diagram for BigBlockT

thanks on the coil tip, I also went to dyna's website and found that it does'nt matter for my application, but was stumped in the diagram as to the rec/reg wires you have 6 mine has only 5=(1)red,(1)black,(3)yellow and on the key switch shows (2)wires where mine shows (4)=blue,red,brown,white also my tail light is not stock so it only has a red,black wire is any of this serious?

The 1982 KZ1000 Regulator should have had a brown wire according to the diagram in the filebase. Perhaps your regulator is from something else or it's aftermarket?
At any rate, just ignore the brown wire in the diagram.

I drew in the four color wires in the last diagram. It doubles up on the contacts so the relay will be unnecessary.

If your tail light assembly only has two wires, what is it? Does it have a brake light? If it's a trailer light, one wire may be tail positive and the other will be brake positive and the metal frame would be ground. In that case run an extra wire to the tail light mounting screws to get a good ground. The bike frame doesn't make a very good ground.

the light is a universal lucas style tail light I bought years ago at the harly store as far as my regulator/rectifier I bought it off ebay and that was the year it was advertised as.

I hope the Lucas virus doesn't affect the rest of the bike! :laugh:

So if it has two filaments, one for tail and one for brake, then the frame of the light fixture must be the ground. Run a wire from the mounting screw of the light to the harness for ground. I can't say which wire is tail and which is brake, but you can figure it out by measuring the resistance from the wire to ground (with a bulb installed). The tail light wire will have higher resistance. Or you can just hook it up one way and see which wire is brighter when hooked up to the tail-light circuit. The brighter one will be the brake light wire.

I can't really call you from work, but I might get a chance some morning if you're around then.

I figured out the tail light, and was told that the rectifier was possible from kz1000-j not positive but was told to wire the red to the positive side of the solinoid and black to frame ground and the three yellow to the staiter hope all the wireing I've done according to the first diagram still works .

I have a 82 KZ1100 Spectre Shafty will that diagram work for it also?

wagonmaster69 wrote:

I have a 82 KZ1100 Spectre Shafty will that diagram work for it also?

Are you running a Dyna S?
The ignition switch colors are different according to the 82 1100 D1 on file, but I don't know if the D1 is the Spectre. I could draw one up, but I'd need to know exactly what model designation a Spectre is, and I'd need a diagram if we don't have one in the filebase.

Yes it is the D1 Spectre.
It has the stock ignition.
And to minimize the wiring I will get the Dyna S later if I need to.
And one more thing Lou YOUR THE MAN..

Cool, give me a couple days. I'm working on a few diagrams right now (If this threads drifts off, be sure to bump it back up in case I forget. ).

If the stock ignition is working, definitely stick with it.

Stock main fuses were 30 Amp on the Spectre, probably for extra lighting load. You can probably get away with 20 amp mains.

The stock diagram shows the reg/rec feeding the battery directly. I threw in an optional fuse, which is up to you if you want to use it.

And I showed the reg/rec feeding the positive side of the starter relay. This is to make the battery connections neater. The battery only needs one big positive wire and one big ground wire going to the engine. From that point on the engine you run a small ground jumper to the frame ground piont.

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Lou again YOUR THE MANB) I have an extra wiring harness and I going to cut a lot of crap off thanks again...
And how big of a ground and positive wire?

The wire gauge depends on what average current it runs. These are typically what I use, but are not really set in stone. Mostly I use 16ga, but with some 14 near the charging system and battery. The thin black lines are mostly 18 ga., but a few can be smaller, like the pickup wiring.