TOPIC:

Today have I installed the new coils and the spark plug cables. These upgrade was not solving my problem, engine will not start...
I can hear sometimes it try to start at least one cylinder starting?.. but never start up and going... And it comes smells from the exhaust (loud) and sometimes from the pod filter on the carbs... when I ty to start and the start engine has runned for 5-6 seconds, giving some information what happens?

VIdeo:
temp.dynamitt.net/div/MC/IMG_4265.MOV

The "funny" thing is that when I bought the bike I never had problem to start the engine, the problem was it was not going okay on higher RPM I was missing torque... and I rebuild the carbs and rejettet, adjusted the valve without any success, and then suddenly on one test drive it was working perfect... and then next day back to "standard" problem missing torque... I think I was only going on 2 or 3 cylinders, when these problem arise? I have maybe has 5-6 test drive and it`s only one time the bike has runned fine.

But when I tried to find a problem with the bad electrical connection I was disconnecting one coil and tried to start etc to see if I had same symptom etc.. I have now learn I can use water on the cylinder to see what is running, but diffident know it then... and after these I have problem to start the engine atall, before these electrical troubleshooting it was almost stating easy and running fine on idle.

I`m afraid I have damage something ?

Can it be I have damage the IC ignitor? or maybe I have a broken wirer now and before it was only bad... ?

Plan further:
1. By 4 new spark plugs, they are cheap so I will be good just to make sure the spark plug is not the issue?
2. Test the IC iginitor the way explained earlier in these post? How do you connect the cable to the coil? can I just remove alot of isolation on the cable and push a lot of un isolated cable in the whole in the coil ?

Thank you for help in these matter, I have now used long time to get the engine running properly, hopefully will I be there

The spark plug wires are not correct.
One coil should be hooked up to cylinders 1 and 4. The other one should be hooked up to cylinders 2 and 3.
In the pictures, I see the left coil (picture 1) is connected to 1 and 3. The right coil (picture 2) is connected to 2 and 4.

Two questions. Is it possible you have the leads reversed. Will 3 OHM coils burn out the igniter?
Steve

TexasKZ wrote: The spark plug wires are not correct.
One coil should be hooked up to cylinders 1 and 4. The other one should be hooked up to cylinders 2 and 3.
In the pictures, I see the left coil (picture 1) is connected to 1 and 3. The right coil (picture 2) is connected to 2 and 4.

Good eye. You may be right. Beggs the second question, will the 3 OHM coils work with the igniter?
Steve

SWest wrote:

TexasKZ wrote: The spark plug wires are not correct.
One coil should be hooked up to cylinders 1 and 4. The other one should be hooked up to cylinders 2 and 3.
In the pictures, I see the left coil (picture 1) is connected to 1 and 3. The right coil (picture 2) is connected to 2 and 4.

Good eye. You may be right. Beggs the second question, will the 3 OHM coils work with the igniter?
Steve

I am certainly no electrical expert, though I do know that before you try to stradle an electric fence, you should be dang sure your legs are long enough
As I recall, the factory coil specs were 2.3 to 2.8. If that is correct, then a 3.0 should not be too much of a stretch.
I also wonder about the primary wiring to the coils. It is fairly easy to get it backwards.

As TexasKZ pointed out, you have the coils wired wrong.

On the smaller engines, including the 750:
The right hand coil, as you sit on the bike, should get the small black wire and that coil fires cylinders 1 and 4.
The left hand coil, as you sit on the bike, should get the small green wire and that coil fires cylinders 2 and 3.

As you sit on the bike the cylinders 1,2,3,4 from left to right.

The ignition rotor can also be backward, so you should check that as well (otherwise proper wiring won't work).

Here is how the rotor should be:
When cylinders 1 and 4 are at top-dead-center, the pointer of the ignition rotor should point backward toward the pickup with the black and blue wires.
When cylinders 2 and 3 are at top-dead-center, the pointer of the ignition rotor should point forward toward the pickup with the red and yellow wires.
(The pointer won't be at the center of the pickups, but just in the general direction. The pointer will be closer to the center of the pickups when the F mark lines up, but that is not TDC.)

The 3 ohm coils should work fine with the stock ignition as long as the motor internals are stock and in good condition, and the spark plug gaps are normal.

Thank you all,

I will take a look at these after work today, I don`t think the wiring is original, see attached photos.

To be 100% sure wiring to the coils is correct, can I use the IC ignintor test, to see what coil firing when I active the sensor rotor sensor for 1-4 and 2-3 ?

The problem now will be that the cables are to short, so hopefully will I be able to use them for test by having the coils loose.

Can I use something like these for testing (then I will be able to get one local in my town): ???
www.mekonomen.no/bil/reservedeler/tennpl...-syl-1-ps24a19-R01no

For bench testing, you don't need special wire. Any copper wire will work. Just make sure there is a complete path, as shown in the drawing I posted.

If you're lucky, there might be enough wire to still reach. Is it possible to mount the coils with wires pointing down? Maybe not.

loudhvx wrote: If you're lucky, there might be enough wire to still reach. Is it possible to mount the coils with wires pointing down? Maybe not.

I've always mounted my DynaCoils 180 degrees from the pictures posted. It looks close to the engine but I've always found it's even closer to the underside of the tank
The spark plug wires should still work, they will just have to be relocated between plugs/coils, based on the info given. I don't think any of them should be too short to use in the shortest hook-up

I want to thank you all for your inputs for helping me out.

Yesterday:
1. I replaced all spark plugs with new one, please see attached photo, the seller told me they was the same as the old one?
2. I re routed the spark plugs cables, all was long enough!
3, I tried to start, and the motor started without any problem and was going nice on idle...
4. After a while I tested to take water on the exhaust on each cylinder, and all was really hoot accept for cylinder 1.
5. I took out the spark plug and the plug was dry....
6. I have properly not tuned the carbs correct after the rebuild, I adjusted all pilot screws back to start point according to a manual I have found.
7. Still the cylinder was not starting, I open up the VM29 and adjusted the height of the cylinder and then it started to running on all 4 cylinders...

So now is going on all cylinders and I took a test drive and it feels okay, I think I have solve the problem now... maybe the main problem
has been incorrect settings on the carbs, but properly has it also helped with replacing the coils, I think that will be good long term solution anyway since they was old?

Coil position, you are correct, the cables are touching the tank, so I will turn them 180 degree on a later stage.

I have had one more observation also, on the same cylinder who was not running gas come out from the overfilling outlet some times,
so I was thinking something was wrong with the level in the bowl was wrong or something, but after I have got the cylinder 1 to running it has not come more gas out... hehe strange... I have earlier adjusted the height to be correct.

Next week will I hopefully get my driver license and I will take the bike on a longer tour to check how stable it`s, see if runs fine for 1-2 hours without any problem with the force... one cylinder stop working etc...

But I need to tune the carbs and synchronize them... to get it run even better ...?
1. finding the correct position on the mix screw, I found it hard, the RPM is not changing much if I turn on these screw.... the tuning procedure say you shall turn until the RPM stop increasing and then screw it some back... but I found it hard...
2. Carb sync, I have a cheap tool from ebay, I think it cheating me... ? But when you doing these work, I see people saying that the valve on the gauge is not important as longs they are equal, is that correct ?

Thank you all.

I will keep you all posted, nothing much will happens before mid next week.

Glad to hear it is running and the wires were still long enough.

So it seems you might have a carb issue on number 1. Welcome to the world of old bikes .
I'm sure you will get it figured out. Good luck on the license. .

Hello, I'm rebuilding a 1982 Kawasaki KZ1000J1 and am having starting issues. Will your above diagram work for my bike ? Also when you say "just tap the pick-up coils, what are you referring to ? Tap with what lol. Thanks for your help. My New Years resolution is to hear this engine at least POP. Carbs rebuilt, engine rebuilt valves set but spark seems weak and I don't seem to be getting fuel to the cylinders although the levels are good and floats are working well. I'm more mechanical than electrical but can read a meter. The shop manual calls for a "Kawasaki Electrotester" lol but I'm sure there is a more modern way to test things and this is a budget build. Bike last ran great in 1997 lol. Thanks again and Happy Holidays. Jon, Little River SC