TOPIC:

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationThe jury is still out on this one, but considering it was only ~27 bucks, not a whole lot to lose on it. I did mention that I ordered this a few weeks ago, but didn't really see any feedback, and since it was already ordered, it really wouldn't have mattered much.



I installed this stator ~a week ago, and also added in a relay feeding off of a 10 amp fuse holder on the start solenoid to a ice cube relay that sits nicely between the rows of harness plugs under the left side cover. I used the original brown ignition / voltage sense wire to trigger the relay. I feel this mod is probably more important than the ignition relay as far as needing full battery voltage, to prevent from overheating the stator while overcharging the battery. This in turn could overload the stator circuit and more than likely caused the stator to short out.
The voltage on my brown / sense wire was almost right at `1 volt down from the actual battery voltage measured at the battery posts. This in turn caused my regulator to think my battery was low, then output over 15 volts (almost 16 VDC). I only happened to notice the overcharging, and hence the shorted stator because I had my bike running on the stand, and could smell the slight odor of the magic smoke beginning to be released from the yellow alternator phase wiring at the regulator plug. Upon closer inspection, I could feel the wires getting warm, and in turn after probing around with my digital meter, I found the shorted stator and low voltages on the brown wire.

Baked stator. They get hot, and the winding's melt through the plastic and short out on the laminated core.



Side by side on my kitchen sink counter, sometimes refered to as my work bench, since it has the best ambient light ~10 am for highly technical schtuff like this.



And lastly a faded pic (taken in the sun light) of my ice-cube relay voltage regulator mod. It lays nicely between the rows of harness plugs. The pins are readily available at Gateway Electronics in Saint Louis Missouri. (shameless plug for Gateway.. I have known them for ~30 years.)

Are they rewound around original Kz stator cores? I ask because the ebay ad photo does not look like a brand new unit.

Also, why does the old burned-up one look like it's a much larger diameter than the new green one? If the new one is a smaller diameter, it will be much less effective since the magnets will be farther away from the stator pole pieces.

loudhvx wrote: Are they rewound around original Kz stator cores? I ask because the ebay ad photo does not look like a brand new unit.

Also, why does the old burned-up one look like it's a much larger diameter than the new green one? If the new one is a smaller diameter, it will be much less effective since the magnets will be farther away from the stator pole pieces.

It looked to be all new materials. I didn't use my calipers on it., but it did look identical. Any appearance of a different diameter would have to be from the camera angle. The stock stator was slightly over 4 1/8 ".
What I was wondering was if the plastic was made of a high temp plastic compuund, to be able to resist the coils overheating. It can't possible short any worse than the original stator.
I did have a small prolem with the clip that holds the wires away from the rotor not being seated completely into the cover and it was scraping slightly when I started the bike. no biggie, but a PITA after putting it all back together.

Looks good from the pics. I bought Caltric brakes for an atv and they seem to work for cheap. Think it was $10 for front n rear.

I bought a Caltric regulator/rectifier and it shorted within a week. It fried my new stator I bought from z1partsinc.net a year before. I bought a REAL Mosfet R/R used and bought another one as back up. I'm now looking for a stator using heavier gauge wire and have my eye on a aftermarket rotor from the UK. $300 plus shipping,,,, OUCH.
Steve

SWest wrote: I bought a Caltric regulator/rectifier and it shorted within a week. It fried my new stator I bought from z1partsinc.net a year before. I bought a REAL Mosfet R/R used and bought another one as back up. I'm now looking for a stator using heavier gauge wire and have my eye on a aftermarket rotor from the UK. $300 plus shipping,,,, OUCH.
Steve[/quote

Ouch! A $10.00 R/R that fried a $140.00 stator would hurt! I think my fried OEM stator was due to low voltage on the brown sense wire. When I checked the voltages at the battery after noticing the yellow wires overheating the sense circuit was over 1 volt lower than actual battery voltage measured at the battery posts.

I did not ride it until after I had tried to find / repair the cause of the low voltage. (disassembled / cleaned the ignition switch and cleaned / soldered up the fuse block and associated connections). No matter what I cleaned up, the sense voltage was still low, Sooooooo relay time! Too many connections / plugs all over the place to drop voltage. A little here, a little there, voltage drops everywhere.

My ignition switch contacts.. AND I broke off a plastic tab in the process.

If a wire overheats the resistance goes up.
Steve

SWest wrote: If a wire overheats the resistance goes up.
Steve

Good point Steve!

As mentioned in this article about a 120 VAC electric toaster or space heater is that the current limiting factor, (besides the selector switch) is the wire it's self. I cleaned up as much as I could in the plugs and bullet connectors, but short of rewiring the bike, or at least the yellow stator wiring, it is charging ok enough to maintain the battery charge, and hence limiting the overcharging .

physics.stackexchange.com/questions/3167...e-if-it-is-heated-up

Considering that during my ptsd therapy , the revs are sustained, and probably average a l tad over legal limits, so the need to increase the sense voltage is even more important in order to reduce the overcharging.

SWest wrote: I bought a Caltric regulator/rectifier and it shorted within a week. It fried my new stator I bought from z1partsinc.net a year before. I bought a REAL Mosfet R/R used and bought another one as back up. I'm now looking for a stator using heavier gauge wire and have my eye on a aftermarket rotor from the UK. $300 plus shipping,,,, OUCH.
Steve

Tell me about the aftermarket rotor and if you found a stator with heavier windings Steve.

I had to remove my rotor a year or two ago to reattach my starter clutch , and could not get it off to save my butt using the bolt puller / air impact. I ended up heating the hub with a torch THEN hitting the bolt really hard (I cringe at the idea of beating on the end of that pressed together crankshaft) , but in the process, a piece of the magnet broke off from the torch heat. duh! Story of my life.

I used JB Weld to put the magnet back together, and it looks to be holding up well, but I would still like to replace the rotor with an unmolested one. I saw one for cheap on eBay a year or two ago, but then could not find it again to order it. (was not sure if it would fit)

It still looks this good and no more material has broken off the magnet.



The number on the back is the one that indicates the right rotor.. I think. ??