of those pesky electrons to be able to produce a difference in potential. (voltage)

Some good advice I use almost daily .

He also drilled into my head the proper spelling for circuit.. for some reason I used to miss-spell circut on almost every assignment i handed in. Trivial stuff, but it drove HIM crazy.

Write then guys, i got home tidied the wiring up, put the tank on, fuel in and hit the start button.............. 10 min later she's fired up and with a bit of tlc and choke management she purrs away at 12-1300 rpm. However i now have two lights that i am unsure of.

1. Oil light on new clock and on tank is on all the time. Does the Unitrack have oil pressure switch and an oil level switch. On my Haynes manual it seems to only show oil level switch on a blue/red switching to earth. i connected this to one side of the lamp and an ignition live to the other assuming that if the oil level was low it would make the contact delivering the earth side to the lamp and turning it on but this does not seem to be the case.

2. Battery warning light, now this wire used to go to the middle cell on my old lead acid battery but i now have a solid state anti gravity battery which obviously doesn't have this function. If i put this to 12v ignition then the light goes off can anyone tell me if the light will ever come back on ie. if the battery voltage drops or does it not work in this way?

Again guys any help will be greatly appreciated.

As far as I know, there is only an oil level switch.
The diagram on the 550 version shows the oil level switch working as you described, but it's not clear if the switch is directly providing a ground for a light bulb, or for some circuit. I'm not sure if it's meant to flash or not. If so, then it's feeding a circuit.

The battery warning light sensor wire is just looking for continuity to electrolyte. It does this by roughly detecting any significant voltage. You can just connect it to a switched 12v source. That will render it bypassed. It is only meant to detect electrolyte, so if you are using a sealed battery, it won't be of any use to you. It is not sensing the condition of the battery, other than electrolyte level. (Kz's were known for losing electrolyte, especially in summer, as the charge voltage was maybe a bit high. )

@loudvhx Sorry mate have been away for a week, I got back on Saturday and had another look at bike. I can't really see how the oil level light works at the min so am leaving it as i have an oil viewing window and plenty of oil. As for the wire to the battery i have put that to ignition live so as you say will render it useless.
Slowly but surely it is coming together, I now need to get it ready for it's MOT.
Great platform guys and great help, really appreciate it.

Massive thank you to all you guys and the help given, bike is now MOT'd and on the road

That's great! Thanks for the update.