80 KZ1000E - no spark on #3 and #4
- rrsmsw9999
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80 KZ1000E - no spark on #3 and #4
24 May 2016 04:45
Hello all,
I have no spark on #3 and on #4. Doesn't make much sense to me as coils are hooked 1 4, black and pink on left and 2 3 green and pink on right. Plugs are clean and gapped, but they are the old plugs. They look fine. As I remove spark plugs while running 1 and 2 affect the idle. #3 and #4 had no spark and no effect when removed.
It will back fire every once in while and I assume that is gas collecting in number three or four to hot enough to pop. I suppose I will test #3 and #4 wires for continuity. I replaced the spark wire but not the boots but all tested fine. The #3 and #4 pipes are far less hot and water does not instantly evaporate.
What order should I do things? Can a coil lose one output and not both? Could both coils lose one output? Perhaps IC ignitor or rectifier? Any help appreciated.
R
1980 KZ 1000E2
I have no spark on #3 and on #4. Doesn't make much sense to me as coils are hooked 1 4, black and pink on left and 2 3 green and pink on right. Plugs are clean and gapped, but they are the old plugs. They look fine. As I remove spark plugs while running 1 and 2 affect the idle. #3 and #4 had no spark and no effect when removed.
It will back fire every once in while and I assume that is gas collecting in number three or four to hot enough to pop. I suppose I will test #3 and #4 wires for continuity. I replaced the spark wire but not the boots but all tested fine. The #3 and #4 pipes are far less hot and water does not instantly evaporate.
What order should I do things? Can a coil lose one output and not both? Could both coils lose one output? Perhaps IC ignitor or rectifier? Any help appreciated.
R
1980 KZ 1000E2
1980 KZ 1000E2
Crashed 6/2016
1980 KZ550A
Sold 3/2016
Crashed 6/2016
1980 KZ550A
Sold 3/2016
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- 650ed
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Re: 80 KZ1000E - no spark on #3 and #4
24 May 2016 06:36
One way to test the caps and the wires coming out of the coils would be to swap the #1 and #4 wires so they are on opposite cylinders. If the dead cylinder switches from #4 to #1 there's very likely a problem with a spark plug wire or cap. If #4 is still the dead cylinder the caps and wires aren't the problem. Then try the same test by swapping the #2 and #3 wires to see if the dead cylinder moved from #3 to #2. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- SWest
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Re: 80 KZ1000E - no spark on #3 and #4
24 May 2016 07:03
Plugs and caps, they're old. If not bad they will be soon.
Steve
Steve
Z1b1000 1975 Z1b
kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/598262-kz-...-will-it-live#672882
kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/597654-poser?start=240#704229
kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/598262-kz-...-will-it-live#672882
kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/597654-poser?start=240#704229
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- MDZ1rider
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Re: 80 KZ1000E - no spark on #3 and #4
24 May 2016 09:06
Are you sure you have no spark on 3/4? Swapping plug wires as Ed suggested is one way to check. If you've got a timing light, try the pick-up on each plug wire. I had similar symptoms, cold 3/4 cylinders with occasional backfires. The spark checked good. Turned out to be a split hose in the Clean Air system to the reed valves in the cam shaft cover. They are divided between 1/2 and 3/4. It was sucking in so much air that the mixture was too lean to fire.
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Re: 80 KZ1000E - no spark on #3 and #4
24 May 2016 09:15
The clean air system is gone and properly blocked off. Will replace the 35 yo caps and plugs. 1st things 1st. R
1980 KZ 1000E2
Crashed 6/2016
1980 KZ550A
Sold 3/2016
Crashed 6/2016
1980 KZ550A
Sold 3/2016
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