TOPIC:

I know I have posted this before but I still cant figure it out. I'm worried I got a defective one and I bought it about a year ago ;( and am just now putting all together.

I have hooked up my Dyna S and I'm trying to time it staticly. Ok from the beggining. There are three wires comming from the Dyna S one red, black, white. The red wire is soldered into the yellow/red hot wire to the coils. The white wire SHOULD correspond to the 1-4 plugs and be facing left. The black wire should be for 2-3 plugs and face right. However and I have checked the wires many times when I hook it up this way my timing light turns on at the 2-3 mark when testing for the 1-4 mark. So I switched them and viola a light comes on when it should. However the white wire thats is for the 1-4 coil is actually hooked to the 2-3 coil haha. As well I can only get the light to turn on for one of the coils not both when testing them WHY? I'm so mad and confused HELP

In the event this thing is a dud I bought it from Z-1 Enterprises last May-June can I get any help?

Oh here is a pic of it semi completed.

I put a dyna on the 650, it was backwards also, took a bit to figure it out, its no big deal just change the wires around it will work just fine

so the 1-4 pickup is on the right then? What about it not lighting up when testing the 2-3 coil

I have Dyna S sitting here in the box that I've yet to install. According to the instructions, the magnet in the rotor must be facing left when the 1/4 side of the advance mechanism is pointing up. Looking at the Dyna unit, the white wire (which has the black band at the bullet connector end signifying the color of wire it mates to) goes to the left pickup for the 1/4 coil typically mounted on the right side of the frame. Meanwhile the black wire with the green band goes to the right pickup and to the 2/3 coil. If the magnet is positioned correctly, the left pickup should be connected to the 1/4 coil.

As for the timing light not flashing on 2/3, is the coil good (I assume they're the stock coils)? Measure the resistance of both the primary and secondary windings. The primary should be 4 ohms, and the secondary 15,000 ohms with the plug caps removed. Both readings can be plus or minus 10 percent.

Measure the plug caps as well, if they are the stock units. Measure from the screw tip that goes into the wire to the part that snaps over the sparkplug terminal. The reading should be 5000 ohms with a 10 percent tolerance high or low. If one or both of the caps are open (infinity reading--same as the leads not touching) the spark will probably be very weak or nonexistent.

It's tough to do, but keep plugging along.

The coils are brand new as well I did the whole dyna upgrade

Check the website for any updated info .
Dynaonline.com

I run a 2000 not an S , so I dont know offhand.

You're going to hate me for this, but I put my Dyna S on my '79 SR this afternoon. I followed the instructions carefully and to the letter and it started right away and was only a degree or two off.

The critical part was holding the rotor fully clockwise while turning the crankshaft and monitoring the voltmeter during the initial static timing (the suggested test light would have worked much better, I think). Not easy to do with my larger fingers and the small space available!

The bike runs great, not that it ran poorly before. I do think the Dyna helped the lower RPM running. Looking at the timing marks with the light, they are rock solid. For future reference this bike has Accel 3 ohm coils.

Same here NONB, held the rotor and used a test light, did not even have to adjust at all. Never checked with a timing light as the bike now starts and runs awsome! BTW, WG talked about the wiring being backwards in an earlier post.

I put on like 10 dyna-s over the years on KZs and every one was dang perfect. Just my experience, but I never had an incling of a problem with them

My question is, why do they have you set the timing at full advance? What difference would it make if you set it at the normal base timing? It is still using the centrifugal advance as if you still had points. I don't think there is any electronic advance like Boyer uses is there?

I saw and commented in that thread, Blue, and mine is correct. I must have caught own outside the bad lot run.

Last year there was someone who posted a long a sordid story that turned out to actually be bad pickups. It seems he couldn't time it.

Until yesterday I hadn't even taken an advancer apart and now I've done two! When I get back to the 650B3 project, I think a Dyna is going on it without a second thought.

I can't speak for them, but after thinking about it, you can't do it the "normal" way or it won't work as it's the opposite of the points. I suppose someone brave could try it and report back!

I wonder if that isn't the source of some problems as I only caught that detail (time at full advance) by carefully reading the instructions. It's easy to miss if a person just skims through and ASSumes.