TOPIC:

I have a question for an electrical guru. I was looking at Lou's site and Im not quite sure which of his setups would be the easiest to do. Ill be getting a new tail light with 2 bulbs, and I want to integrate the rear signals into it. I dont need/want the auto shut off, just the simple version. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thx
Scott

Post edited by: 77KZ650, at: 2006/05/09 10:03

It would not be hard at all to wire up.All you would need is the 2 light set-up with 1157 bulbs(duel filament) and 4 diodes.the diodes would be used to keep from back feeding power into the other circuit(brake light to turn signal or vise versa)

The problem with just using 4 diodes is that the brakes will stop the lights from flashing.

If you looked at my site, the 3-relay version (without IC chip) is the simplest to set up for the beginner. It doesn't have the auto shut-off feature. The small diodes on that version are to prevent arcing the relay contacts. They make it last longer but are not 100% needed.

You still need to replace the flasher with a fully electronic one like the Wagner 7060 I mention. That means you have to add one little ground wire to the flasher.

www.geocities.com/loudgpz/GPZturnSigInteg.html

Obviously, this circuit is showing the wiring for the 2-amp filament in the 1157 bulb. I did not show the wiring for the .5-amp tail light filament on each bulb. The tail light filaments are hooked up the conventional way. Each bulb is grounded as normal.




Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2006/05/09 11:50

OK, thanks, can you explain the diagram to me? I think I know some of the symbols, but not all of them, and the "no" "nc" and "com" has me confused too:unsure:

The diagram is three relays. Each relay has single diode attached to the coil to prevent arcing. Diodes have polarity. When you buy the diodes, you'll see a stripe on one end. That stripe is the line that the "arrow" in the symbol points to.

The relays can all be the same, but the two upper ones will only have one-pole used.
The lower one will use two poles. (A pole is the switch arrow going from "com" to "nc".)

I gave you some part numbers to check out at RadioShack.

"Com" means "common" contact.
"nc" means "normally closed" contact.
"no" means "normally open" contact.

Some relays use those abbreviations, some don't. Anything you get at RadioShack will probably have the abbreviations or a little pictorial diagram. The switch arrow is always pointed to the "normally" closed" contact.

I highlighted the individual relays.

.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2006/05/10 00:05

thank you, that helps a lot

so all I need is a flasher, 3 diodes, and 3 relays? the rest is just wiring right?

the easiest way is with a trailer adaptor from autozone 12$ when i get my home puter back online tomorrow ill post a diagram

btchalice wrote:

the easiest way is with a trailer adaptor from autozone 12$ when i get my home puter back online tomorrow ill post a diagram

Yeah, sorry, I was going to mention that you may be able to get these real cheap nowadays already made, and most likely solid-state, like the transistor version I have posted.

I designed that thing back when they were like $50 or $60. But for $12, the parts alone would cost more.

ah, pre-made and cheap, I like this plan of attack:P

the model i used was a 48845. it was less than 13$ at autozone. you will also need the 11$ electric flasher relay. its a transparent smoke plastic that handles the varying load. the stock one wont blink when you hit the brake. im still searching for the diagram

here is the diagram i had to find it in the archives where i posted it for gonehawkin. dont know if he ever got it done or not