TOPIC:

Hi,

I have some start and running problem with my engine and have troubleshooted for issues.
Today I tested the coil, but results was confusing.

Engine: 750-H Ltd 81

1.
checked resistant between + and - in the primary side, results was:
2,5 ohm (A-B see attachment)
4,7 ohm (E-F see attachment)

It should be between 3 and 5 ?

2.
I checked the resistant between the spark plug and +/- cables. I got infinity on all four here....
I measured A-C, A-D, B-C and B-D on coil1 and on coil2 F-H, F-G, E-H and E-G....

I should have around 1M ohm here ?

Have I done something wrong?

I have a topic where I have collected everything I have done together, but wanted to ask for a specific help when it comes to coil here.
kzrider.com/forum/3-carburetor/605427-he...-engine-vm2?start=20

Thank you.

Did you check the H/T wires without the caps?
Steve

I would replace the coils & install a new spark plug wire set w new caps.
My coils tested fine cold, but there was a high speed miss & they were getting very hot to the touch. warm is okay. not hot.
So I installed green Dyna 3.0 ohm coils & Dyna plug wire set from Z1Enterprises.com. The grey 2.2 coils are a better match for the Kawasaki electronic ignition, but the green are used with the Dyna S ignition system. in case the other stuff should happen to fail.

loudhvx has mentioned these.
KAWASAKI Ignition Coil NEW KZ550 KZ750

A - B is an electronic ignition coil. 2.7 ohms is about right for a 35 year old coil.
E - F is a points coil. 4.7 is a bit high, but not super high. 4.0 to 4.3 is about normal.

So you have a mismatched pair. Either way, if they are original 35+ years old, ditch them, (as Martin suggests).
I assume the '81 bikes came with electronic, so you can use the coils Martin posted.

If you have a Dyna S ignition, you will need 3 ohm or higher coils (just repeating Martin on everything today ).

Make sure what ignition you have before getting new coils. That other topic you have does not show the electronic ignition igniter. You posted a picture of the regulator/rectifier. The IC ignitier would be on the other side of the bike.

If you can, post a picture of what you have under the points/ignition cover. That will tell us what you have. Also, a photo of the right side, under the side cover, might help too.

I didn't read the entire thread, but I did see where you posted the resistance of the ignition pickups. That would suggest you have a factory electronic ignition. But then the points coil doesn't make sense. Someone's definitely been playing Kz-parts-roulette.

Once you have some good coils, you can test components by swapping parts. With an inline four motor, you basically have two ignition systems, so swapping a few wires around lets you determine which parts are bad, as long as you can determine which cylinders are working. The spray water test on the exhaust is a good check for that if the spark is totally dead on that(those) cylinder(s).

Thank you all for your inputs, I will drive to my garage tomorrow and take out the IC ignitier and take some photos.
If everything goes after plan will I post pictures tomorrow evening Norwegian time

Another thing, how powerful shall the spark be ? I was not impressed when I tested the spark on all four, but it was some spark...
Do you have a good example video or something? I can see people are saying the spark shall be blue? I don`t think I saw a blue light...

Plan further will properly be to replace the coils and the cables + plus and the spark plugs (they are new, but I have tested alot with them).

In direct sunlight, you might not see spark, but you should hear it.
In shade on a sunny day, it might appear weak and reddish.
At night, or in any dark setting it will appear blue/white.

Video and photos can exaggerate the brightness and intensity.

This photo shows a good spark, but it is much brighter than what you would see in person. In direct sunlight, you probably would not see it at all.

gordone wrote: .....................
Another thing, how powerful shall the spark be ?......................

This is easy to test. Have your wife hold the spark plug cap with one hand and have her other hand on the engine, then try to start the bike. If your wife jumps and says "hey, that wasn't funny" you have a weak spark. If she screams profanities and immediately files for divorce you have a healthy spark. Ed

A good way to see if plug wires are bad (after seeing a spark come off one is gab a hold) jumped so bad I'm surprised I didn't drop it doing about 30..... sure enough when I got home I found a little split in it.

Please see attached photo I have now taken photo of the IC ignition, I assume I shall use 2.2 Ohm grey coils?

Coils:
www.z1enterprises.com/dyna-dual-output-2...oils-pair-dc4-1.html
Correct?

Cabels and plugs:
www.z1enterprises.com/dyna-dual-output-2...oils-pair-dc4-1.html
They have four different....
Dyna Ignition Wires 7mm Suppression Core
Dyna Ignition Wires 7mm copper core (black)
Dyna Ignition Wires 8mm suppression core
Dyna Ignition Wires 7mm copper core (red)
What shall I choice? Up to me how they look likes, they have same function and performance?

IC ignition:
I was thinking, I don`t know if my IC ignition working correct, maybe I shall by new IC ignition, coils, spark plug cables and plugs...?
Can I test it? If I`m buying new IC ignition, must I go for Dyna S ignition system?
Just some ideas... So I don`t spending a lot of money on coils and ending up buying new IC ignition, and have to purchase new coils one more time...?

It really depends on the pickups. The igniter can be made pretty cheaply and there are usually some available on ebay.

But if you are on the fence, and might not want to do all the troubleshooting on the factory system, then I recommend you get 3-ohm coils. They will work with both systems, even if they are not perfect, they should work fine. I use 3-ohm Accel coils with the factory system and it works just fine as long as you don't gap the plugs super wide or go to a super high compression motor. The accel 3-ohm coils are pretty similar to the Dyna green 3-ohm coils.

Then if you think the factory system is faulty and just want to go plug-and-play with a Dyna S, you will already have the correct coils.

I can see there are many IC igniter on ebay, as you say... What do I loose by using 3-ohm instead of 2-ohm, loosing hours power?
I don`t have any plans to rebuild the engine to high compression, and now its a original 750CC, but the previous owner had done something with the top he said.

What do you mean "don't gap the plugs super wide", I don`t understand the English expression...

I`m not sure what todo... If I havent any problem by using 3-ohm instead of 2-ohm? I don`t see any reason to not use 3-ohm,
in the other way, it looks like I can purchase a used IC igniter on ebay if the bike still not goes okay with new coils and cabels...
But it would be good to get a new IC igniter also... the old one on ebay.. is not getting younger...

I`m planning to have the bike for a long time so... if 3-ohm dosen`t gonne make any problem for me, I think it`s the best option for me,
and then can I upgrade the rest of the ignition system to brand new later if I want or need... agree?

Purchase:
www.z1enterprises.com/dyna-dual-output-3...oils-pair-dc1-1.html
www.z1enterprises.com/dyna-ignition-wire...pper-core-black.html
www.z1enterprises.com/dyna-spark-plug-wire-crimping-tool.html

Agree?

The cables I`m not sure on they have so many different types...
Dyna Ignition Wires 7mm copper core (black), Dyna Ignition Wires 7mm copper core (red), Dyna Ignition Wires 7mm Suppression Core and Dyna Ignition Wires 8mm suppression core.

I have now ordered:

Dyna Dual Output 3.0 Ohm Coils (pair) DC1-1
Dyna Ignition Wires 7mm copper core (black)
Dyna Spark Plug Wire Crimping Tool


These will super interesting, if the bike start now and run normal...