TOPIC:

Stever - Try setting the timing with a timing light. Center the plate in back and use the two tiny socket head screws that mount 1/4 to reposition the pickup and not the plate itself. The 1/4 is often mis-aligned from the factory and you won't be able to get it timed using the slots in the backing plate. If you need Dyna Online support or Mr. Saunders, you had best call and not rely on email as both Dyna and Jeff seem to be swamped these days and slow on email.

WG has it right, its a combination of moving the moduels and the backing plate itself to get the timing set. I did that just to get it going, then using a timing light fine tuned it to get it just right. But as many people have said in this post and in others, the backing plate ended up all the way one way, and I was just able to get the timing set....

I still don't understand why DYNA wants you to set the timing with the advanced timing marks???? Why not set it using the "F" marks with the engine at idle, and then check with the timing light to see if the advanced marks line up when you rev the engine..Anybody have any ideas about this???

Maybe Dyna needs to be informed of this little problem and can fix it on future production...

I talked to a friend of mine who put a DYNA on his 77 suzuki GS 750 about 10 or 12 years ago and he had the same exact problem of running out of adjustment, he filed the slots slightly to get it right. So this is not a new problem it seems...

1045

I also had alot of trouble getting my timing right when I installed my dyna-s, must of tried every step at least a dozen times, moved the modules all over the place. Then finally put the backing plate dead-nutz center used the test light to set the 1/4 module, then the 2/3. Set the timing off the "F" mark and checked that it advanced correctly with a timing-light.
I don't know what I did differently the last time (at that point I couldn't keep straight all the stuff I'd done) but it worked. I wouldn't say its perfect, but I haven't had any problems and the bikes running pretty good (my carbs suck, but new ones are in the works).
The only other thing I did different that last time was try reversing my leads to the coils, I thought the PO had switched them when he installed some weird after-market ignition, but that only caused one BIG A$$ back-fire, so I switched them back.
I do think WG is right, try messing with the modules themselves and a test light.
I "Think" my magnet was SW, but I'm not sure.

Savedrider,
How are you doing with your ignition.
Here is an update on mine, the problem that I am having is that there is not enough adjustment on the modules for them to fire at 180 degrees to each other.
Today I took it all off again and checked that the marks on the advance mechanism were 180 degrees to each other which of course they were.
I then timed it up on the f marks with no advance. the only way I could get it to fire exactly on both f marks was with both modules dropped down so far that the top allen bolts were only just catching the slots. In that position I was able to start it up and check it on the strobe spot on both at idle and 2500 rpm full advance, but its not safe to use as is on the road cos the modules are not secure. The slots on the back plate were irrelavent there was no shortage of adjustement.
With it running I checked to ensure that there was no run out on the rotor.
so I was left with two choices one, drill and tap two holes lower down for the modules or get a new unit. I rang Jeff at Z1 and he is going to send me another unit today, he has never come across this problem. I did not want to drill and tap the plate because I think that there is aproblem in one of the modules for it to be like this. I will let you know how I get on.
Regarding the rotor which you need depends on whether you have the early advance mechanism this has the numbers very close together with two lines between them.If you have this one you need the 3A rotor.
The later advance is easy to identify if you look at it it will have Tec on it and 005 with a small arrow
if you have this advance you need the later rotor with 3 on it. i have pictures of both these if it will help.
The rotor will fit on only two ways, as long as with the 1/4 up the round magnet is to the left you are ok
hope this helps, let me know how you are getting on .
Keep the faith!
Regards Steve

Further to the above, looking back I see you have a 1975 Z1b , mine is a 1974 Z1a and has the later advance so I am sure you also have the later advance shown hopefully on attached pic.
With this you need the rotor marked 3 so I do not htink that you will sort it with the 3a rotor they are sending you.
The early advance which requires the 3a rotor was fitted to bikes with engine numbers before Z1F32818
regards Steve

Later Advance which needs rotor marked 3

Early advance which requires 3a rotor

I was in the same boat of not being able to find the room to adjust for the 2/3. I used WG's advice on loosening/setting the 1/4 module with the plate centered and then the 2/3 work fine.

My only additional questions is:

When doing static timing should the test light go off JUST as the advance mark is reached or is all that matters is that the light is lit when the mark is reached. Mine seems to go on just before the mark and goes off just adfter...kind of centered.

Thanks,
e
77 KZ1000

A couple of thoughts to ponder.... the stock advancers can be a problem. The stops behind the advancer weight will bend outwards over time when engines are pushed to the redline constantly. On many drag race engines, the racers build up those stops to keep the ignitions from over advancing. On some engines the problem is so bad full advance can be as far as 45 degrees. On most hot street bikes you only want to run around 35-38 degrees of advance. On my turbo bike, I only run 32 degrees of advance.

cam chains stretch... ...although this doesn't directly impact the ability to line up the marks, it does cause the cams to be slow coming around in relation to the crank. I've found on some older engines where the cam chains are well worn, the igntion timing sweet-spot is not where the factory says the ignition should be at... I will often set the igntion to the factory marks, then take the bike for a ride - I then play wth the retardation on the backplate to find the sweet spot - usually it is a few degrees off the factory mark.

Sorry for not replying to this thread as I have been out of town for a week or so on a long needed vacation.

The 3A advancer arrived today. I won't have a chance to fiddle with it until tomorrow. From the information Steve posted it looks like I do have the later advance unit (though mine doesn't have the 005 markings on it) so I'm not sure the 3A rotor will help.

I'm just going to try it with a timing light if I can't time statically - seems that is the ticket.

I will let you all know how I fare.

Thanks

stever - Did you get your new Dyna S unit installed? I really want to know if the new one fixed your trouble.

Savedrider,
sorry for delay replying,
I spoke to Jeff on Saturday and he was sending me another unit, I have not recd. it yet, but I am in England, soon as I receive it I will put it on and let you know.