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So I did my bike a favour tonight, and installed the WG coil mod.

Oh my god am I ever happy I did.. what a change! No more backfiring on decelleration, more pep on the twist of my wrist..so much more responsive on start and a better idle, from what I can tell. I haven't had her out for a good ride yet - just around the block, but from what I could tell, it's at least 100% better.

I made a personal change to the way george's mod is done..though it might not be original. I wired up a 2 wire 'harness' from the relay to the headlight bucket, and spliced the trigger and power wires into the stock harness just after the stock connector. I used two female and two male connectors, so that if I wanted to disconnect it, I could just connect the female to male on the stock wires again. It made it quite easy to do.

I'll take a picture if people are curious about it.

THANKS WG!!

I still need to do the coil mod myself (NOT an electrician) After installing the Andrews coils and the Dyna S it starts and runs so good I figured I didn't need to do it. However, I realize that it could only get even better if I did it, especially after you said it got rid of the backfiring on deacceleration. My bike does that but figured it was because my air injection is gone. One last thing (finally ) the mod you made to WG's mod accomplishes what? Thanks

Where is the original instructions for soing the coil mod? I've been looking for it and can't find it. I looked in the filebase too. Maybe I'm overlooking it, but it has been doing a fantastic job of avoiding me. Where's it at?

Never mind. You guys are too slow. I found the link in another topic. Thought it was on here...no wonder I couldn't find it. Duh!!!

yep getting the hi resistance out of the coil power circut really has a positive effect on the running condition in these bikes. there are so many people chasing carb problems that are really electric or a lack there of... ha!! good luck!

The 'mod' I made to WG's instructions are that I routed a wire from the relay into the headlight bucket and connected it to the trigger wire just after the stock connector up there, instead of finding where it came out of the bucket and split into two to go to the coils.

This way I don't have to worry about taking my harness apart, since the wires are fully accessible in the bucket - even if it was only around 3" of free wire.

I used 2 male and 2 female connectors, and put one male and one female on the stock wires, so that I could remove the mod in the future (don't know why I'd want to though!), and go back to using the stock wiring. Everything else is just an 'add-on', so it's the only change I would have to make.

It essentially goes:

Trigger from switch gear (female connector) to a new wire to the relay with a male connector. From the relay back to the headlight bucket with a female connector which connects to the other side of the cut stock wire with a male connector.

Makes sense?

Oh - and don't use the filebase instructions. Go directly to WG's website for the most up-to-date version. There were changes that I noticed when I compared the two, so it's good I did.

I'll add some pictures tonight!

Post edited by: pyxen, at: 2007/04/12 09:00

Hey pyxen, Glad you had luck with the mod.

Did you happen to measure your voltage at the coil before you did the mod? I was trying to figure out if it was worth doing when I only have 1 volt drop (15 to 14) between the battery and the coil.

I measured a while back.. was in the 12s or 13s if I remember correctly. I didn't measure yesterday though.

Even a 1 volt drop is enough to affect performance somewhat. If you're concerned with the way your bike is running, then do it! $20 gets you everything you need, so there's not much expense to it. It's really pretty simple once you figure out which wires to cut.

I had a lot of trouble starting my bike, and this has definitely given it a boost.. pun intended.

www.wgcarbs.com/index.php?option=com_con...view&id=12&Itemid=26